JP1 Remotes

[bcardellini]

I've just started JP1 and I need some advice on how to cram an upgrade & a couple special protocols onto my Atlas DVR 5-Device w/ the 1k extender.

I have an upgrade installed for my receiver (Onkyo TX-SR702), which has made it a lot easier to add buttons for all the special audio functions I want (channel levels, surround mode, etc.).

I have the long/double key press special protocol installed that came with the extender. I love this for "LKP-Power = Power all devices off", and "LKP-device = power on and tune all to device" (e.g. PRESSING the DVD button puts the remote in DVD mode; HOLDING the DVD button powers on the receiver and switches it to DVD input, powers on the TV and switches it to Video 5, and powers on the DVD player.)

The problem is I also want to add the TOADTOG special protocol, because my DVD player (Toshiba) and cable box (SA8300HD) are toads, but I find I am short on capacity by 17 (bytes?). I have erased all the devices and protocols that are not a part of the extender, onkyo upgrade, and L/DKP protocol. I can post more information later, but I was hoping someone could give me a good trick to try off the top of their head.

-Brian

[Nils_Ekberg]

Why don't you post your IR file in the diagnostics area and one of us can get a look at. Put a link here to the file also.
_________________
Nils
Files Section
Diagnosis File Section

[The Robman]

Of course, the best solution would be to replace your 1k EEPROM chip with a 2k chip.
_________________
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

[Capn Trips]

[Capn Trips]

[Capn Trips]

Assuming you started with the Onkyo TX-SR702 upgrade in the file section and simply converted it from RS 15-2117 to Atlas DVR Extender remotes, I did the same and noted this upgrade is 84 bytes.

Simply taking the ten input select functions that by default were assigned to the numeric buttons 0-9 and making them keymoves, I reduced the size of the upgrade to 64 bytes, gaining you 20 bytes.

Take a look HERE.

The price you pay is that these ten keymoves will cost you 60 bytes of keymove space.
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Beginners - Read this thread first
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!


Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)

[bcardellini]

Thanks for all the responses guys.

I've posted my IR & KM files here:

I do have 18 free bytes for key moves and macros, and it looks like there might be a way to allocate those to upgrades. But even if I can, i don't think I'm going to have enough space because I'll need more to add some special protocol functions to actually use the toadtog protocol.

I removed all the functions I don't need from the buttons tab in KM and managed to save 4 bytes. Thanks Trips.

Since this remote actually belongs to TWC, I'd prefer not to get a 2k chip. But if I can't find a software solution, it might be time to break out the soldering stuff.

[/url]

[The Robman]

[Capn Trips]

OK, Brian, here goes.

I looked at your IR file and the first thing that struck me was your repeated use of the same LKP for various device modes. I took each of those repeated LKPs and made it a SINGLE LKP assigned to a phantom button, and then assigned the device buttons (and "power") as macros calling the respective LKPs. This saved 100 bytes of KeyMove/Macro space. So instead of 24 (5-6 byte) LKPs, there are now only 6, and 6 new (2-byte) macros.

To see what this looks like, look at THIS IR file and compare side-by-side with yours. (You will note that I retagged your "Device power on" macros to the x-shifted Device Key to prevent duplicate button assignment. I also wondered how your setup didn't go into infinite loops the way you had macros AND LKPs assigned to each device button - with the LKP's potentially calling themselves occasionally.)

[If you are not aware, you can have several simultaneous instances of IR open at the same time, to facilitate side-by-side comparisons.]

Then I replaced your Onkyo upgrade with THIS modified one, that changes the input assignments from being included in the device upgrade into keymoves.

This made just enough room for the ToadTog protocol/device to be added (0 bytes upgrade space remaining), and leaves you room for a few ToadTogs (75 bytes) should you need to code them.

Here's my final result.

Will that work for you?
_________________
Beginners - Read this thread first
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!


Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)

[Capn Trips]

Finally, coming back to work on the ToadTogs - I noted that all you required was discrete ON and OFF for your DVD and CBL devices. So I created those and put them in. To do this, I took the liberty of making a few changes in your IR file to support this a bit more "logically". Specifically, I changed all of your "shift-Power" functions to "xShift-Power", and changed the "all off" LKP to reflect this.

