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Need Help with a HouseLinc RDF file
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jon_armstrong
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 4:19 pm    Post subject: Need Help with a HouseLinc RDF file Reply with quote

I have an earlier version of this device, but the Processor and EEPROM are the same as the 15-1925. I found the schematic to the 1995 in the files and it had the pin out to the JP1 connection and after a bit of drilling and soldering, it's now a JP1 device. When I downloaded the EEPROM into IR it gave me a choice for a URC-7070 or the 1925/1918/1919. If I choose either one, I get conflict at fixed data address $001E.

Any ideas as to how to figure out the RDF? The EEPROM image is here
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Save a copy of one of the relevant RDFs, and then change the fixed data required at $1E to "F8 FF FF" and you should be all set.
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Rob
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jon_armstrong
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rob, that did it.

BTW, I think that this uses the old three digit setup codes. Does IR automatically adjust for that, or is there anything I need to do?
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even though the remote might use 3 digit setup codes in the manual programming process, the data still gets stored in the same way regardless, so there's no difference from an IR perspective.
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jon_armstrong
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The software for the device has an "ini" file that is in text and can be modified.

So, assuming the software that controls the device doesn't have a problem with a four digit setup code, does the remote secretly understand it or does it just truncate the top bits?

This isn't very important, but I am trying to understand what I am dealing with.


TIA
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mr_d_p_gumby
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The EEPROM format is capable of storing setup codes up to 2047. I know the remote itself only allows entry of three digit setup codes. I would have to test if it observes setup codes beyond 999, but it probably does.

However, I have no idea if it would accept four-digit setup codes via the 3-pin interface (which I presume is how the HouseLinc software talks to the remote). If I had to guess, I'd say no, only because the same philosophy that created the remote's keyboard inteface was likely used in writing the 3-pin interface firmware.

Now that you've used my schematic to add a JP1 connector, maybe you could do us a favor and tell us how the 3-pin connector is wired? Wink
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jon_armstrong
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike,

Thanks for the info AND the schematic. I didn't focus on the bottom right of the page to see that you did that. Very impressive!

That same processor and EEPROM are in the HomeLinc, but they are mounted on a 5" x 7" PCB with all the other components so there is no 3-pin interface. It also does x10, has 4 zones of IR, and even a digital IO that uses an RJ45 jack. There are optional video sensors, led sensors, etc. to see if the gear being controlled is on, so you don't send a power toggle when apready on. So there are a lot of other unrelated components on that board.

I think the hardware is really the variant out of the URC-6050, that IIUC, has the three pin, but not the 6-pin interface. If Rob has one in his museum that would answer the question. The reason I say that is there is a picture of the 6050 remote in the PC based setup routine.

My reverse engineering skills are pretty minimal by comparison to yours, but if there is an area I should look at or take pictures, I'll be glad to help solve the puzzle.

A couple of other questions, I could only read the EEPROM with the power On on the device. I assume that when I disconnect the JP1 connector, it resets but I have removed the power to the unit and disconnected its backup battery to make sure. Do you think that step is necessary?

The reason I'm asking is that SmartHome quit supporting this device with upgrades and I was going to let a SmartLinc user group know it was JP1 compatible and provide some instructions.

Also there is no particular reason to mount a JP1 connector for most people that have this device. Could they just directly connect the simple interface to a DB 25 connector without the JP1 plug/connector, or would the circuitry in the JP1 cable keep it from resetting (or otherwise affect it)?
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jon_armstrong
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have answered most of my own questions experimenting with upgrades. You don't need to interrupt power to insure a reset. I can leave the JP1 interface plugged in to the computer, and it works fine. I do have the older simple design with, IIRC, 10k resistors.

The software won't accept a four digit upgrade, but so what!
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Dabbith



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon,
I have this same device, so if there's anything I can test for you let me know. Also, can you tell me which SmartLinc user group you were refering to?

Thanks,

Dan
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jon_armstrong
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2004 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dabbith wrote:
Jon,
I have this same device, so if there's anything I can test for you let me know. Also, can you tell me which SmartLinc user group you were refering to?00


The forum is a user group at the Homeseer forum that has sections for each supported device. It is a very comprehensive Home Automation package.

Did you do (or had you already done) a JP1 mod? Best I can tell in limited testing it works well. Only a 1K EEPROM, but at least the HomeSeer software can just send out macros like Sony TV; Magic Key; 113, so you can just do a "no button" upgrade. I have also posted some perhaps obvious instructions at that link on how to use it.
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Dabbith



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hadn't done a JP1 mod, though I'd often wondered if it was possible. I knew it was based on a OFA remote. I'll definitely try. I'd actually stopped using my HouseLinc because I couldn't control several devices and the X10 portion stopped working. It'll definitely get some more use now. I did have SmartLinc add a device, so it'll be interesting to download the EEPROM. Now if I can just find the time to learn to code new protocols for it I could control everything.
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dmoos



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 2:21 pm    Post subject: JP1 and Houselink Reply with quote

I have just added a JP1 connector to my Smartlinc Houselinc and tried to download the code from the EEPROM, I modified the RDF file because the chip in my Houselink is at 16K chip. (EepromSize=$4000)
I also get an error saying there is a conflict at fixed data address $001E. Can anyone assist me with what changes would need to be made to the rdf file to support this Houselink
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johnsfine
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In order to give any help at building an RDF file, we would need to see the eeprom image.

Upload that file to the diagnosis area and post its URL back here.

When IR.exe complains about things in the eeprom image it is changing things. So the image you already downloaded may not be good enough.

Hide any matching or near matching RDF (rename or use a different directory) and download again from the remote. When IR.exe complains there is no matching RDF, it will still allow you to save the eeprom image as a .ir file. That file should be an unmodified copy of what it downloaded.
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can skip using the RDFs without needing to rename them.
Go to Advanced > Enable Raw Download then use the new "Raw Download" button to download without going through the RDF.

When you say the chip is 16k, what is that based on? I would be VERY surprised if you have a 16k BYTES chip, I'm guessing that you have a 16k BITS chip (eg, 24C16) which means you have what we call a 2k chip (ie, EepromSize=$800).
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dmoos



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2007 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rob, you are quite correct it is a 24LC16B /P, I didn't realize that was bits and not bytes. That answers a few questions for me. I just posted the raw file at http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=4997 Thanks for the very quick respose times!!
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