JP1 Remotes

Hi, I am new to this, and I have what might seem a strange request to people familiar with the software, so please bear with me.

I have a URC 3661 remote, which doesn't have the ability to work as a remote for RME audio devices (like the ADI-2 DAC FS).

I knew that One for All provided as a service the ability to send them the remote, and they would upgrade it with the codes for a device. So I contacted their support, and they told me that, unfortunately, they don't provide this service for my country (Romania), and that I should look into purchasing another remote, a URC 7955, which has the ability to download the codes from their database using the One for All Android or iOS Setup app. The code for my device would be AUD - 5262.

This is the part of the email with instructions:

The URC 7955 can download codes directly from our code database via the One For All Setup app.

The code for your device is : AUD - 5262


To setup the code(s):

1. Open the Setup App on your smartphone and pair it with your remote control.
2. From the main screen, select the device you want to setup.
3. On the next page, select the brand name of your device. You can use the search field if the brand is not listed in the top brand names list.
4. Next, press the Skip button.
5. From the list of codes, select the code mentioned above.
6. Press the check mark in the top right to set up the code your the Smart Control


Additional information

To change a code from an existing device, select the device from the main screen and tap the code number displayed. Enter the new code manually in the empty field that appears.

I don't have a URC 7955, and don't want to purchase one, so I looked at some other way to program my remote, and that's how I discovered RMIR. Downloaded it, looked inside it, but I did not see any built-in configuration for any RME devices, either.

Is there a way to download those codes form One for All and update the RMIR software with them (besides buying a URC 7955 remote and use it to do that)?

Or would it be easier to add such codes in some other way?
RME has a spreadsheet file with codes for the remote buttons (IR commands) but I'm at a loss on how to translate those to something that can be used in RMIR.

I have also found this GitHub issue (RME ADI-2 DAC Support and HELP) for some other software that explains how to interpret the codes for that software.

But there's one big problem there: they don't handle the volume buttons properly. The Vol+ and Vol- have only one code in that file, but the volume control behaves like this:
- if you press the Vol+ button, you get the volume increased by one step
- if you hold the Vol+ button pressed, then the volume keeps on increasing in an accelerated way

Looks like some sort of repeating sequence must be sent. Is RMIR able to program something like this in a URC 3661?

Sorry for all the questions! I'm just trying to figure out if RMIR is the tool that I could use for what I need at this initial stage.

You can download official One For All codes from their SimpleSet site without a remote, which I have done just now and posted your AUD 5262 upgrade here:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=26672

It's a bit involved to do the above without a remote, but I can share the details if you're interested.

The volume button behavior you describe is how volume buttons are supposed to work. I'm not understanding the problem there. If you don't want the repeat when held behavior, map the volume buttons to some other unused buttons, then put macros on the volume buttons consisting of a single volume command. Those won't repeat when held.

Stama, what you're asking for is exactly the reason that JP1 exists.

You are not asking for a "software update", you are asking for a device upgrade, and we have thousands of those here, and Dave just created another one for your specific device.

And you do have a remote that is compatible with JP1 and the RMIR software, but what you are missing is a cable to connect your remote to your computer.

So, I suggest you go on ebay and look for someone who is selling a 6-port FTDI FT232RL cable and ships to your country. See the following thread for more details:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16360

I just noticed the spreadsheet you posted. I've updated my linked file with all the functions on that sheet as the official upgrade was incomplete. All you need now is a cable like Rob said.

Thank you both for your replies!

So it's possible, great! And thank you for the file with the commands!

I already have some experience in programming Android devices, I made an IR receiver for my PC and wrote the code myself. I will try to figure out by myself how to program the remote, and will come back with questions if I don't manage.

The original RME remote failed after one year! And it seems to be a common occurrence, others are complaining of the same on their forums. I decided that instead of buying a new original remote every one or two years, I'd rather use a programmable remote instead!

Btw, a cheaper alternative for a USB-RS232 interface are the boards with a Silicon Labs CP2102/2103/2104 chip on them. The boards usually offer all the inputs/outputs required, although they might not all be exposed directly on the pluggable pins. I have this one, and the RTS is on the side of the board, but it's easy to connect to it: https://www.emag.ro/-/pd/D2M4XVBBM/

The boards with these chips don't require any trick to use on Windows 10 or 11, they're plug & play (official drivers here). And they're much cheaper than boards using original FTDI chips.

Ah.. forgot about the volume buttons.

The remote behaves in two different ways when you press the Vol+ button:
- initially the sound volume is incremented by a single step
- but if you keep the remote button pressed, then the volume starts to raise again in a faster way

But the IR commands file have only one code for Vol + and one code for Vol-, there aren't two commands for Vol+: one which triggers the single step increment, and a different one which triggers the accelerated volume increase.

Which means that only the single IR command is sent, but also a repeat sequence as allowed by the NEC protocol starts being sent after a while to trigger the second behavior. Or at least, that's what I'm guessing that is happening.

This is the behavior that I want, to have the accelerated volume increase as I hold the button down, I was just not sure if sending that repeat sequence to have this behavior is possible with the programming done by RMIR.

I like your interface board idea, but my last cable was only $6, and all the wiring was included. I'd rather spend a few extra bucks than an hour soldering. In the early days of JP1 we all built our own cables from discrete components. I'm glad I don't have to do that anymore.

But since you already have one, go for it! You'll have that file loaded in no time.

Regarding volume, you'll get the desired behavior with the upgrade file. The remote is smart enough to know how to repeat certain commands like volume without needed separate codes. Rob can probably elaborate in more detail. I only have a general understanding of it.

The Waveshare 7605 CP2102 seems to have all the signals exposed directly on the pluggable pins: https://www.waveshare.com/CP2102-USB-UA ... type-A.htm
You get the connector cable with it too (it's not in the product photos, but is listed as part of the package).

Waveshare is a board maker that uses original chips.

It's a proposal to add to the cable topic a new type of board that is trouble free on Windows 10 and 11.

The PL2303HXD mentioned there are no longer supported on Win 10 and 11, for instance. And most FTDI RS232 boards that people buy are not using original chips - FTDI had a habit of crippling these boards in their drivers, plus many such boards share the same USB ID, which means if you have two or more in the system, you might have issues trying to use them as they both identify with the same ID.

Later edit: another option are boards with the CH343G chip on them. However there are reports of serial communications errors that start creeping after a while.

Hey Stama, I'm sure there are many other options to make a working JP1 cable other than the FTDI and Prolific cables that we mention. As to the other options being cheaper, given that most FTDI and Prolific cables are well under $10, we've never really felt that cost was a factor.

But, if you get something else working, please share the details. I certainly understand it's better to use what you already have than needing to buy new stuff.