Hi, I haven't been able to reliably download on my main Win10 system for many years. Last time I found that one of my old Win10 laptops would work, but now I can't get it working. Does anybody have suggestions? My remote is a JP1.3 - AOC 67100. When I download, I get two quick blinks of the remote LED.
Device Manager driver properties: FTDI, 8/16/2017, 2.12.28.0
rmaster.err - http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=25679
RemoteMaster v2.09 build 6
IrpTransmogrifier version 1.2.2 IrpProtocols version 2019-10-15
DecodeIR version 2.45
Interfaces:
JP1.X Serial version 0.24
CommHID version 1.0
JP2BT version 1.1
JP1 USB version 0.04
JPS version 0.1
JP1 Parallel version 0.12
System Properties:
java.version = "1.8.0_191"
java.vendor = "Oracle Corporation"
os.name = "Windows 10"
os.arch = "x86"
Libraries loaded from D:\Software Downloads\jp1\RemoteMaster.v2.09build6\Windows-x86 <- I am running Win10 64 bit, so is this a problem?
Starting upload
Interface Name = NULL
Port Name = NULL
Testing interface: JP1.X Serial
Port Name = NULL
Testing interface: CommHID
HIDManager com.codeminders.hidapi.HIDManager@a0dbd2 devices are:
None
Failed to open remote
Port Name = NULL
Testing interface: JP1 USB
Port Name = NULL
Testing interface: JPS
Port Name = NULL
Testing interface: JP1 Parallel
Port Name = NULL
No remotes found - ftdi win10
Moderator: Moderators
This means that you are running 32-bit Java. I don't know if that is causing your problem, but I suggest you try 64-bit Java. You can have both on your machine at once, as I do, and even several different versions, and by editing the RMIR shortcut you can select which Java version to use.utmba95 wrote:Libraries loaded from D:\Software Downloads\jp1\RemoteMaster.v2.09build6\Windows-x86 <- I am running Win10 64 bit, so is this a problem?
Graham
False alarm. It turns out my cable went bad. It's a really old one with Tommy's name on the PCB. The actual cable conductors broke somewhere in the cable and were intermittently working. When I tried to strip them to put a new 2x3 connector on, they kept breaking as if the conductor had no strength at all. The black cable is marked "TRY COMPUTER" in case anybody else suspects the same problem. I cut up a mini USB cable and soldered it to the PCB and a 2x3 connector, and I'm back in business.