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gfb107 Expert
Joined: 03 Aug 2003 Posts: 3411 Location: Cary, NC |
Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:19 pm Post subject: |
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st5000 wrote: | Also, what do the asterisks mean next to the DVD, DVR, TV,...,Program buttons in RM when the 15-134 rdf file has been loaded? |
The asterisk means that any functions assigned to those buttons will not be included directly in the device upgrade, they will be turned into key moves.
Whether or not a button can be assigned a function in a device upgrade or not is a characteristic of each remote. This is represented in the RDF, but the RDF must match the way the remote actually works. _________________ -- Greg
Original RemoteMaster developer
JP1 How-To's and Software Tools
The #1 Code Search FAQ and it's answer (PLEASE READ FIRST) |
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mdavej Expert
Joined: 08 Oct 2003 Posts: 4501
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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The 13x series has even fewer limitations than other remotes since nearly all keys (including transport keys, etc.) are present in every device mode, thus, fewer keymoves required in upgrades.
Your stop button problem is probably something simple, like forgetting to copy/paste the device into IR again after you changed it in RM, or not having the identical device code in RM assigned to the TV on the general tab in IR. There's no reason for it not to work if programmed properly.
P works as you described. Again, make sure you copy/paste from RM to the device in IR after making changes. You should see new key moves for your shifted functions in IR after pasting in the upgrade.
The 134 extender has a few more limitations regarding shifted functions. But the RDF includes those rules and won't let you assign anything to shifted keys that won't work. I assume you aren't using the extender anyway. |
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st5000
Joined: 02 Oct 2008 Posts: 25
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Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 9:45 am Post subject: Inside... |
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BTW, in true hacker fashion, I "dropped" my remote and proceeded to pull it apart (why wast a good drop?). Even though the silicon button skin has the missing buttons under the plastic shell, it doesn't appear there are the proper targets on the printed circuit board. It's and interesting board. It looks single layered but if you look closely you can see where it appears they printed a second layer of jumpers over the solder resist. The same technique appears to be used to make the targets for the buttons. It difficult to see so it probably will not photograph well. Missing are the bottom 4 button targets and a couple more device button targets. I'm comparing this to a 15-135. |
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st5000
Joined: 02 Oct 2008 Posts: 25
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Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 9:48 am Post subject: Something wrong w/the TV device button...? |
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Ever since I move my TV code from the AUX to the TV device button I have totally lost control of my TV. Although not a perfect match, I went back to a fresh copy of the rmdu file an mapped all the buttons once again and copied both the device and protocol windows from RM to IR. Could there be a problem w/the TV button on the 15-134?
I'm trying to use the Sony kp-61HS10.rmdu file. I was having success when I associated this with the AUX button. Guess I'll have to back track and try it there again. |
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mdavej Expert
Joined: 08 Oct 2003 Posts: 4501
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Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 10:25 am Post subject: |
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Since you moved it to the AUX button, make sure you also pick the TV device Type on the general tab of IR. If the types in RM and IR don't match, it will use the wrong code. For example, if you type 1234 in the code field in IR, and use type TV, the actual code the remote uses is 11234 (note the 1 prefix). Putting the same code in the AUX device and leaving it type Audio actually uses 31234 (note the 3 prefix), not the code you intended. Changing the type to TV uses 11234 as it should. So any device button can handle any type, so long as the types in RM and IR are consistent. To see how they are related, look at the Device Types and Device Type Aliases sections in the RDF.
That's interesting about the board. I've wondered if I could make a hybrid, using the case and extra buttons of a 135 on a 133 board. Since the targets aren't there, it wouldn't work. |
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st5000
Joined: 02 Oct 2008 Posts: 25
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Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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Hi all...
I'm going to chalk up my TV problems to pilot error (the PIP OFF key is associated w/device 164, not 1) and not finding the correct rmdu file for my TV (it was over at yahoo still, there's now a copy here at hifi-remote.com as well).
The shift key feature (pressing then releasing the program key then pressing another "regular" key (i.e. "1") to access the shift function assigned to that key (i.e. "1")) is still eluding me. I think I've see it work, but more then not I can't get shift keys to do anything.
