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Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 1:43 am
by underquark
Yes, but Tommy Tyler wrote:Connecting everything to a PC does not change the measured battery current...
So, switching it off at the PC end ought not to make a noticeable difference? I suppose you could add an on-off switch to the adapter cable but then - no offence inended - if you're in the habbit of leaving your remotes connected all the time will you remember to use that switch?
Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 2:21 am
by vickyg2003
underquark wrote:
So, switching it off at the PC end ought not to make a noticeable difference? I suppose you could add an on-off switch to the adapter cable but then - no offence inended - if you're in the habbit of leaving your remotes connected all the time will you remember to use that switch?
Well yes, that's not going to do it. Its not that I intend to leave it plugged in all the time, its just that when I'm looking for bugs in assembly language sometimes it takes so long, that I forget that I have it plugged in.
This new cable supplies so much power, that when I take out one of the batteries, the remote still partially works. I get into the low voltage warning loop, so the led's keep double flashing when I press the keys!
Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 5:07 am
by eferz
vickyg2003 wrote:Well yes, that's not going to do it. Its not that I intend to leave it plugged in all the time, its just that when I'm looking for bugs in assembly language sometimes it takes so long, that I forget that I have it plugged in.
This new cable supplies so much power, that when I take out one of the batteries, the remote still partially works. I get into the low voltage warning loop, so the led's keep double flashing when I press the keys!
Have you thought of allowing the operating system to shut off either the device or the hub where its connected?