This allows the ToadTogs to use shift-cloaking to access the power toggle functions. (since you have a macro assigned to the "Power" button, you cannot use the "Power" button elsewhere (like in the ToadTog) without calling that macro. However, if you call "shift-Power" in a macro, if nothing is defined on "shift-power" then the remote will look for the function assigned in the current device to the UNshifted "power" key - bypassing the macro and accessing the "underlying" assigned function)

Bottom line is it saves a few keymove bytes, since if you left it as you had it, to use ToadTog, you would have had to assign the DVD and CBL Power functions to an ADDITIONAL button via keymoves, and then call THOSE in the ToadTog functions.

Here is my final final result - I hope it works (and I hope I explained clearly enough what I did so you can use it, change it, update it, whatever)
_________________
Beginners - Read this thread first
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!


Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)

[bcardellini]

Wow, thanks Trips. I will check out what you did when I get home from work tonight, but it sounds like good stuff. I'll let you know how it goes after I try to implement your ideas.

-Brian

[bcardellini]

Nice work trips. It seems like everything I wanted is there. Thanks.

I'm having a little trouble with the ToadTogs though. When I first looked at the toadtog file that came with my extender, I thought it would work like magic. But I guess there's really to way to send a true discrete power signal to my toads because they only recognize toggles. It looks to me like the special protocol function is trying to know/remember what state (on or off) my device is in and then either send or not send a toggle signal based on the discrete state I'm asking for. Is this correct?

Anyway I couldn't get my remote toadtog to stay synched with my devices. It would seem like it was working for a few minutes, but then I would try to "power all off" and it would turn the cable box, TV, and receiver off and turn my DVD player on. Or I would try to switch to Cable Box input and it would shut my cable box off. It seemed like just a problem of my toadtog having the wrong idea what state my devices were in, probably because the device didn't catch a power toggle signal I sent, and then the device and remote were out of sync.

I don't really like the idea of having to get my devices and remote synched all the time so I think it's time to upgrade my old DVD player to a new dude, and just not try to send discrete power signals to my cable box. Not to stray off topic, but...

Do you guys know DVD player manufacturers that typically make dudes? Are we getting close to some kind of blue-ray revolution that I should wait for before buying a new player?

Thanks again for all the help guys.
-Brian

[Capn Trips]

[Capn Trips]

A quick review of your (my ) IR file immediately shows that the "all off" macro on "x-shift power" omits the DVD device. I didn't notice this earlier, as this was not where I was focusing my attention - have you corrected that?

There's plenty of other "helpful" comments I'm prepared to make about how you've constructed some of your sequences (too much use of x_cancel, for example) if you're interested.

Another thing I wasn't sure of was whether the short press of power would work as I constructed it - theoretically it would only turn off the "active" device - does that work?

If you've made a few additional tweaks, and want some more help dealing with unexpected/undesired behaviour, post it with detailed explanations of the behaviour in question and I (and I'm sure others)remain happy to help (It's like a treasure hunt, at this point).
_________________
Beginners - Read this thread first
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!


Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)

[bcardellini]

Okay, I got a chance to take a good look at the IR file last night. I played around with it and it's working like a dream now. Plus I have 140&57 bytes free. See the updated .ir here.

ToadTogs aren't for me. The batteries in my remote aren't fresh, and my recliner is fairly close to all my equipment so, it's a 20 to 30 degree angle between pointing at my stack and pointing at my TV. Anyway, I don't like the idea of needing synch.

Luckily for me I discovered I don't need toadtog because my cable box can power on with any number key, and my DVD player can power on with the play button. So CBL discreteON = 0;exit, CBL discreetOFF = 0;exit;power. And similar for my DVD.

Also, the things I want to happen for Device LKPs, start with the actions I want for the Device SKPs (_O; _T; discreteON). So I put the desired SKP actions into the device macro, and they execute before calling the LKP SP function (phantom2). So there is no need for a macro that is called by phantom2 when it determines a SKP.

Anyway, if you want to have a look Trips, and let me know if there's anything I can do more efficiently/logically/cleanly, I'd appreciate it. And thanks again for all your help. The reconfiguration of the device and power macros you gave me were exactly the kind of clever tricks I was looking for. I can't belive I finally have my remote working exactly the way I want it. I love JP1!

-Brian[/url]