JP1 Remotes

I am putting together an upgrade for my boss and want to look smart. I got a CCF file from the manufacturer. I simply decoded it with ccf decoder and opened in Excel. I did not have to format it

I cut and pasted the obc code into Keymaster, then all the efc codes populated correctly on there own. I cut and pasted the description in notes. I used AMP for the device, used device code 0, RECS (45) protocol and 2020 for the device code.

I transfered the upgrade to IR

I hope it works.

My question is, what is the difference between the protocols,
RECS80 (45)
RECS80 (68)
RECS80 (90)
I can not figure out from the ccf file, what I should use, it just says RECS80

Thanks
Robert

Normally, DecodeCCF tells you which version of RECS80 you need to use. If it doesn't, I suggest that you post the CCF file in the Diagnosis Area and then post a link to it here, and one of the experts will probably take a look at it and tell you which version you should be using.

Just for our info, could you also please let us know what the device in question is.

Also, just to keep the terminology straight, the 2020 code in your example is a "setup code" not a "device code".

The Robman wrote:Normally, DecodeCCF tells you which version of RECS80 you need to use.

The program doesn't tell you. The documentation tells you.

The RECS80 section of the documentations is at
http://john.fine.home.comcast.net/ir/De ... tml#RECS80

T=2 (521/5043/7602) is in the Misc. field. According to the document, Thanks Johns Fine, I do not have a perfect fit.

What I am trying to create is a setup code for is a Channel Plus Whole House amplifier for its keypads. Very Cool and Inexpensive!!! Amp and 6 keypads for $1100, fyi.

I can not seem to figure out where the diagnosis posting area is. Please advise.

Again, your guys are truly the Best!! I really appreciate your time and efforts maintaining and cultivating this project.

Sincerely
Robert

robertmyhtpc wrote:T=2 (521/5043/7602) is in the Misc. field. According to the document, Thanks Johns Fine, I do not have a perfect fit.

I wouldn't worry about the 521 being out of range for RECS80(45). The first (of the three numbers) is least important.

The other two are perfect for RECS80(45) or RECS80(90) and rule out RECS80(68).

You didn't tell us the frequency. A reasonable frequency probably means RECS80(45) is best. An unreasonable frequency or zero frequency probably means RECS80(90) is best.

The T=2 is also unusual.

Most RECS80 remotes just use two T values (0 and 1). A few use all four (0 throught 3). I'm pretty sure the JP1 upgrades will only generate 0 and 1.

If your original remote generates all four T values, then the device should still work with JP1 generating just 0 and 1. But there might be some original remote that generates ONLY T=2 and T=3 (though I haven't seen one yet) in which case JP1 generating T=0 and T=1 wouldn't work.

robertmyhtpc wrote: I can not seem to figure out where the diagnosis posting area is. Please advise.

Diagnosis area is here
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... &cat_id=35

Worked like a Champ, (45) by the way!

Thanks so much again.

So I built this upgrade and tested with the 15-2116. It worked great. So I changed the device in Keymap Master and built an upgrade for the 8910. It seams to work fine, but the weird thing is my IR repeater flasher flashes much dimmer with the 8910. Does that make sense?
thanks
Robert

The 15-2116 sends a stronger signal than the URC-8811 because it has 2 IR-LEDs whereas the 8910 just has 1.

Rob
What is the value of the led's on the 8910's

Also, can they be snapped apart. I would like to try adding 2 as they are very directional.

Thanks

Well, there's only 1 IR-LED in the URC-8910, so I'm not sure what you mean by "snap apart", and I don't know the strength, I assume any IR-LED would do. I think the strength of the LEDs output is controlled by the resistor that is attached to it.

Is the 8910 one of the models where the IR-LED is often recessed a little too deep inside the remote, restricting its power and angle?

If so, you can take the case apart and carefully bend the LED forward to improve it.

I've looked at various IR LED specs online. They vary a LOT in how much IR signal strength they deliver for a given amount of current. They vary even more in how that strength is distributed over angle. And they vary even more in how much current they can stand without burning out.

For any IR LED, the max current is a complicated function of duty cycle. The lower the duty cycle, the higher current it can stand. The "duty cycle" encoded as such in a JP1 protocol executor (see Protocol Builder) is just one factor in the actual duty cycle as it affects the LED's max current.

The resistor and other components around the IR LED in a JP1 remote are there to give a fairly stable current across the LED over a variety of conditions. Changing the resistor would change that current and some resistor values may safely increase the current. But an increase in current enough to significantly help a weak protocol may be enough to burn out the LED when using a higher duty cycle protocol.

I'm also unsure how well regulated the LED current is across the range of battery voltage. I hope they did better than linear. But even so, I assume there is some change in IR strength based on battery voltage under load.

I can't answer for all 8910s but the LED in my one was recessed quite a bit and it originally was weaker than my Kameleon 8040. It can be usefully poked out a bit with an apparent improvement in signal strength (and probably angle but I haven't tested that).

Could one use the IR LED as input to a small amplifier to drive a bigger, beefier LED (one that could be replaced should it ever burn out)?