Running 2117 Command Center from 230/240V

pgk · Post by **pgk** » Fri Sep 10, 2004 1:12 am

I got a few of the 2117s from Rob and being UK based the command centers weren't much use without an Auto Transformer, which all seem fairly expensive. So I thought I'd take a look and see if I could get it running on 230/240V. It turned out pretty straightforward so for anyone who is interested here is a pdf document showing what I did.

classicsat · Post by **classicsat** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 7:32 am

One can probably use a DC transformer as low as 9V. If you run it through the bridge rectifiers, polarity won't matter.

pgk · Post by **pgk** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 7:48 am

Yes, you probably can (It's what I did initially), but you then need to be get the polarity on the socket right (Correction when I did this initially I bypassed the bridge rectifier, so I had to make sure I got the polarity right, it should make a difference if it's connect through the rectifier).

What also isn't shown it that most of the circuit is powered through U1 (a 5V regulator), but just past the bridge rectifier is connected via a link (JP1) to the IR LEDS, so dropping the voltage may impact the effective range of the command centre.

streetskater · Post by **streetskater** » Thu Sep 30, 2004 1:43 am

As ever this is one of the most resourceful...ah...resources on the internet.

That damn "command center" has been around since the flood. Years ago when I thought I'd never have enough 15-1994's & 15-1995's I bought a peck of the 15-1995's as they were discontinued and marked down eventually to about 5 bucks (which price included that very same command center). I donned me backpack and trekked through the 5 NYC boroughs snatching them up by the handful...Anyway if I had a pence for every Command Center I now own I'd be a rich man today.....I've actually figured out ways of disbursing them throughout my crib so that I don't have to point my remotes at all. I can bury them under a mattress and the signals still find their way via IR and RF to their targets.

...further ramblings...
I, ah, lived in Texas when Tandy Corp was just emerging as a crafts outlet--they sold cowhides, snakeskins, and leather tooling stuff. When they embarked into electronics it was Capitalist Cowboyism at it's best. They've lost quite a bit of that look & feel over the years but I must say that to the extent that we use their remotes here on JP1 we keep a core of that hobbyist "can do" spirit alive in a way that it exists in few other places--nice to see that it's international--with a few voltage tweaks

Cammo · Post by **Cammo** » Tue Nov 16, 2004 7:41 pm

I have just got into the JP1 thing, and I am stunned and amazed at what can be done with these remotes! I have configured one 8811 and two 9910 (connecting back to 1 command centre at the home theatre) for all house control - the 8811 is for local home theatre control, the two 9910's for remote rooms. I also did the power mod mentioned above which seemed to work perfectly, the problem is that the command centre seems to be continuously spewing out erroneous IR commands which is affecting my normal IR control - commands are only recognized about 50% of the time for some stereo components, and some components wont work at all. Everything works perfectly when using one of the 9910s, but as I also have some components controlled by a home automation IR controller, I cannot just use a 9910 for local control. I have tried taping the inside of the window of the control centre so that only one IR LED can see through, but this didnt make any difference.

Any suggestions from the incredibly intelligent people on this forum?

streetskater · Post by **streetskater** » Tue Nov 16, 2004 7:58 pm

Yeah I think what you're experiencing is a kind of Star Wars Laser Light battle going on--in the invisible spectrum. If both the Command Center and the Remote itself are vieing for the same broadcast realestate they can cancel each other out. I don't have a great solution for that other than:
Placement, Placement, Placement. i.e., trial and error till you find what works.

This problem seems to be specific to the Command Centers. If you were to use the Rat-shack Pyramids, for instance, you probably wouldn't get those signal clashes.

Cammo · Post by **Cammo** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 3:18 pm

Thanks streetskater - I was hoping there might be some funky fix using some kind of filters or something. Its very disappointing - if this problem didnt exist, it would be the perfect solution. Oh well, back to the drawing board.

Post by **The Robman** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 4:06 pm

You could try this mod:
RadioShack 15-2117 IR babble

streetskater · Post by **streetskater** » Sun Nov 21, 2004 8:42 am

IR Babble
The title says it all

Definately a fix I'll be trying. (the R24 330K -->to 240K)
BUT
Who can keep up with all this stuff. I'm still trying to sort my way through DVArchiving my Replay. 2 weeks ago I hadn't even heard the term before....

Post by **The Robman** » Sun Nov 21, 2004 10:06 am

You can't keep up with everything, sometimes you have to pick and chose. I used to be right on top of ReplayTV stuff, and hackable DVD players, but then I got sidetracked by JP1!

And even in the JP1 world, I can't keep up with everything, so I'm happy to let others be the experts in certain areas.

Cammo · Post by **Cammo** » Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:44 pm

Thanks for the link Robman - that fix sounds perfect! After having a look at R24, the size of the componentry means the upgrade is a bit daunting, but I think Im willing to give it a go anyway. I could not find any resistors in the same form factor as the current one (I think from the RC post that its a 0805 sized package?) - the only ones I coud find were the bigger ones where it looks like an elongated sausage with wires sticking out each end. The closest I could find was a 1/4w 220k Carbon Film 5% Tolerance E12 - do you know if this will still work? Thanks again for the great help! Cheers, Cameron

Post by **The Robman** » Tue Nov 23, 2004 9:52 pm

What you're looking for are surface mount "SMD Chip" resistors like this one ...

Rather than the carbon film type you were looking at...

Click here for more info on resistors.

zaphod7501 · Post by **zaphod7501** » Tue Nov 23, 2004 9:53 pm

It's usually easier to bridge a chip resistor than to remove and replace it. In other words tack a 910k resistor accross the existing resistor (approx value - I think 920k is a standard value - the result ends up about 243k ohms). Your "elongated sausage" is a leaded component as described in Rob's link. If you solder one side , let it cool , then do the other end , it shouldn't cause the original to come off the board. You can bend the leads to match the width of the original resistor. If you do find a surface mount resistor they can be soldered on top of each other for the purpose of bridging fairly easily also.

streetskater · Post by **streetskater** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 1:47 pm

The Robman wrote:You can't keep up with everything, sometimes you have to pick and chose. I used to be right on top of ReplayTV stuff, and hackable DVD players, but then I got sidetracked by JP1!

And even in the JP1 world, I can't keep up with everything, so I'm happy to let others be the experts in certain areas.

Next you'll be telling me, There is no Santa Clause!
Dr Rob,
I think of you as being the Grand Master of everything JP1. I simply refuse to believe you are not All Knowing in this arena.
I also thought you founded JP1 and THEN moved into the ReplayTV Stuff. Are you saying it was actually the other way around!