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jim_henry_esq
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Joined: 03 Aug 2003
Posts: 26
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 Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 3:05 pm Post subject: Prolific USB cable on Amazon as of January 2023 |
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I used this Prolific USB cable available for quick delivery from Amazon as of January 2023:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C524K56
It worked with RMIR on Windows 10 without issues.
I split the 1x6 shell with a razor knife and taped the two pieces together to make a JP1 connector.
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
Posts: 21469
Location: Chicago, IL
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 3:54 pm Post subject: Re: Prolific USB cable on Amazon as of January 2023 |
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| jim_henry_esq wrote: | | I split the 1x6 shell with a razor knife and taped the two pieces together to make a JP1 connector. |
That's a good idea, that will save folks having to buy some 2*3 IDC connectors. The IDCs are cheap, but you usually have to buy like 50 of them.
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Rob
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mdavej
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Joined: 08 Oct 2003
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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| I find the 6 individual connectors much easier to assemble into a 2x3 configuration. since no cutting or pin removal is required. I also find the FTDI chips much more compatible and reliable than Prolific. Lastly, the 6 pin FTDI cables on ebay are cheaper and include transmit and receive LEDs. |
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jim_henry_esq
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Joined: 03 Aug 2003
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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I shied away from the FTDI cable because I saw something that suggested there might be some issue with Windows 10 requiring an updated driver. Is that still an issue?
Having changed a 1x6 to the Frankenstein 2x2.5 and to a proper 2x3 shell, I can see the benefit of having six single pin connectors that you wrangle into a 2x3 configuration.
FTDI cables are also available on Amazon for those who prefer shopping there.
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
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Location: Chicago, IL
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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We have a much better track record with FTDI cables than Prolific, but Graham made some changes to one of the RMIR programs that improved how it handles Prolific cables, so I think they're even now.
Dave, while the chip_partner cables had red and green LEDs that were nice, I didn't think that any of the current FTDI cables have LEDs.
As for the 2*3 IDCs, I see that the ebay listing for 40 of them is still good and it costs under $6, but it will take a month or two to arrive.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/263051820184
I do see an FTDI cable on Amazon for under $9, I wonder if this one would work just fine. And even though it shows a 1*6 IDC in the pic, apparently it comes with 6 individual connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/Ximimark-FT232RL-Serial-Adapter-Arduino/dp/B07T45CC8K
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Rob
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mdavej
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Joined: 08 Oct 2003
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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| jim_henry_esq wrote: | | I shied away from the FTDI cable because I saw something that suggested there might be some issue with Windows 10 requiring an updated driver. Is that still an issue? |
Never was. You're thinking of Prolific.
Good to hear that Prolific handling in RMIR has improved. But Prolific left such a bad taste in my mouth, I will never buy another.
With vendors on ebay changing constantly, it's hard to say which still have LEDs. I haven't bought a cable in years.
Regardless, the best option is still FTDI with individual pins for most of the reasons I posted. But I'm happy that you're happy with yours. |
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jim_henry_esq
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Joined: 03 Aug 2003
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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I got 10 2x3 DuPont housings for $5.99 including shipping from the US, delivered in 3 days, here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265505928399
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dtrump
Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Posts: 87
Location: Des Moines, IA
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| Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2023 10:46 pm Post subject: |
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I bought an eBay FTDI that had the 1x6 and had planned on doing what Jim suggested, cutting it in two and building the 2x3. But the housing was so cheap and having to move pins, the "flaps" broke off easily. So I ended up just splicing it to the cable that already had the 2x3 for my old serial adapter.
Likewise, to build my new JP1 EEPROM Arduino based adapter, I cannabalized my old parallel adapter cable.
After the fact, I realized that I had an FTDI to DB9 that I've carried in my laptop bag for years for AV programming & testing that I could have just added a matching female DB9 to the 2x3 cable and be done with it.
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ylaviolette
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mdavej
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| Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2023 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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| That would work. But I think the new Arduino build is the preferred (cheaper) solution for EEPROM these days. |
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ylaviolette
Joined: 17 Feb 2009
Posts: 134
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| Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2023 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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| mdavej wrote: | | That would work. But I think the new Arduino build is the preferred (cheaper) solution for EEPROM these days. |
couldn't find a clear plan and parts list to assemble the Arduino option.
Let me know if you have a link/decent plans/parts list.
Something visual ideally.
I'm Totally OK with soldering but no electronics expert either...
