JP1 Remotes

I didn't know were to post this so i will try here. When changing the batteries on my 15-2146 i noticed the 6 pads and JP1 next to it. I did a search but didn't find any post with about the 15-2146 being JP1. The pads are in a bad location as they are in the center of the 4 battery compartment. I decided to open up the remote and on the circuit board it says URC6135BJ0 15-2145. So what should be my next step in exploring this new remote besides getting some pogo pins?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... 2103083&cp

Get yourself some pogo-pins and then download the memory to see what it looks like. At that point, you'll need some help from us to get a new RDF created.

I have that Remote, and have never noticed what the OP is talking about until now.

As the OP said, you have to remove the batteries to expose it. It's just 6 pads, with no holes, so I don't know how you would solder anything to it.

I have an adapter that changes my female JP1 cable to a male, and using that, I can't get IR.EXE to talk to this remote.

I'll try other experiments if anybody has any ideas.

Jack

is there enough room under the batteries for a connector?

If so, take a standard 6-pin header, bend the bottom to shape like an "L" with the legs pointing out and then solder them directly to the pads. Then take some epoxy or hot glue and glue the pins to the circuit board for some added strength.

That's how I did my Kameleon's and it works fine. (but they are not obstructed by the batteries) If the batteries are in the way then this remote is going to be tricky to power and run the tools.

I don't think there's enough room, but the OP is probably a youngster with much better eyesight than this senior citizen.

I'll be watching, to see what comes of this. I had no idea it was a JP1 remote, and have in fact told people that it wasn't. It does seem to have a lot of learning memory.

Jack

irs009 wrote:I have that Remote, and have never noticed what the OP is talking about until now.

As the OP said, you have to remove the batteries to expose it. It's just 6 pads, with no holes, so I don't know how you would solder anything to it.

I have an adapter that changes my female JP1 cable to a male, and using that, I can't get IR.EXE to talk to this remote.

I'll try other experiments if anybody has any ideas.

Jack

When you say that you have a JP1 adapter, you are probably just referring to an unsoldered 6-pin connector. Most JP1 vendors include just such a 6-pin with their cables when they sell them, in case somebody with a remote such as the URC-7800, RCU810 or URC-9960 wants to try soldering it into their remote.

Using a 6-pin as an adapter as you described doesn't generally work because it's hard to get all 6 pins to make contact at the same time. The recommended approach is to use a pogo-pin adapter where the pins are spring-mounted.

The next question is whether this is a JP1.x remote or a JP1 remote, as this would dictate which cable you should use to test the remote. Is there anything printed by the 6-pad connector?

If it is a JP1.x remote, using JP1 with it could be tricky because you need to have batteries in the remote for the serial cable to work.

It seems to say JP1 next to the pads but Tony would have to verify that since he has disassembled the remote.

There doesn't seem to be anyway to use a connector if you must have the batteries installed.

I have nothing else to offer, we'll have to see what Tony comes up with.

Jack

irs009 wrote:I have that Remote, and have never noticed what the OP is talking about until now.

As the OP said, you have to remove the batteries to expose it. It's just 6 pads, with no holes, so I don't know how you would solder anything to it.

I have an adapter that changes my female JP1 cable to a male, and using that, I can't get IR.EXE to talk to this remote.

I'll try other experiments if anybody has any ideas.

Jack

To summarize the various observations/comments already provided:

Your test doesn't necessarily prove or disprove anything about the remote.

(1) Just using a 6-pin header to try to connect to the pads is a shaky proposition at best. You need a pogo pin adapter (or to solder in the header). The latter appears to be difficult due to the location of the pads under the batteries;
(2) Even if you make a proper connection, this remote MAY (not necessarily guaranteed) require that it be powered (i.e. batteries in place) to communicate via JP1, so that may be the cause of the failure to communicate; and/or
(3) It might be a JP1.x rather than JP1 (the "lot of learning memory" comment may support the possibility that this is a JP1.x - can't tell). But if that's the case, then whether or not issues (1) and (2) above apply, you would need the JP1.x cable and your JP1 cable would not work.

So any combination of the three issues above may pertain in your case.

I have uploaded some pics so you guys can take a look at it. I am sure it says JP1 not JP1.x next to the pads.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=4209

I haven't had much luck finding pogo pins. The only vendor i found asked me what size and i didn't know what to say. Does anyone know were i can get a pre made adapter for sale? If not it might be easier to solder some wires to the pads then to a 6 pin connector . There seems to be a lot of room next the battery compartments to put a 6 pin connector.

Ether way i won't have much time to mess with it until Monday.

Once i do get a connection to the remote do i use ir.exe to download the memory or a different program

Considering the time and expense of getting pogo pins i have decided to just solder some pins onto the pads.

I used ir.exe and tried to connect the remote and download without batteries all i got was SDA was held low. So i went to radio shack and got a battery holder. Now i get "The remote is not acknowledging signals from the interface." when i swap around the interface i get SDA is held low. Another thing to note is that when it is connected to the interface none of the buttons will light up until it is removed.

I went over the and checked the connections with a ohm meter and all was fine. I also checked to make sure that none of them were cross soldered. I am stuck as what do try next. Oh I am using a USB interface if that makes a difference.