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JP1 parallel cable on pcie/parallel expansion card?

 
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Monkfish



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 57

PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:09 am    Post subject: JP1 parallel cable on pcie/parallel expansion card? Reply with quote

I have been using a JP1 parallel port cable I made on a Win XP system for a few years now without any problems, but I am about to dump my old XP system and move everything across to my Win 10 system.

I have successfully installed the latest version of Java and RemoteMaster onto my Win10 (64bit) system and have added a parallel port to the system via a pcie expansion card. The card is reported as installed and working.

However, I can't get RMIR to detect the port. The I/O addresses for the card are D010-D017 and D000-D003 under LP1.

Any ideas?
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
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Location: Chicago, IL

PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think anyone's every tried to do this before, so I'd be curious if any of the experts are able to help get you going.

We had to do some clever hacks to get our old JP1 USB cables working under Windows 10, so who knows if we need something similar to get your setup working.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=25588

If all else fails, you can get a JP1.x style cable starting from $3.39 shipped from China, but you would need a JP1 adapter to make it work with your old JP1 remotes, and those go for $10 (+ $4 shipping). All the details are below:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16360
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Rob
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Monkfish



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 57

PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2020 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rob. I just got a reply from the card manufacturer StarTech and they said that it was not possible to remap the i/o addresses on my card, but they used to do one that did allow remapping to legacy addresses. My remote is the One-For-All Contour-8 URC-1280. I will look at a USB one maybe.
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2020 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The RDF for the URC-1280 Contour 8 remote has signature 359802, which means it's a JP1.4 remote, which wouldn't work with your old parallel cable anyway. Is this the remote that you've always used or did you used to use an older remote before?
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Rob
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Monkfish



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 57

PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2020 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, I didn't realise. I have been using the One-For-All URC-7562 previously and hadn't got around to plugging my old cable into the Contour-8 yet. As it had the same 6-pin connection I just assumed it would work. So what would be the best solution to get the Contour-8 connected to a new Windows 10 system?
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2020 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The old URC-7562 will work with your parallel cable (if you get it working). The new Contour will require one of the JP1.x cables that I mentioned earlier. And if you still want to use your URC-7562, you might as well also get a JP1 adapter.

The Robman wrote:
If all else fails, you can get a JP1.x style cable starting from $3.39 shipped from China, but you would need a JP1 adapter to make it work with your old JP1 remotes, and those go for $10 (+ $4 shipping). All the details are below:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16360

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Rob
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Monkfish



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 57

PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rob. Looks like I need to get my wallet out again... or my soldering iron Wink
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cable from China is $3.36 shipped, so no need to waste time trying to reverse engineer that one, but it is basically an Arduino adapter, so some folks have made their own using adapters that they already had. Here are other designs that you could use.

Ha, I just found another one on ebay for only $3 shipped: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303368963508

The legacy adapter is $14 shipped, but that would be hard to replicate because it uses a programmed chip. We do have the source code for the chip if you want to make it yourself.

I guess what you could do, if you're handy with a soldering iron, is download the designs for the legacy JP1 USB cables, as those can be made to work on modern computers with a registry hack.
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Monkfish



Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 57

PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the end I bought these two items:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CH340-Gold-USB-TTL-Serial-Adapter-for-Router-upgrade-Arduino-FTDI-CP2102-PL2303/262285972686

This board was cheap and the seller was in the UK so it came quickly. I had to solder a pin into the RTS hole and set the jumper to 3.3V.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTDI-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-adapt-module-USB-TO-TTL-RS232-Arduino-Cable-6PinMETVX/124038965526

This cable came from China so took longer but worked fine.

Both devices installed and work right away under Windows 10.

I'm sure it has been pointed out before, but it is worth noting that the RXD pin on the remote (pin 4 on a 2x3 connector below) should be connected to the TXD connection on the cable (green wire on the cable above). Likewise the TXD pin on the remote (pin 6 on a 2x3 connector) should be connected to the RXD connection on the cable (white wire).

The pins on the remote are ordered thus:

531
642

With a white dot on the circuit board indicating pin 1. Pin 3 is GND (to black wire) and Pin 2 is RTS (to yellow wire). Pins 1 & 5 should not be connected.

That all worked for me with this OFA Contour-8 v2 remote and the above interfaces.
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Monkfish wrote:
I'm sure it has been pointed out before, but it is worth noting that the RXD pin on the remote (pin 4 on a 2x3 connector below) should be connected to the TXD connection on the cable (green wire on the cable above). Likewise the TXD pin on the remote (pin 6 on a 2x3 connector) should be connected to the RXD connection on the cable (white wire).

The pins on the remote are ordered thus:

531
642

With a white dot on the circuit board indicating pin 1. Pin 3 is GND (to black wire) and Pin 2 is RTS (to yellow wire). Pins 1 & 5 should not be connected.

Yeah, we have that pretty much covered here:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16360

and here:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.php/JP1_Interfaces
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