JP1 Remotes

friendlyfire · Joined: 21 Nov 2005 Posts: 55

Hi, thanks for the excellent forum.
I hope someone can help me with a problem. I have a URC8811 which I successully program with a parallel cable. I believe this remote is a JP1.1 but I am not sure about that. I also have a remote that came with my Shaw (Motorola) set top box and it has a connector labeled JP1.3. I would like to hack this remote.

I tried to connect my cable to the Shaw remote and the connection fails. I did some reading on the forum and found a note that it is necessary to disable pin 5 on the JP1.3 remote. I bent that pin back so it doesn't make a connection, but the interface check still fails.

I am using a fresh version of IR and I've tried new batteries in the Shaw remote. The Shaw remote appears to be working normally.

What should I try next? Do I need a different cable perhaps?

thanks a lot
FF

speaker.guy · Exile Island Resident Joined: 17 Apr 2007 Posts: 260

The cable that you use on the 8811 is a (older) JP1 cable. I suspect you need a DIFFERENT JP1.x cable for the Shaw remote. Your Shaw remote could be either an Atlas (likely) or some variant of it.

friendlyfire · Joined: 21 Nov 2005 Posts: 55

wow, thanks for the lightning fast reply.
some new info. I have an older shaw remote that I just dug up, and I can talk to it. I think it is a Millenium 3. The other Shaw remote (JP1.3) appears to be an Atlas XL-1047. Am I correct to assume that both there remotes can be reprogrammed and exhanced like my URC8811?

regarding a new cable, well I was going to get a new one just because I'd like to switch to USB so I can use my laptop instead. Is there a cable that will support all these remotes via USB?

thanks again,
FF

Capn Trips · Expert Joined: 03 Oct 2003 Posts: 3990

I strongly suggest that you review THIS POST and THIS TABLE.

Your JP1.3 remote (1047) is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT (interface-wise) from your other JP1 remote (8811). It does not matter which JP1 cable you get, it will never work with the JP1.3 remote.

Conversely, a JP1.x or 1.2 cable will never work with your 8811.
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friendlyfire · Joined: 21 Nov 2005 Posts: 55

aha, thanks for the references, that clears it up for me.

MaximusPlank · Joined: 29 Aug 2004 Posts: 87 Location: Southern California

I also have an Atlas 1047 remote that as of this date does not have JP1.x support but I can confirm it is NOT JP1 compatible and therefore will not work with your parallel JP1 cable (eventhough mine is marked JP1). So far I have not had to work on the Atlas because I have so many other compatible JP1 remotes around the house (at least 15). I have accidentally purchased several JP1.x remotes so someday I'll have to bite the bullet and make a cable to deal with them.

You can purchase a cable that will do JP1.all (with minor mods) but to be clear, you need a separate cable to do both JP1 and JP1.x.

You can also make a cable yourself which is half the fun of JP1 btw, but... There have been several updates to the JP1.x cable designs (thanks Tommy!). The latest one may not be buildable on a single basis or practical to do at home because it involves "making" a double sided circuit board or "purchasing" the same board in bulk (18). There is an older design that is made with perforated board but (correct me if I'm wrong guys), Tommy mentioned that it is obsolete (not sure why). My take on all of this is that the new "Ultra" design is the best but you will have to convert it to perf board design to build single units at home, definately do-able.

Tommy Tyler · Posted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 5:36 pm Post subject:

Whoa! If you click on "Download" from the file page linked by "Tommy mentioned that it is obsolete" in Maximus' post, you get a design using three discrete transistors (or four, if you make it to accommodate the JP1.1). That design is not really "obsolete", and I'm not the one who added that comment NOTE to the page. If you click on "Click here" as the NOTE suggests, you will download a later design that uses an integrated circuit and resistor arrays (all surface mount parts) to make it simpler and more reliable, IF you can afford to build 25 to 100 of them. Otherwise, the transistor design is still valid, and does everything the later design does.

If you want to build the IC version from the schematic in the later version, but using ordinary through-hole components (the kind you can see with the naked eye) just substitute a 14-pin DIP 74HC266 IC for the surface mount version, a 16-pin DIP 4.7Kx8 resistor array (isolated, not bussed) for the two resistor arrays, and any garden variety leaded components for the two caps and 100K resistor. That will give you a 5-component JP1X interface rather than the 17 components in the transistor design. There is no design of a perf board layout for this, so if you make one be sure and post details and pics to inspire others.

Tommy

MaximusPlank · Joined: 29 Aug 2004 Posts: 87 Location: Southern California

MaximusPlank · Joined: 29 Aug 2004 Posts: 87 Location: Southern California

Well, the light bulb has just turned on with the help of the PM to Rob.

The "minor" detail I missed is that the surface mount (Ultra) design truly does JP1.x (ALL of them) whereas the discrete component perf board design only does JP1.1 and JP1.2 (AFAIK). It's back to the drawing board for home builders. Thanks Rob for pointing out that important detail and thanks Tommy for your simple tips on how to convert the Ultra to home build design.

Capn Trips · Expert Joined: 03 Oct 2003 Posts: 3990