JP1 Remotes

1. Device: LG 47LH90
2. Type of device: TV
3. Year: 2009
4. JP1/UEI Remote model: URC10820
5. Do you have a JP1 cable? No. I have a parallel cable, but believe it only works for JP1. My remote is JP1.2.
6. Still have original remote? Yes, but URC10820 cannot learn the cursor keys. Cursor left and right are learned as volume decrease and increase, respectively. Must be a complex protocol that confuses the learning remote.
7. Checked the file section? Yes, but am hoping for a code that works before making cable.
8. Checked Pronto file section (at R/C)? No, see 5 and 7.
9. Partially working setup code? TV 0178
10. Learning remote question? Yes: see below.
11. Have you tried the JP1 Lookup Tool? No, see 5 and 7.
12. If you have a OARUSB04G, URC-6440 (or similar) remote, have you tried simpleset.com? N/A

Hi all,

In short, my URC10820 is unable to learn the cursor buttons of the LG TV's original remote. The URC10820 seems to learn the cursors, blinks appropriately, but when I press left and right, it instead makes volume decrease and increase. And the "learned" up and down buttons do not work at all.

I have tried all the TV codes listed in the manual for LG:
0178, 1178, 0856, 0700
and 0178 works incompletely, with the above problem. I'd like to check here whether there is any other code I can try.

I read in other threads that it is possible to use a Keyspan USB-to-RS232 adapter to program JP1.2. I have a Keyspan, but it ends in a DB9 male (DE-9 according to Wikipedia). Then I started looking at this:

https://www.amazon.com/SinLoon-Ribbon-C ... B01MFBMZZF

Which got me wondering, could I connect in series:

ComputerUSBPort -> KeyspanUSA19HS -> NullModemCable -> AboveAmazonCable -> JP1PinsOnRemote

and turn my Keyspan into a JP1.2 programming cable? The NullModemCable is just to mate the two male DB9 plugs, then I extract all the pins, rearrange and attach them to the 6-pin JP1 connector. Worth a shot? Thanks.

This is probably the closest match we have for your TV:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=6745

Your USB adapter is not compatible with JP1.x remotes, so there's no point in buying that connector for it.

These are some JP1.x cables proven to work:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16360

But before you buy a cable, you could try some EFC programming. The EFCs for the arrows are probably 182, 186, 165 and 169 for R, L, U, D.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.p ... gle_device

If you have the older version of the 10820, use 3 digit EFCs, otherwise, use 5 digit, i.e., 00182 for R.

Would you mind posting where you read about using that Keyspan adapter? We need to set the record straight.

Given that you get buy a ready-made cable for under $10 shipped (or under $5 if can wait for it to come from China), I really don't think it's worth putting too much time in to trying to make other combinations work.
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16360

As for your arrow buttons, try re-programming them using EFCs:
00182 arrow right
00186 arrow left
00165 arrow up
00169 arrow down
00164 ENTER

and just for reference
00187 VOL -
00183 VOL +

[Update] I see I cross-posted with Dave

mdavej and The Robman:

Thank you both VERY MUCH. I programmed the EFC's and the cursor buttons are now working great! You guys are awesome, I hadn't even known about EFC's until you mentioned it.


mdavej:

I was searching all over these forums yesterday, and found this anecdotal thread:
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9247
where a user posted success "using the revised JP1.x serial interface on a Keyspan serial to USB adaptor". Maybe "revised" is of special significance here?

Appreciatively,

Super_Copy

Great to hear.

Thanks for the follow up. You're right that "revised JP1.x interface" does have special significance in this case. It means he had to build the circuit in the schematic below to get it to work. If you build it, let us know how it works out.
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=5958

Many of us here have certainly built our share of interfaces over the years. But that's not necessary these days considering how easy it is to buy a cheap ready-made interface, which is what we typically recommend.

Here are a few current ebay listings I recommend. The first two are the cheapest, but take a long time to get from China, plus you have to deal with the individual pins or glue them together. The last one is more expensive, but comes from Canada and has the correct 6-pin connector already.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-to-TTL-Ser ... 3243544742
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-6Pin- ... 0882363752
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JP1-2-1-3-USB- ... 3357454860

There are several links to eBay listings in the "Chip Partner" thread that I linked to. You can get a cable for under $5 on the slowboat from China, or for under $10 from the US.

mdavej wrote:The last one is more expensive, but comes from Canada and has the correct 6-pin connector already.

I see that the Canadian seller says that his cable is for use with IR.exe. Could someone please tell him that IR.exe is obsolete, superseded by RMIR and that if his cable uses an FTDI chip then it supports remotes later than JP1.3 as well. It is good to know that someone still sells a cable with the correct 6-pin connector at a reasonable price. I do hope it uses an FTDI chip, though.

Good catch. But if it's who I think it is (DIYGadget), he's been ignoring everything we tell him for at least 15 years. I'll send him a message anyway.

mathdon wrote:...and that if his cable uses an FTDI chip then it supports remotes later than JP1.3 as well.

I'm guessing that this cable is based on these instructions from Tommy Tyler, which does indeed call for an FTDI cable to be the basis of the new cable, so it should work.

mdavej wrote:Good catch. But if it's who I think it is (DIYGadget), he's been ignoring everything we tell him for at least 15 years. I'll send him a message anyway.

Yeah, that does appear to be the DIYGadget guy (known as prelude here). The only way that I know of to reach him is through the ticket support system on his page, but he often ignores that too.