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Radio Shack 15-1993

 
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johann83



Joined: 03 Aug 2003
Posts: 66
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

                    
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:42 am    Post subject: Radio Shack 15-1993 Reply with quote

Does anyone have any idea whether this remote can be made JP1 compatible? I know it supports learning, but I've never looked for a JP1 connection, nor opened it up to look for an EEPROM. I'm looking for a simple remote for my parents and since I have a couple of these laying around, they look like a good bet. The remote only need to control a TV because the original remote is awful (tiny buttons, no light, etc).

I might be able to use the remote without JP1, but the problem is I need it to control a relatively new Apex TV and I'm not sure if any of the built-in codes will work. So I guess a second part of my question would be if anyone knows if there is a built-in code which will work an Apex TV?

If necessary, I'd be willing to crack open the remote and add some type of connector (I've already done this with a 2103). I'm at work now, but when I get home I'll dig one out and see if it has an EEPROM etc.

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.
Matt
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
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Location: Chicago, IL

                    
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jp1/files/Hardware/
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Rob
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johann83



Joined: 03 Aug 2003
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

                    
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry Rob, didn't see the document for the stereo interface... Since I did a 4/6-pin interface on the 2103 I have, I guess I should be able to do similar on this remote. Looks like it is time to crack that baby open.

So if I do get the interface working, I guess I'll need an RDF. I didn't see one in the current batch of RDF files, but thats probably because no one uses this remote. I didn't see one anywhere in the files area at Yahoo either, so I guess I'll need to create my own?

Is there a doc anywhere that describes how to extract the info I need from the dump? I've read through the RDFSpec in the past, but that doesn't really cover it all. At any rate, I'll wait to cross that bridge until I have a working interface.

Thanks for your help.
Matt
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

johann83 wrote:
So if I do get the interface working, I guess I'll need an RDF. I didn't see one in the current batch of RDF files, but thats probably because no one uses this remote.

IIRC, the 15-1993 uses the same RDF as the 15-1994
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Rob
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johann83



Joined: 03 Aug 2003
Posts: 66
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

                    
PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2004 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally got a chance to get the parts I needed to add the stereo interface to my 1993. It worked perfectly the first try and uploads/downloads successfully. IR asked me what RDF to use and I picked the 1994 one as Rob suggested. But, I am having a strange problem that I cannot explain and I was hoping someone here might have an idea.

The problem goes something like this... I wanted to test to see if the uploading works, so I changed the TV code from default to 0250 (to control my Panasonic TV) and it turns out the code didn't work. So I did a download to make sure everything looked OK. After a few more tests I decided to verify that the remote itself was actually working, so I did a 981 reset and then programmed the TV button to code 0250 manually. This worked as expected and so I know the remote works.

Now, if I compare the EEPROM image from programming the TV button manually to the one that was created when I programmed it using IR, it is identical. The strange part is that one works and one doesn't. Since what I really needed the JP1 connection for was to add an upgrade, I then decided to see if this would work, so I added an upgrade that I am using for one of my devices in my 2104.

Again, I ran into the same problem, if I would program one of the device buttons to the upgrade device using IR it would not work, but I could do it manually and it works perfectly. Again I tried to compare the EEPROM image only to find them identical. At this point, I have just decided to add the upgrade I needed and manually program all 4 device keys to point to that upgrade (this is a replacement TV remote for my parents, no need to confuse them). I haven't had a chance to test it out with their TV, but I think it should be OK.

But, being the curious type, I am really interested in why setting the device code from IR wouldn't work, while setting it manually on the remote would. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

Matt
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johnsfine
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Joined: 10 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2004 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

johann83 wrote:

But, being the curious type, I am really interested in why setting the device code from IR wouldn't work, while setting it manually on the remote would. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.


The problem is in the reset signal, which is not connected by the stereo interface.

The remote keeps the basic setup data (including your choices of setup code for each device mode) in registers. On reset it copies that data from the eeprom. Without the reset, it doesn't.

After upload, you must remove batteries, press a key, then replace batteries.
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johann83



Joined: 03 Aug 2003
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

                    
PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know, I had already thought of that, and I was certain that I had tried it. But I just tried it again now, and it works. I guess I either didn't try it, or I had done something else wrong. Thanks.

Matt
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Mark Pierson
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2004 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johann83 wrote:
I guess I either didn't try it, or I had done something else wrong.

Nobody can help you with the first problem... Wink

As for doing something wrong, when performing the remove-batteries-press-button-reinstall-batteries reset dance, watch the LED while you press a button (I recommend a device button or POWER). It should at least faintly glow as the capacitors discharge. This indicates that the remote is fully unpowered. Then, as you reinstall the batteries, watch the LED for the double-blink that indicates the EEPROM has in fact been reset. If you don't get that double-blink, the EEPROM contents aren't read by the remote, giving the symptoms you describe.
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johann83



Joined: 03 Aug 2003
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

                    
PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2004 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark Pierson wrote:
Nobody can help you with the first problem... Wink


Yes, obviously. Actually, I think maybe the problem was that I didn't press the buttons long enough to totally discharge the cap. I don't remember seeing the two-blink reset the first time I tried it, but it definitely does it now. Thanks for the comments though.

Matt
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