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Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 10:28 am
by 3FG
I think there are two possibilities:
1) The batteries are low, or have high resistance.
2) the remote is defective.
Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 3:34 am
by Mike99
The batteries are not very old. I did temporarily swap them with new ones when problems first started happening. For the heck of it I compared the old batteries with the new ones under load & they were all the same. So I ended up putting the "old" ones back in.
I'm not doubting that weak batteries could scramble the remote's memory, but I've never experienced anything like that before.
I can pickup another remote on sale for $8 so I might just do that. It wouldn't hurt to have a spare.
Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 3:52 am
by vickyg2003
Are you using the recommended alkaline batteries? Or are you using rechargables?
Another thing to consider is the size of the batteries,
I've seen some counterfeit batteries that were undersized. They rattle in the remotes and cause the remotes to malfunction.
I've also seen this problem in my ancient URC-7800 where I needed to add a piece of foam to keep the batteries from shifting
If you shake your remote, do you feel or here the batteries shift?
With some of the remotes, the E2 area is refreshed after any kind of error. If its a low voltage error, the E2 area doesn't rewrite correctly and the remote corrupts.
Posted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 3:51 am
by Mike99
I use Energizer alkaline batteries & they do not rattle. If the remote acts up again I'll swap batteries.
Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 7:56 am
by Mike99
The remote stopped working again. I went to use it last night & none of the device buttons lit up. Removed a battery, pressed #2 button while re-installing battery got it working again. I then put in new batteries & will see if that makes a difference.
Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:25 am
by Mike99
My remote stopped working last night.
Two days ago the Macro 1 button did not work unless I pushed it very firmly & I thought it must have somehow gotten dirty inside. Then last night the remote would not control my WMC HTPC. However the Volume control which was locked to the AVR did function, which means at least the remote was sending out something. And the second function assigned to the Macro 2 button did work (it turned off CC). However the first function on Macro 2 which turned on CC did not work.
I did both 9-8-0 and 9-8-1 resets & re-entered the codes & macros & everything works fine again. Including the Macro 1 button which only requires a normal press again to work.
Is the data getting scrambled somehow or do you think the remote is defective?
Why would the Macro 1 button act up & require a very firm press & then act normal after everything is reset? Perhaps having having to press it several times to get it to work was the issue & not the firm pressing.
I don't have a JP1 cable because I've just never needed it. But if I did get one would it help diagnose the problem & fix the problem? If I still have to fix the problem every few months is there some advantage of using the cable vs. simply re-setting & re-entering the codes?
I realize there probably is no definitive answer to what is causing my periodic problem, but I am hoping to get a couple possible solutions and/or a consensus of opinion.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:32 am
by pH7_jp1
Sorry if I am asking a silly question, but you didn't mention - Did you try replacing new, fresh batteries?
EDIT: Oops! Sorry. After I posted, I noticed an earlier post that said you would try that.
Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 11:11 am
by mdavej
Also be aware that Macro1 and 2 on these remotes are multi-macro buttons, meaning, if you aren't careful, you can put more than one macro on the same button. If you did that, it would take more than one button press to run the correct one.
This remote also does device specific macros using 978. So those would only work in one device mode and none of the others. So make sure you aren't doing that by mistake either.
While the remote should never lose its programming, even if the batteries die, a cable makes it much easier to reload your config, rather than reprogramming everything by hand. I think you can easily put together a JP1.3 cable these days for $10-$20.
Since what you describe is not normal, you may want to go ahead and exchange it if possible.
Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 11:55 am
by chuliu
The dead rcrp054b I have came back to life.
I have a spare one that has a device upgrade in its memory, tv 2000.
I downloaded with ir.exe from the spare remote with tv 2000 in its memory.
Then I loaded it with ir.exe and change every device 1 to 8 with TV 2000.
I then uploaded tit to my dead rcrp054b, and it has come back to life.
The weird thing is that if I then do a 981 reset, it will die again with the cbl flashing. If I download from the now dead rcrp054b, device 1 to 8 are now pointing to some numbers that are not in the device tab, because the device tab is empty after the 981 reset.
However, if I do 981 reset on the sapre one, it is still ok and doesn't fail.
I think I will just keep the rcrp054b this way with every device set to tv 2000 for now.
Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 12:09 pm
by vickyg2003
I have killed 3 RCA RCR05B remotes. I suspect that the 6 pin connector is too fragile for the frequency that I upload. You might want to check the solder around the connector for a break.
I switched to using used Comcast JP1.3 remote for my testing because they are cheaper and hold up very well.
Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 12:23 pm
by chuliu
vickyg2003 wrote:I have killed 3 RCA RCR05B remotes. I suspect that the 6 pin connector is too fragile for the frequency that I upload. You might want to check the solder around the connector for a break.
I switched to using used Comcast JP1.3 remote for my testing because they are cheaper and hold up very well.
I killed 2 myself.
is comcast JP1.3 available on ebay?
Can you post a link or let me know the exact model?
I just ordered last night two nevo c2 lcd remote off ebay because they are very cheap and shipping cost is fair to asia, too.
I also have an ancient model urc-8820 and a vizio vur8 6100.
I think vizio vur8 6100 is using samsung chip?
I think nevo c2 also is samsung chip?
Thanks.
Posted: Sun Oct 25, 2015 1:15 pm
by vickyg2003
The Comcast remotes all look alike and the sellers don't have a clue.
I do see a lot of Atlas JP1.3 remotes on ebay. Again a very durable remote. I haven't bricked them either. Its just that RCA remote that is so fragile.
Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 4:51 pm
by andyross
I tried the DeoxIT on a retired RCRP05BR. The version I used was D5, which seems to be the most basic.
Basically, it actually made it worse. Intermittent keys didn't work at all, and other keys were now intermittent. I ended up using some alcohol to wipe everything down and got it back to the way it was before.
I don't think DeoxIT is worth it unless the contacts are plated. The RCA uses carbon pads on the PCB.
Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 5:35 pm
by The Robman
Ah, they're exposed traces on most of the remotes that I have. I haven't opened my RCA to see what's inside. But it's still useful stuff to have around, trust me on that.
error write remote returned -1
Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 6:43 am
by smbs
Trying to upload to rca rcrp05b "no name USB remote.rmdu" using serial jp1 and get error "write remote returned -1" which appears immediately after pressing upload button
Thanx
P.S--Software RemoteMaster Device Upgrade Editor, v2.03 build 14
with all my playing around I seem to have bricked my RCA--with new good batteries inserted no lights flicker and the remote seems dead also get "no remote found" when using cable and rmir. Anything I can do???
I tried to upload a file to the remote and after unplugging the jp1 cable the cbl button starting flashing and then other device buttons flashed for awhile. I removed the batteries and replaced new ones and the remote is completely dead no light flicker and not found by rmir when connected.
I have a copy of the file .rmir which I uploaded which I think caused the trouble. Any factory reset combo??