JP1 Remotes

I bought one of each from buy.com recently.

Office part numbers:

URC-6820B00
URC-6131nB00

The 6820 has the 6 pin header, but it's JP1.2 so uses the new flash and I've confirmed it is NOT compatible with current JP1.

[UPDATE: the URC-6820 *is* compatible with JP1 now]

The other thing I noticed is that the 6 pin header is rotated 180' from my other JP1 remote (which is a Maestro II). So when the JP1 cable plugs into the 6820, the ribbon cable run towards the top of the remote instead of of the bottom. (Not sure if this is different or if older URC remotes are the same way.)

Overall the 6820 learns very well compared to a Philips/Magnavox 5-device, learning remote (that I'm going to pitch). I had a lot of problems with the Philips/Magnavox unit. It was hard to get it to learn and some codes and it would not play them back perfectly. Also would lock up and go into an infinite transmit look and drain the batteries down.

The 6820 seems to learn very easily in comparison.


The 6131n does not have the 6 pin header, but does have the holes which are silk screened as "JP1" and not "JP1.2".
I've not opened it up yet but if it takes a 24C16 EEPROM then I may pull it apart and try to solder one in.
I'm curious to see if I solder in the EEPROM (24C16) is there a way to get the remote to have learning capability like the 6820?

The new 6131n is definitely JP1 compatible if you solder in the EEPROM and 6-pin (I've done it). Functionalitywise it's identical to the old 6131, so no learning.

Thanks for the info Rob.

Do you know if there are any instructions on how to open or disassemble the 6131n?

Not yet there aren't. Normally, I just direct people to the following generic instructions, but if this remote is tricky for me to open, I can only image how hard it will be for less experienced folks. So, I do intend to try and write something up.

I found a very easy way to open this remote without damaging or marking the remote in any way.


1) Remove the 3 Philips head screws


2) Use a screw driver or simply apply force by pulling the two pieces apart at the end that is closest to the battery to separate the top and bottom a little bit. Just enough to get about a 1mm separation at the sides.

If using a screwdriver to separate it, be careful not to damage the CPU that is close to the bottom end of the remote. (I accidently scraped the black epoxy covering the CPU a little bit when I put the screwdriver in. Try to avoid doing that.)



3) Use the packaging that the remote came in and cut it into two plastic strips about 6cm x 1cm.




4) Put the two plastic strips together so the overlap completely and then put the end into the 1mm separation on the side.


5) Push the two strips forward hard and the notches holding the top and bottom together should pop open. (this is basically a leveraging technique to apply a large amount of "pull-apart" force without prying with a screwdriver.)


If it doesn't open up, stick a small screwdriver between the two pieces of plastic so it doesn't marr the sides. Pushing down between the two strips should pop the notch.


It takes about 2 minutes to open up a remote in this way.

(updated with pictures)

I wish this had been posted a few months ago when I tried to take mine apart!!

To help soften the edges, and cover the scratches, I have strips of black electrical tape covering the sides. It also wraps over the top and bottom a bit. I don't use the remote on a regular basis, so I don't know how it'll hold up under constant use. I have it as a backup. With it's SETUP button being normal (it's recessed on my normally used 8910 and 8811), and no extender installed, it's great for EFC code searching.