JP1 Remotes

[milanbagel]

Tried everything that came with my URC-8910 without sucess. Here is the template info:

1. Device model#: Westinghouse LVM-42w2
2. 42' LCD TV Monitor
3.Year: 2006
4.UEI: URC-8910
5.JPI Cable?: No but is on order
6. I have original remote
7. Checked file section-No info
8. Checked Pronto-No info.
9. I can use learning feature to make L1 turn monitor on and off.
10: Need code; My cable remote works with 0111 but the URC-8910 says not available.

Any experience out there?

Milan Roselle, IL

[Mark Pierson]

[MaskedMan]

Give Tv code 0000 a try.
_________________
Edmund

[milanbagel]

The cable box is a Motorola DCT-3416. The Comcast remote (no mod. number that I can see) works on the monitor using 0111. The 0717 code doesn't work

[The Robman]

Do you see your Comcast remote here?
http://www.comcast.com/remotes/
_________________
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!

[milanbagel]

Rob, Comcast remote is the 3 in 1 dVR device.

[johnsfine]

All the Comcast remotes I've ever seen had some indication of which company made them, usually on the front, but maybe on the back and mabe inside the battery cover.

Most of the ones I've seen were AT&T, some UEI, and two other brands (that I've forgotten at the moment).

Hopefully one of the other experts knows whether UEI put a setup code offset in the Comcast models. But you may be able to deduce that yourself, see below.

If you have a Comcast remote and there is no offset, then TV/0111 is a setup code for Sony TV's. That's a bit surprising for a "Westinghouse". Sony doesn't cross-brand much. A device using Sony IR signals is almost always Sony brand.

The basic setup code for Sony TV's is 0000 (Edmund's suggestion above). Most Sony TV setup codes are mostly the same, so if TV/0111 works in one UEI remote then TV/0000 ought to mostly work in another.

Similarly TV/0000 is a good way to identify rebranded UEI remotes and to find the setup code offset, if you have a setup code list for your remote. USA models of UEI remote almost certainly contain TV/0000. If there is a setup code offset it won't be 0000, but it will be the lowest numbered setup code.

Check the instructions for your Comcast remote. Look up Sony TV in those instructions. What is the lowest setup code number for a Sony TV? Do any other brands have any setup codes with lower numbers?

Edit: While I was typing above, you answered Rob:

[milanbagel]

Hello again Gents: Well, it looks like 0000 actually does work. Directionality makes a big difference. The spatial relationship between the remote and the monitor is very critical. I will have to live with it. Thanks for the help.

Just as a sidelight, I guess this Westinghouse monitor is manufactured by Sony since it uses the same codes?

[johnsfine]

1) Check the position of the IR LED in the 8910. It should stick through the hole in the case a little, into the dent in the end of the case (that protects the LED if the remote is bumped on the end without blocking the IR).
I think I read that some people have found the LED was bent (so it doesn't stick out of the hole) so much of the IR is blocked inside the case. If so, get the instructions for opening the 8910 case so you can fix that.

2) Check the batteries in thr 8910. It should have a strong signal, so it should work over a wide range of distances and angles.

[milanbagel]

The batteries are new. All check 1.5V plus. I opened the remote and pushed the LED as far forward as possible. No effect on performance. The Comcast remote is also spacially sensitive with the TV Monitor. Both work fine on the cable box. Finally, the remote that come with the monitor works in any position and room location. Could there be a higher power LED in it? This is driving me buggy! I see that Radio Shack sell a high power IR LED p/n 276-143. Is it worth trying to change it out?

[johnsfine]

I'm not sure what "high power" means in an IR LED, but having read many spec sheets, I have a couple guesses, either of which would mean it wouldn't help:

1) Best guess: "high power" is total BS and there is no difference between that and an ordinary IR LED.

2) 2'nd best guess: "high power" means it has the same IR ouput per unit of current that you put through it, but it has better thermal capacity, so you can put a high current through it for longer without cooking it. So you could design a new remote based on it and design for higher current. But an existing remote wouldn't have higher current through such an LED.

You also shouldn't assume that the original LED in the 8910 wasn't high power.

LED's also have different voltages. You need one designed for the same voltage as the original. The remote is designed for fairly stable current through the LED across a moderate range of voltages, but it is nothing like a theoretical current source. A higher voltage LED would get less current and be much weaker (or maybe off entirely). A lower voltage LED would burn out.

[MaskedMan]

There used to be link to westinghouse site that gave a bunch of codes for different remotes, but all codes were the Sony code in those respective remotes.

There are westinghouse models that don't respond to the sony code, and no other preset codes in oem remotes like tivo peanut & white dtv remotes.
_________________
Edmund

[johnsfine]

Do the learned signals have the same problem?

I see you mentioned L1 earlier. You aren't limited to learning on just the L1 to L4 buttons. You can learn on almost any button.

I'm not suggesting that as a solution, just for investigation.

Maybe they did something strange like using the Sony signal structure but a different modulation frequency. A learned signal would duplicate the original frequency. TV/0000 or TV/0111 would have the nominal Sony frequency.

Recently I've been reading the spec sheets on a bunch of IR sensors. I don't know if I'm understanding them correctly, but they seem to indicate that each 10% delta in frequency cuts the maximum range in half (20% cuts it to 1/4, 30% to 1/8). Similarly if the remote is 25 degrees away from straight out from the sensor that cuts range in half (but that one is nonlinear: 50 degrees cuts to below 1/4).

The range is also cut (in a way that varies a lot by model of IR LED) by how many degrees off the amining of the remote is from directly at the IR sensor.

Multiply together a few of those decreases in range and you might not have much range left.

Of course I don't know how well the real word fits those specs.

[e.axel]

I'm on the road at the moment, so I can't check anything, but I started wtih 0000 and had the same "spatial" problem. Look for my post on the Westinghouse 32W1 to get the other code set that works a lot better

[milanbagel]

I looked through the two 32W1 postings but couldn't find anything on the spatial issue.

Just to reiterate, the remote that came with the Westinghouse monitor works in any position and at any distance. The URC-8910 and the Comcast remote, both have this spatial problem but it's only there when used on the TV monitor. Both work as expected on the cable box.

A final comment; this lack of sensitivity exhibits itself on all TV modes i.e. volume adjustments also require a specific physical position too. Finally, I'm now convinced it isn't an IR LED power out issue since the problem exists even with the remote(s) only 24" from the monitor iR input.

I can see that all of you are well experienced in working with remotes. My 70 year old brain is having trouble handling all of this incoming data. I really appreciate your assistance and am convinced that someone will come up with a solution!