31473147 Insignia NS-RC01G-09

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 3:20 pm

It was back when they had the wrong picture and what I assumed was the wrong cable before we got them to fix the listing. Looks like we can stick with chip partner then.

I just tried another cable from ezcar_II and it doesn't work with our remotes either. So that's another one to avoid.

Jack, get the chip_partner cable Rob linked above. There's plenty we can do without a cable. Tell us the make and model of your device and we can probably give you codes you can manually enter.

binky123 · Post by **binky123** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 4:08 pm

RealTerm can be used to control RTS, CTS and DTR. Perhaps try toggling the lines and see if there is a change in voltage. Perhaps these cables are soldered incorrectly and are wired to a different line.

3FG · Post by **3FG** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 4:17 pm

RealTerm can set a Break condition, which is needed to initiate connection with JP1.2/1.3 remotes. Checking it with a voltmeter will show if the interface can assert a break. If it can this will also unambiguously identify the TxD line.

Post by **mathdon** » Fri Mar 09, 2018 12:23 pm

This is just to confirm that the ChipPartner cable that I ordered on Jan 31 works perfectly, and has LEDs as an added bonus.

Post by **The Robman** » Fri Mar 09, 2018 12:47 pm

Split posts about the Hisense 65R6107 HDTV television (with Ruko) here:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... p?t=101178

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Fri Mar 09, 2018 12:57 pm

binky123 wrote:RealTerm can be used to control RTS, CTS and DTR. Perhaps try toggling the lines and see if there is a change in voltage. Perhaps these cables are soldered incorrectly and are wired to a different line.

I suspected that too. I opened mine up and confirmed the connections are correct, at least according to what's printed on the board.

binky123 · Post by **binky123** » Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:19 pm

mdavej wrote:
binky123 wrote:RealTerm can be used to control RTS, CTS and DTR. Perhaps try toggling the lines and see if there is a change in voltage. Perhaps these cables are soldered incorrectly and are wired to a different line.
I suspected that too. I opened mine up and confirmed the connections are correct, at least according to what's printed on the board.

ok. sounds like a clone or a PL2303. I wonder if we could salvage some use out of them. So confirming a Break signal, TX=0v, might be useful. Seeing if we could control any of the other lines would be helpful too.