JP1 header tips for RS 2138 Kameleon

[catatonic]

Hello guys, you got yourself a newbie here :p

Well, I built my first JP1 cable, athough at a massive 5 inches (at least it's being used on a laptop ).

However, this leaves me at coming up with a way to get this thing to mate with the JP1 pads.

I read about some luck with drilling them and using pogo pins. So what about any other ways you guys have tried?

So far I have two ideas, but am not sure how well they wil work out...the first one is finding a 90 degree IDC pin set, and the other is finding a spare battery cover to mod into a clip in connector.

Thanks for any info.

[The Robman]

I'm not familiar with the 15-2138, but if it has pads like all the other Kameleons, I just solder pins onto the pads and then use hot glue for extra support.

[catatonic]

ahh, yeah this one has the undrilled pads on them

It's a bit diferent from the older 2133 though. The batteries are spaced apart. Far enough that there is no interference if you were to solder in jp1 pins. The jp1 header is at the very bottom of the circuit board. And the final change is the battery cover is not a screw-in type...it's a spring tension type. This makes it so the apadter boards for the 2133 won't work....so it's a good reference for the future that the 2133 adapter just won't fit right.

I guess I'll pop this thing open sometime to make sure there's nothing important on the other side of the pads, and drill. The glue and solder sounds like it might be fragile.

[The Robman]

Don't drill the pads. Even if there aren't any traces or other components on the other side, the Kameleon screen itself is there and you would undoubtedly drill through the screen.

If you have determined that adding the pins won't block the batteries (as they would on the 15-2133) just stand the pins on the pads and solder them in place.

[jherrick]

A piece to fit the Kameleon remotes can be found at Samtec. If you go here, and call them and ask for a sample of part number TSHSM-103-D-10-T-V they may ship you one for free. Or go here and build your part number. You want part number TSM-103-01-T-DV. After you build the part number you can order samples.

[jetstar52]

Thanks, jherrick. I visited the Samtec site on Sunday, and Tuesday I got a UPS envelope with a dozen samples. I'm going to try one as a male adapter while I wait for my pogo-pin adapter.

[jherrick]

No problem. Those of us with hardware experience need to make sure we share it with the group. That will keep things flowing smoothly and free!
Jim

[jetstar52]

I got tired of waiting for my pogo pins and decided to solder header pins to the pads in my 15-2138. I used the Samtec headers that jherrick found, that have surface-mount style feet. By trimming the pins, I got them to fit under the battery cover.

With a simple interface, downloading from the remote is possible without batteries. For uploading, I held a test lead across the two battery tubes.

Once again, thanks to everyone here for the time, effort, and genius you've donated to the rest of us.

[ElizabethD]

Dumb problem.
For checking whether a remote is jp1, all I need is the wrong side of the jp1 connector which came with my cable, but the cat must have eaten it. OR I could use a pogo adapter discussed above. I do not plan to solder.

I could not find a thing on the Samtec site which jetstar52 had good luck with. So I called Majorleagueelectronics. They told me to order on their website, and that I can have 5 samples, no charge. I ordered TSHSM-103-D-10-T-V early June. I haven't had any time to take care of this and nag them, but to date, nothing came.

RShack is hopeless. And some other sites want a min order of 100-250$ which I think is kinda steep for one use and I sure don't need a carload. Can somone please tell me how else to get this thing?

[The Robman]

Hey Liz, could you try re-phrasing the question or something, as I'm not clear as to what it is that you need.

The possibilities are...

1) A female 6-hole IDC connector
2) A male 6-pin connector (which would need to be soldered)
3) A pogo-pin adapter

[ElizabethD]

If I could phrase correctly I'd probably know how to order correctly

The simplest thing, if I still had it, is #2 - pins. That way I can scratch and hold while trying to get the image to IR. It came with the simple cable, but I didn't need it for 8910, is gone, lost forever.

Next best I'd think is the pogo job - bigger contact area. It has to do with this
OnkyoThread, your first sentence.

[ElizabethD]

Never mind, it all got sorted out in the 48 hours. I got responses from both places