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Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2021 11:17 am
by ckeays
rodenti wrote:I picked up a couple of these remotes for cheap to play with. I'm planning to build a one-row JP1 cable instead of adapting my existing one, but the instructions don't have the details on what lines go to each of the five pins. I have deduced the following using several interface cable documents, please let me know if this is correct before I start my build:

View from cable side (back of connector), remote control buttons facing up:

Code: Select all

      O      O      O      O      O
     RTS    TXD    GND    RXD    EMPTY
If you are using a FT232RL cable then the colours (on my cable) are:

Red 5V (do not connect to remote, use the batteries in the remote instead)
Black = GND
White = RxD
Green = TxD
Yellow = RTS
Blue = CTS

this is the cable I have:
https://www.banggood.com/6Pin-FTDI-FT23 ... rehouse=CN

or here is more detail (in pdf):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/16vgtxB ... sp=sharing

When looking at the remote with the keys facing up the pins are:

From Left Side of remote to Right side:
White(RxD), Green (TxD), Black (GND), Yellow (RTS), N/C
I just checked this now on my remote and it is correct.(working with Remotemaster)
Some cables from China are different. The RTS/CTS colours may be reversed or the RxD and TxD colours are sometimes reversed.

Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2021 11:55 am
by rodenti
ckeays wrote::

When looking at the remote with the keys facing up the pins are:

From Left Side of remote to Right side:
White(RxD), Green (TxD), Black (GND), Yellow (RTS), N/C
I just checked this now on my remote and it is correct.(working with Remotemaster)
Some cables from China are different. The RTS/CTS colours may be reversed or the RxD and TxD colours are sometimes reversed.
Thanks, it looks like I have RXD and RTS reversed in my diagram.

I'm a little confused because your description is slightly different from Rob's in the previous post.

Here is a standard JP1 pinout:

pin - color - type
1 - (empty):VDD
2 - Yellow:RTS
3 - Black:GND
4 - Green:TXD
5 - (empty)
6 - White:RXD
Blue:CTS (not connected)
Red:5V (not connected)

According to the pdf in the files section ( https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=10722) the pin numbers for the 6 pin line up with the 5 pin, except pin 6 becomes pin 5 (ie. 1-1 (empty), 2-2, 3-3, 4-4, 5-x, 6-5).

So that means this is how it is described in the PDF (same as yours):

Code: Select all

      5      4      3      2      1
      O      O      O      O      O
     RXD    TXD    GND    RTS    EMPTY

But in the post referred to by Rob (https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16360) it has has 1 and 2 swapped:

For remotes with a 5-hole connector (like the URC-2025):
[NOTE: remove the batteries while using RMIR]
1 - Yellow:RTS
2 - (empty):VDD
3 - Black:GND
4 - Green:TXD
5 - White:RXD


Which of these is correct, and does it matter?

Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2021 12:06 pm
by The Robman
I remember there being some back and forth on these remotes. If I remember correctly, there is more than one way to connect them and establish a connection, but some ways were more reliable than others. I know I had a hell of a time establishing a reliable connection with mine. I didn't have time to do a full search to see where things ended up, but I did recall that we had that entry in the Chip_Partner thread. I bet Chris uses his remote more than I do, so he probably has the best pinout.

Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2021 12:43 pm
by rodenti
I found one discussion here: https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... &&start=15

The difference is with pins 1 and 2, and it says to remove batteries while ckeays seems to keep the batteries in the remote.

The cable I ordered is https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07FVMCPMT from Amazon; it matches the wire colours of the cable used by ckeays so I'll build it the way he recommended... if it doesn't work I'll swap pin 2 to 1 and try without batteries.

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2021 9:24 pm
by rodenti
Just built the cable using the pinout from @ckeays and it works great.

The ability of the remote is limited with no shifted buttons or keymoves, but I can make it do everything that I need using the 7 phantom keys, the "extra" device, and macros.

Macros run slow, but at least they work as I expected.

Thanks for all your help Robman and ckeays!