JP1 Remotes

ylaviolette · Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 134

Thanks for the additional info. Would you mind pointing me to any eBay or Amazon link even in UK for the correct Nano? I will use it as a reference to order here. Thx again!

ylaviolette · Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 134

Just need to confirm if it's the Atmega168P or 328P model see example link below, does this look right?
Would any/all of these work?

Pretty cheap so worth the risk but will wait for your feedback before ordering.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPs6FqQ

Barf · Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 1:03 pm Post subject:

@ylaviolette: Again: The Arduino (in the configuration described) operates on JP1 (EEPROM) remotes, not JP1.x. It is not an alternative to a standard "cable". EEPROM are (AFAIAA) old enough for making their drivers license Wink

The Arduino on Aliexpress looks fine. Note that you can get the board with USB mini, micro or C connector. Of course, the latter alternative is the best one, by far.

And build a few of these and these while you are at it. Cool

ylaviolette · Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 134

Yes thank you, I only have URC-9910s so all should be good.
The other cable (JP1.x) is quite cheap as well so will order one if eventually needed. Order on the way, will try to report back if this works as expected.
Cheers,

ylaviolette · Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 134

And just to be clear on the process, once this is done:

(1) Make yourself a JP1 cable - for example by cutting up an IDE cable.
View from the front of the female plug on the cable:
+----------+ JP1 Wire pinout on remote:
/ 1 3 5 | 1 - Vdd U1 2 - Vdd U2
| 2 4 6 | 3 - Ground 4 - Serial Data (SDA)
+-----------+ 5 - Reset 6 - Serial Clock (SCL)

(2) Connect the wires from this cable as follows:
- connect 1 and 2 together
- connect 3 to Arduino Ground
- connect 4 (SDA) to Arduino Analog Pin 4
- connect 5 (Reset) to Arduino Ground
NOTE: you will need to unplug the remote from the cable to use it.
- connect 6 (SCL) to Arduino Analog Pin 5

The connection between the Arduino and PC is simply via the PC usb port and the arduino USB port right? nothing in between.

Then I upload the sketch and run RMIR.

No difference if I order the Atmega1 128P or 328p model?

Thanks!

The Robman · Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 2:59 pm Post subject:

mathdon · Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 6:07 am Post subject:

Barf · Posted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 7:45 am Post subject:

ylaviolette · Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 134

So would this be an accurate representation?

The arduino board takes 3-10V DC so I assume the resistors are not needed.

To anyone following this thread and/or familiar with the Arduino approach
Let me know if this makes sense.

If it does, I will report back once tested so the board can be confirmed as working.

mathdon · Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2023 12:53 pm Post subject:

Yes, your representation is correct. You don't actually have to join pins 3 and 5 together as there is another GND in the row of holes on the other edge. If you are cutting up an old cable then it might be easier to connect each wire to a different pin of the Arduino. You are getting a 328P, I hope, in view of Barf's comment.
_________________
Graham

ylaviolette · Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 134

Thanks for confirming!
Yes 328p on the way from AliNotSoExpress, will report back once tested.
Cheers,

GTTech · Joined: 14 Feb 2023 Posts: 11

Just wanted to butt in here and say that I seem to have a cable that works perfectly on a 3660 / 3661, as well as a 1240, but not at all a 1210 or 7935

They can be a bit weird and picky

mathdon · Posted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 6:14 am Post subject:

I don't know the URC1210, it doesn't seem to be supported yet by RMIR, so don't know what processor it has. But the behaviour with your other remotes suggests to me that your cable has a Prolific chip, not an FTDI one. When did you last try it with your 1210 or 7935? Incompatibilities between a Prolific chip and certain processors have been fixed in recent RMIR versions.
_________________
Graham

ylaviolette · Joined: 17 Feb 2009 Posts: 134