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Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 3:20 pm
by mdavej
It was back when they had the wrong picture and what I assumed was the wrong cable before we got them to fix the listing. Looks like we can stick with chip partner then.
I just tried another cable from ezcar_II and it doesn't work with our remotes either. So that's another one to avoid.
Jack, get the chip_partner cable Rob linked above. There's plenty we can do without a cable. Tell us the make and model of your device and we can probably give you codes you can manually enter.
Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 4:08 pm
by binky123
RealTerm can be used to control RTS, CTS and DTR. Perhaps try toggling the lines and see if there is a change in voltage. Perhaps these cables are soldered incorrectly and are wired to a different line.
Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 4:17 pm
by 3FG
RealTerm can set a Break condition, which is needed to initiate connection with JP1.2/1.3 remotes. Checking it with a voltmeter will show if the interface can assert a break. If it can this will also unambiguously identify the TxD line.
Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 12:23 pm
by mathdon
This is just to confirm that the ChipPartner cable that I ordered on Jan 31 works perfectly, and has LEDs as an added bonus.
Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 12:47 pm
by The Robman
Split posts about the Hisense 65R6107 HDTV television (with Ruko) here:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... p?t=101178
Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 12:57 pm
by mdavej
binky123 wrote:RealTerm can be used to control RTS, CTS and DTR. Perhaps try toggling the lines and see if there is a change in voltage. Perhaps these cables are soldered incorrectly and are wired to a different line.
I suspected that too. I opened mine up and confirmed the connections are correct, at least according to what's printed on the board.
Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:19 pm
by binky123
mdavej wrote:binky123 wrote:RealTerm can be used to control RTS, CTS and DTR. Perhaps try toggling the lines and see if there is a change in voltage. Perhaps these cables are soldered incorrectly and are wired to a different line.
I suspected that too. I opened mine up and confirmed the connections are correct, at least according to what's printed on the board.
ok. sounds like a clone or a PL2303. I wonder if we could salvage some use out of them. So confirming a Break signal, TX=0v, might be useful. Seeing if we could control any of the other lines would be helpful too.