I'm going to now try programming the 15-135. I have seen posts where people prefer the 15-134 because of the indicator lights under the device keys. However, I have several more then 5 devices I would like to control. Even if they are not all in the same room, having only one remote control image to deal with would make this (already confusing) project easier to handle.
Thanks all for your help. |
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Mark Pierson Expert
Joined: 03 Aug 2003 Posts: 3017 Location: Connecticut, USA |
Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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st5000 wrote: | The shift key feature (pressing then releasing the program key then pressing another "regular" key (i.e. "1") to access the shift function assigned to that key (i.e. "1")) is still eluding me. I think I've see it work, but more then not I can't get shift keys to do anything. | If you're using a shifted numeric button (0-9) in an unextended remote, you need to press shift twice and then the button (Shift-Shift-#). Otherwise, the remote thinks you're trying to directly enter an EFC. _________________ Mark |
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mdavej Expert
Joined: 08 Oct 2003 Posts: 4501
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Posted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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The 133 has 8 device buttons, the 135 has 7, and the 134 has 5. However all are 8 device as long as you have a cable. The additional devices are accessible via macros. For example to add a second DVD player to the 134, put it's code on dev6 and make a macro on shift-DVD, for example, with the command dev6. Now P-DVD activates your second DVD (the device button won't light in this case). The extender has a device multiplexer if you need to go beyond 8 devices. The 133 and 134 also have a home theater mode like the 135, but it is hidden. Just put phantomMS in a macro to activate it. |
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urc6131
Joined: 02 Aug 2007 Posts: 24
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Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2024 1:38 pm Post subject: Re: New Radio Shack 15-134 |
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mdavej wrote: |
EDIT: Finally got one and finished up the RDF. Actually nicer than I expected. The device buttons have led's so you know the active device, and the number keys have letters printed above them for easier searches on DirecTV DVR's. It also has a hidden Home Theater mode as well as 3 additional devices. To use Home Theater mode, just create a macro on a physical button that uses the phantomMS button. Best of all it's easy to buy and JP1.3 ready. |
I just started using the 15-134 remote. Can you tell me which RDF should I use? I have the parallel JP1 cable. I managed to get it to plug in to the jumper in the remote. But I am not able to get IR.exe to download from remote. |
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mdavej Expert
Joined: 08 Oct 2003 Posts: 4501
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Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2024 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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The 15-134 is JP1.3. It won't work with the parallel cable. May not work with IR either, not sure, never tried it. If you use RMIR, it will prompt you for the correct RDF.
A question for you if you don't mind. How did you end up just now starting to use a 15 year old remote? |
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urc6131
Joined: 02 Aug 2007 Posts: 24
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Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2024 11:30 pm Post subject: |
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I bought the 15-134, over a decade ago, as a backup for my go-to remote, which is a URC6131. But lately it is acting up. So I break out my brand new 15-134 and hoping I could programme it.
If my parallel JP1 cable is not compatible, I would be really disappointed. I don't think I am willing to invest on another JP1 cable. The cable page ( http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.php/JP1_Cables ) didn't say the parallel cable is not compatible? |
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The Robman Site Owner
Joined: 01 Aug 2003 Posts: 21238 Location: Chicago, IL |
Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2024 8:18 am Post subject: |
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As Dave says, the 15-134 is a JP1.3 remote, whereas your URC-6131 is a JP1 remote, so they use different cables. If you're not willing to invest $10 to get this working, this is probably the end of your JP1 journey. _________________ Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help! |
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mdavej Expert
Joined: 08 Oct 2003 Posts: 4501
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2024 11:50 am Post subject: |
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Keep in mind, JP1 is over 20 years old. And your JP1.3 remote is 15 years old. As far as electronic devices technology goes, that's a pretty good run. A JP1.3 cable still works with most current remotes well as 15 year old ones, and like Rob said, is readily available for around $10. |
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urc6131
Joined: 02 Aug 2007 Posts: 24
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2024 2:36 pm Post subject: |
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If it is truly just $10, I am willing to give it a try. But where is this $10 JP1.3 cable? |
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mdavej Expert
Joined: 08 Oct 2003 Posts: 4501
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