Thanks for your help! |
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mdavej
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| Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2023 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=143128
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=11537
I think you just need an Arduino of some sort plus a 10k resistor and the cable and plug for the remote side. This is taken from the included source code:
| Code: |
/***********************************************************************
Arduino sketch for programming of the original JP1 remotes
***********************************************************************
14 Mar 2012 by Tim6502
This is for the original JP1 remote control interface ONLY.
Not intended for JP1.1, 1.2, 1.3, etc. remotes!
See http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/help/ for background on
remote controls that are programmable via JP1.
The early JP1 remotes were programmable through the parallel port on PCs.
These days, parallel ports -as well as the original JP1 remotes- are
becoming increasingly rare (both being replaced by the USB kind).
Since at the moment I have a few more JP1 remotes (a handful) than
parallel ports in operation (zero), I had to find a way to program
updates for my audio-visual equipment lineup.
The Arduino can be accessed via USB and can also easily talk to the
EEPROM that contains the program for the JP1 remote. The software
for JP1/JP1.X programming does communicate via USB to a JP1 EEPROM
programmer firmware in order to program the original JP1 remotes.
It appears that the Arduino can easily be enlisted to cover the combo
of USB serial driver and JP1 EEPROM programmer. Since Kevin Timmerman's
JP1 EEPROM Programmer software was open-sourced (Thanks, Kevin!),
here we are!
Below are instructions and the Arduino sketch on how you can share the fun.
(1) Make yourself a JP1 cable - for example by cutting up an IDE cable.
View from the front of the female plug on the cable:
+----------+ JP1 Wire pinout on remote:
/ 1 3 5 | 1 - Vdd U1 2 - Vdd U2
| 2 4 6 | 3 - Ground 4 - Serial Data (SDA)
+-----------+ 5 - Reset 6 - Serial Clock (SCL)
(2) Connect the wires from this cable as follows:
- connect 1 and 2 together
- connect 3 to Arduino Ground
- connect 4 (SDA) to Arduino Analog Pin 4
- connect 5 (Reset) to Arduino Ground
NOTE: you will need to unplug the remote from the cable to use it.
- connect 6 (SCL) to Arduino Analog Pin 5
If the battery voltage in your remote is _higher_ than the voltage
in the Arduino, you also need to pull up the following JP1 lines
via a 10k Ohm resistor each, connected to the JP1 Vdd line 1 (or 2):
4 (SDA) and 6 (SCL).
(3) Attach the Arduino to your PC and upload this sketch.
When you run the RemoteMasterIR or IR programs, select
JP1.X Serial... interface.
Yes, even though this is for a non JP1.X remote!
Now you should be able to download and/or upload the EEPROM
content from or to your remote.
Note that after an upload, the Arduino will be restarted by the
RM / IR program. If you want to avoid this, you would need to
pull RESET high with an adequate resistor value, or -if using
an external USB-Serial TTL converter device, make connections
except for the line that will pull on RESET.
This sketch is directly based on assembler code from:
JP1 EEPROM Programming Adapter Firmware
Copyright (C) 2010 Kevin Timmerman
jp1epa [@t] compendiumarcana [d0t] com
http://www.compendiumarcana.com/jp1epa
For EEPROM communication this sketch uses example code by
davekw7x, March, 2011, which in turn was
derived from sketch for 24C64 devices posted on
http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/I2CEEPROM
from hkhijhe Date: 01/10/2010.
While this worked for me with a *duino Duemillanova clone and with a
URC 6131 remote using 2k 24C32 EEPROM chips (the default size this
sketch selects for EEPROMs), it has not been tested with other EEPROM
chips or other sizes.
More importantly, you should be aware that you are using these
instructions and code at your own risk. There are no guarantees
that this will work, or that it will not damage or blow up your
equipment (or yourself). You have been warned!
- Good luck!
This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or modify
it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by
the Free Software Foundation; either version 3 of the License, or
(at your option) any later version.
*/
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ylaviolette
Joined: 17 Feb 2009
Posts: 134
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| Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2023 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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Any recent links to a compatible/cheap arduino ?
Seems like the only one linked is this one
https://store.arduino.cc/products/arduino-mega-2560-rev3
at 45$ supporting only JP1 I guess I'm better off with one of my previous (almost) plug n play options, or am I missing something ?
Any way to do this via an ESP32 or ESP8266 as I have plenty of those lying around.... |
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mdavej
Expert
Joined: 08 Oct 2003
Posts: 4583
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| Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2023 7:39 pm Post subject: |
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| The extent of my Arduino knowledge ends at spelling it. |
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ylaviolette
Joined: 17 Feb 2009
Posts: 134
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| Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2023 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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Lol... Thanks for the feedback, will see if anyone jumps in the conversation before I make a move.
Cheers, |
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