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tpaxadpom
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Posts: 64
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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 2:12 am Post subject: How to do manufacturing reset on RadioShack 15-100 remote |
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I cannot figure out how to perform manufacturing reset on RadioShack 15-100 remote control. Can someone please help? |
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vickyg2003 Site Admin
Joined: 20 Mar 2004 Posts: 7073 Location: Florida |
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 4:24 am Post subject: |
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Did you try the "modern LCD" reset instructions from the master reset instructions in the wiki?
http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.php?title=Master_Reset_Instructions _________________ Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.
Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
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tpaxadpom
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Posts: 64
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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 11:19 am Post subject: |
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thank you for the reply.
I've tried
Press and hold SETUP until screen reads "CODE SET"
Press RECORD
Follow the prompt
but nothing happens after that. My remote periodically rebooting/crashing. I thought perhaps manufacturing reset will cure it. |
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pH7_jp1
Joined: 14 Sep 2003 Posts: 480 Location: Sterling Heights, MI |
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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On page 26 of the user manual it says:
1) Hold P until the LCD displays CODE SET OK OR [UP] [DOWN].
2) Use [up] [down] keys to scroll to RESET.
3) Press OK.
There is more, just OK a couple of times to confirm you want to reset. As I recall, there is somewhere in there that you can enter the typical 981 code to do a factory reset. |
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tpaxadpom
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Posts: 64
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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 12:46 pm Post subject: |
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I believe you are referring to OPS reset and not MFP reset as described in here. I have tried the OPS reset but it didn't fix the problem I am having. I suspect I may have damaged remote and/or wiring somewhere. I did open the remote and inspected but haven't found anything wrong with it. This remote is being used by my mom and she damaged the connector I have soldered when she was replacing the batteries (perhaps I damaged it myself even). I soldered connector pins yesterday (no longer have access to crimping tool) but I am unable to get it to work with IR or debug script. I also had issues with jp1.x cable I built but I was able to fix it and it works with other remotes.
Here is the thread that talks about MFR vs OPS.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4057 |
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pH7_jp1
Joined: 14 Sep 2003 Posts: 480 Location: Sterling Heights, MI |
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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I couldn't find the instructions, but I think, after you scroll to RESET and before you click OK, enter 981 and the LCD changes to something like MFR RESET. This is from a very old memory, so the point you enter 981 may be wrong. When I get home I will see if I still have my 15-100.
EDIT: No, I don't have an operational 15-100 any more, so sorry I can't test this, but I am sure that this or some variation of when to enter the 981 should work |
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tpaxadpom
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Posts: 64
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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you pH7_jp1. I just followed your instructions and it worked.
1. press P until code set shows up
2. up arrow once to get to reset menu
3. click ok once
4. enter981.
Viola! MFR completed. Red led blinks several times and you are done.
I had 2 broken wires at the connector crimps! I got the the remote working with my adapter cable but I broke the connector so I will have to resolder it tomorrow. |
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pH7_jp1
Joined: 14 Sep 2003 Posts: 480 Location: Sterling Heights, MI |
Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 10:42 pm Post subject: |
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Good. I'm glad it worked. |
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tpaxadpom
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Posts: 64
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 11:22 pm Post subject: |
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I fixed connector today and was able to program the remote. Now the new problem arised, the remote is not sending the signal. I've used my cell phone camera I don't see any light from IR sensor... One step forward, two steps back. |
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tpaxadpom
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Posts: 64
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Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 1:46 am Post subject: |
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Does anyone know if schematic for 15-100 is available for download? |
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Thomas
Joined: 16 Feb 2008 Posts: 87
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Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 8:33 am Post subject: |
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Before trying to track down a schematic...
Very likely you have fried the IR LED -- I did that, years ago. There are some posts on this forum concerning that episode.
Since you know how to open the case, use a loupe or magnifying glass to examine the LED anode/cathode inside. BE careful with the display, it detatches easily and makes reassembly difficult (need 3 or 4 hands). Compare with any other handy LED. If it looks different, burnt, distorted anode, do another test.
If you have a VOM/multimeter, unsolder one lead of the LED and use the meter on low ohms or 'diode check' mode. Leads one way, no current (infinite resistance). Reverse the leads, you should get some indication that the LED is conducting. If the LED fails this test, next step is to replace it. Note very carefully the shape of the anode and cathode in the LED, they are decidely different, reinstalling with correct polarity is important.
Easiest source of an IR LED with correct wavelength is from another remote control. Try to get one with leads long enough to make the soldering easier. Alternatively you can order one from Mouser or Digikey, but the shipping cost is significant. When Radio Shack existed, they sold p/n 276-143c, 940nm. Digikey p/n is 67-1000-ND. I also successfully used one LED around 400nm to make a camera remote shutter control, so there may be some leeway in the wavelength spec. Keep us posted.
TC _________________ Tom Carlson |
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tpaxadpom
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Posts: 64
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Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 11:23 am Post subject: |
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Thank you Tom. I did see that one side of LED is connected to battery + terminal through some current limiting resistor. I didn't see anything suspicious and measured ~0.9V drop in diode check mode with DMM. Even though I performed the measurement in circuit it does seems like the LED is fine but I haven't done any close up visual inspection like you are suggesting. I need to take it back to work and probe with the scope LED line. I do have some remote controls laying around that I can sacrifice to fix this one. I really appreciate the feedback and will keep you posted. |
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Thomas
Joined: 16 Feb 2008 Posts: 87
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Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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If the LED is not producing anything for the cell phone camera, it is probably not functioning. You could piggyback an LED from a known good source and see whether that works with the cell phone. Use a little bit of extra wire (thin stuff) to get it outside the case and put the case back together. Or just assume it's shot and go ahead and change it.
TC _________________ Tom Carlson |
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tpaxadpom
Joined: 19 Sep 2007 Posts: 64
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Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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Tom, thank you once again. I did fix it. It ended up being the IR LED not working. I have used oscope to verify the remote is working. When I removed IR LED and did diode check it was open both ways. I used RadioShack remote with long LED leads that I trimmed and reinstalled. The light spectrum is different looking through the phone camera, but I am sure it is going to work. I will update the other thread talking about fried IR LED.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9554 |
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