JP1 Remotes

I've been playing around with this remote for a while and found one thing that really bugs me... when using the "Watch Cable" macro button it treats a device key as a "power toggle and switch to that device" key.

So when I program it to switch to TV device, discrete on, select input, switch to cable device, discrete on it does the following:
If TV and cable boxes are ON: turn TV off, ignore remaining TV functions since the TV is still in turning off mode, turn off cable box and turn it back on.
If TV/cable are both OFF: turn TV on, ignore remaining TV functions since the TV is still in turning on mode, turn on cable box.
You can imagine what it does when there is a mix of ON and OFF.

The only workaround that I have found is to map each of the device power buttons to discrete on and program another button to discrete off - but that nerfs the function of the physical power button for each device.

Does anyone know if there is a way to set up the remote to be able to use the "Watch Cable" button without having to resort to mapping discrete on to each power button?

I was going to suggest program Discrete On to each of the POWER buttons too. You could then program the real Power function to Phantom1, in each device mode, and then program a macro to the POWER button with just one step, that being Phantom1.

You could also program a macro to shift/POWER that sends all the discrete off functions, which could be programmed to Phantom2 in each device mode.

It worked!

I assigned Power to Phantom1 for each device, and then programmed a macro for the power key with just a Phantom1 keypress.

Then I went into each device and either changed power to discrete on, or removed it altogether for devices without discrete on/off functions.

Then the "Watch Cable" button worked exactly as I had hoped.

That solution was genius, thanks for your help!

Glad it worked for you.

Did you also try the power-off macro that I suggested, on shift-POWER (ie, press SETUP followed by POWER) ?

No, I didn't try anything else when your first suggestion worked.

I was just about to try but I don't think this remote allows shifted keys... for both the buttons and macros the shift selection is grayed out.

Here are a couple of screenshots from RMIR



https://ibb.co/xmdFKrc
https://ibb.co/QfZZZ0d

Ah, I see it doesn't allow keymoves, but it has the phantom buttons in the keymaps, so now I see how you were doing it.

I see that Graham created this RDF so I assume if RMIR doesn't allow shifted keys or keymoves, he determined that to be how this remote is.

Yes, it actually has seven phantom buttons so there is a lot that I could do with it using macros, but the macros play really slowly so I can't make them too long.

It's too bad that this remote is so restricted, but I'm glad that you pointed out a good workaround for the "Watch Cable" button.

I'm fine without shifted keys and an extender for my current usage, but they would have been really nice.

Given the number of phantoms and that you're limited to using macros for advance customization, here's a tip: remember that a macro will be in whatever device mode the remote is in when it starts, so you could program macros to regular buttons and have them do something like phantom1, phantom2, phantom3, etc Then customize what those phantom buttons do in each mode, so in TV mode they might do something different than in DVD mode, etc.

I don't know your system in order to make suggestions, but suppose on your DVD player, when you press the PAUSE button you get some display on the screen that you don't like, but you can use EXIT to get rid of it, then you could make the PAUSE button be a macro that sends PAUSE and EXIT. But maybe that does bad things in TV mode, so instead of PAUSE and EXIT, you use PAUSE and PHANTOM2, then only program PHANTOM2 to be EXIT in DVD mode, leave it blank in TV mode and the other modes.

I have 2 Scientific Atlanta link boxes, a 8300 and a 4290. I'm attempting to get one of the controllers to deal with both of these crates.

The issue remote is a URC2125. I have a 1056B01 that chips away at both boxes however the Mrs objects to me straying and leaving her without a remote.

I've attempted the techniques depicted in these discussions with no karma. The issue with utilizing the manual technique is that I can't discover the codes for both of the link boxes. I have followed every one of the connections recorded in these discussions with no karma.

I put new batteries in it.

I'm assuming that you are not new to JP1 programming and have already programmed your 1056B01.

If you haven't built a 5-pin JP1 cable then you need to start there. There is good information in the following post to help you build it: http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... p?t=102058

And I had success building the 5-pin cable using this USB cable from Amazon Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07FVMCPMT

Once you get the cable built the rest is the same that you used to program your 1056B01.

encreed wrote:I have 2 Scientific Atlanta link boxes, a 8300 and a 4290. I'm attempting to get one of the controllers to deal with both of these crates.

The issue remote is a URC2125. I have a 1056B01 that chips away at both boxes however the Mrs objects to me straying and leaving her without a remote.

I've attempted the techniques depicted in these discussions with no karma. The issue with utilizing the manual technique is that I can't discover the codes for both of the link boxes. I have followed every one of the connections recorded in these discussions with no karma.

I put new batteries in it.

The methods described in this thread describe how to fix the problem using JP1 and a program called RMIR. As you only joined the forum today, I'm guessing you are NOT a JP1 user, correct? In which case, I'm curious how you were attempting to follow the methods, but regardless, the following thread describes how to find a JP1 cable that you can use to program your remote:

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16360

It's a good idea to get a cable, but I wonder if some basic manual exploration would help. Since the Atlas controls both boxes, try blinking back the setup code that is being used on the Atlas. Follow these instructions.

The URC2125 can send the following STB setup codes: 1376,1877,1982,2187. If the code being used in the Atlas is one of these, try using it on the URC2125. If the Atlas is using a different setup code, please post it here.

Note that the URC2125 is capable of sending commands to the cable box using RF rather than IR, and it may be setup to send RF signals. I don't know how to switch to IR mode for cable, but perhaps entering one of the above 4 setup codes may put it into IR mode.

If you do a 990 blink back on the URC2125 and get one of 3985,3986,3987,3988,3989, or 3990 then the remote is set up to send RF signals.