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poet99
Joined: 05 Jan 2004 Posts: 27
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Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 9:53 am Post subject: POGO adapter - does it work well? |
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I am having problems with the 6-pin headers that I soldered in my remotes. They keep getting loose when I insert the JP1 female connector. So I am considering taking the headers out and using a pogo adapter instead.
Do pogo adapters work well?
Thanks in advance
François |
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usblipitor
Joined: 10 Oct 2003 Posts: 516 Location: Greenbelt, MD |
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 10:44 am Post subject: Re: POGO adapter - does it work well? |
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Rob is the expert, but I would suggest more solder and some hot glue.
while you are back there, if Rob thinks it is a good idea, and if you have one, put some hot glue on the transformer. |
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The Robman Site Owner
Joined: 01 Aug 2003 Posts: 21254 Location: Chicago, IL |
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 11:00 am Post subject: |
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The pogo-pin adapters were designed for the Kameleon remotes, that don't have 6-pin connectors and don't have provisions for them being soldered in. They work well enough for the task they were designed for, but they're still not as conventient as having the 6-pin soldered in the remote.
Furthermore, the pogos only work with remotes where the holes for the 6-pin are of the "pass through" variety, in other words, when you look at the holes before you solder in the 6-pin, are there metal traces around the edges? If you just see the plastic of the PCB then the pogo won't work for this remote.
For example, in the US, you could use the pogo for the RCU810 but you can't use it for remotes like the URC_6131, URC_6012, etc.
In your case, if the pins keep coming loose, it sounds like you are getting cold solder joints. I suspect that you tried soldering in the 6-pin without using flux.
Btw, which remote are you talking about? _________________ Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help! |
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poet99
Joined: 05 Jan 2004 Posts: 27
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Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 11:22 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the info, Rob.
I have two URC-6800’s and one URC-8017B.
From what you are saying, the pogo would not work with the 8017B.
Yes, I am having a hard time soldering the pins. I had to start over so many times that I removed the metal trace around hole #2, thus cutting this circuit, on one of the 6800s. That’s on the key side of the board. I am afraid this one is messed up...
François |
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The Robman Site Owner
Joined: 01 Aug 2003 Posts: 21254 Location: Chicago, IL |
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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Soldering the pins is only difficult if you don't use flux. Am I right in assuming that you didn't use flux? _________________ Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help! |
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poet99
Joined: 05 Jan 2004 Posts: 27
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Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Well, it says rosin solder on the roller.
Is that flux? |
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daveoram
Joined: 05 Aug 2003 Posts: 113 Location: Yorkshire, UK |
Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 11:29 am Post subject: |
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I personally would never endorse the use of additional flux in soldering electronic components - there should be enough flux in cored solder to do the job properly - additional flux should only be used in plumbins jobs ot the like. I think the problem is more likely to becaused by either to cool a soldering iron or one that is too hot or applied to the joint for too long. Things may be different in the US, but rosin based solder with a suitable iron should make a perfect joint every time. _________________ I remember my wedding day like it was yesterday.
If it had been tomorrow I wouldn't have turned up!
Dave |
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The Robman Site Owner
Joined: 01 Aug 2003 Posts: 21254 Location: Chicago, IL |
Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2004 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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poet99 wrote: | Well, it says rosin solder on the roller.
Is that flux? |
Nope. Before I discovered flux, I tried using just regular rosin solder and it was very difficult to get the solder to run down the pins and bond with the pads. Somewhere along the line I discovered flux, which you can get from Radio Shack, and it makes the job so much easier. The solder runs down the pins instantly and you get perfect "Hershey's Kisses" shaped joints rather than balls of solder that doesn't bond with the pads. _________________ Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help! |
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Filebug JP1 Vendor
Joined: 21 Sep 2003 Posts: 74 Location: Mechanicsburg, PA |
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 7:56 am Post subject: |
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Rob,
Why wouldn't a pogo adapter work on a remote that has holes like the 6131 or 6012? A 6 pin header is a "pass through" design just like a pogo pin adapter, so what is the difference? _________________ -Tom |
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Filebug JP1 Vendor
Joined: 21 Sep 2003 Posts: 74 Location: Mechanicsburg, PA |
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:07 am Post subject: |
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AH HA. I think I just figured out where my brain froze! The remotes you mentioned only have solder pads on the bottom of the circuit board. Thanks! _________________ -Tom |
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The Robman Site Owner
Joined: 01 Aug 2003 Posts: 21254 Location: Chicago, IL |
Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:22 am Post subject: |
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Filebug wrote: | AH HA. I think I just figured out where my brain froze! The remotes you mentioned only have solder pads on the bottom of the circuit board. Thanks! |
Yup! _________________ Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help! |
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