NEC M311W Projector

[Sauce]

1. Device: NEC M311W
2. Type of device: Projector
3. Year: 2014
4. JP1/UEI Remote model: URC6440
5. Do you have a JP1 cable? No, Use Supplied USB
6. Still have original remote? Yes
7. Checked the file section? Yes and I've uploaded my learned codes HERE
8. Checked Pronto file section (at R/C)? Yes
9. Partially working setup code? Yes
10. Learning remote question? n\a
11. Have you tried the JP1 Lookup Tool? Yes
12. If you have a Nevo (or similar) remote, have you tried ez-rc.com or simpleset.com? No

Can anyone please help me find another working code for my projector, as this one also activates my separate HDMI switcher. When I use any command on the projector, the HDMI input cycles, changing my setup.

Ive uploaded the learned codes for the 5 Port S01 HDMI Switcher HERE.

So long story short, I am looking at changing the NEC projector codes to one that still works but doesnt also trip the HDMI selector, unless someone has any other ideas ?

Thanks
Sauce.

PS The only reason i bought the HDMI selector was because I couldn't get any discrete input codes for my Samsung HT-D5500 Blu-ray combo unit. I looked extensively through Jp1 and pronto. The consensus seems to be that these combo AV\BR units dont support it, they only cycle through all inputs with a single key.

[pH7_jp1]

Does the HDMI switch respond if you use the original factory remote for the projector? I only ask because that is the first step I would take in trying to debug this problem.

My second thought is: Wouldn't it be cheaper to try a different HDMI switcher instead of a different projector? If you are using this problem to justify the purchase of a newer projector, then ignore this comment.

[pH7_jp1]

I had the lack of discrete inputs on a Samsung HT combo unit. Here is my post about the HDMI switcher I used (without the problem you are having): Coping with the lack of input source discretes

This is the exact one that I used: Amazon link

[Sauce]

Hi pH7,

Yep, the original projector (remote) also causes the HDMI to respond.
Thats how I ruled out any errors in my setup.

Im trying to find a different projector setup code, to program my URC6440 with not a new $2000 projector Hehehe, that would be an expensive way to go

I could buy another switcher, but there would be no guarantee it doesnt conflict with my NEC projector, and it took 6 weeks to arrive from ebay in the first place... but it may be my only option if I cant re-program

Ill check out your links - thanks for responding !
Sauce

[Sauce]

Nice post, I had already read it during my research on Discrete input codes.
My switcher is just a cheap clone of yours it looks like. Everything is exactly the same in appearance, except for the lack of the brandname ( and the reliability i suppose lol)

I just got unlucky it conflicts with my projector. I know there are several codes sometimes for each device, so im hoping to find another one that plays nicely

Sauce.

[Sauce]

This is how Ive setup my inputs, which does what I need.

The switcher swaps Inputs between TV and my Kodi Media Server (on PVR) to HDMI1 IN on my Samsung HT combo unit, depending on which device button you hit.

Ive setup macros on my DVD device button, so when I do a 'Short Key Press' it goes to the Samsung Main Menu, ready to play a DVD or select another function, setting or USB, Disc, etc. It always defaults to DVD, so you can just click OK to play a disc. ( You can also just press Play when in DVD mode obv)

To return back to the last device used, TV or Kodi, another macro on a LKP of the same DVD device button changes the Output back to HDMI1 OUT by choosing HDMI1 from the menu, you can see it making the choices on the screen for you.
ie It goes MENU, LEFT, DOWN, DOWN, DOWN, OK

This sort of completes the setup of each device button and using the entire keypad for all its operations, and how to swap between them, with the rights inputs automatically.

Next step is to finish customising the punch through's which I am doing manually with special functions and nested macros as I didnt have much luck with activities, ie room lights , and volume control done so far.

My devices are a mixture of toggle and discrete power functions, and I couldnt see how to use activities to intelligently turn everything on and off properly. Things kept getting out of whack, you know the common story of devices that are on get turned off etc because someone else before you left 1 device on.

Using the awesome Toggle in special functions allowed me to setup the 'watch tv' and 'watch movies' buttons, with short key presses turning everything on, and LKP of the same turning it all off regardless of each devices current individual power state.

Love the extender mathdon, its the reason I bought this remote in fact.

[mdavej]

FWIW, Monoprice switches typically don't use codes that would conflict with your PJ.

Back when I had to use HDMI switches, I got the auto-switching type, so I never actually sent any IR commands to it. It switched automatically to the last device that got powered on and switched away from devices that got powered off.

Another option is to better physically separate your PJ and switch. I imagine that your PJ is already behind you, well away from your switch. So maybe move the switch so that you're never aiming anywhere near the PJ when switching.

I admit I don't understand why you have a switch at all.

[vickyg2003]

Summary:
Switch is using Nec1, 128
Projector is using Nec1 24.233

But the switch is reacting to the projector code. My guess is you are running into a problem with your switch still listening for repeats while you are trying to use the projector.

You might want to try switching your projector to the No Repeats Nec1 version.

Or try issuing a bogus Nec1. 128 command after you change HDMI inputs on the switch to try to stop the switch for listening for repeats.

You might want to do some tests to see how long your Switch listens for repeats. This would be a problem with any other code you use.

I have a TV that listens for volume repeats forever. If the last code was a volume up, it gets louder and louder with each time we hold the button down with every other nec1 repeat

Don't forget if you are doing this in macros, the buttons are held for 3 repeats.

[Sauce]

Back when I had to use HDMI switches, I got the auto-switching type, so I never actually sent any IR commands to it. It switched automatically to the last device that got powered on and switched away from devices that got powered off.

Mine does this too, which is usefull if you are turning your devices on and off, but im allowing for changing between my TV and Kodi player when they are both already on. Im trying to cover every circumstance as my media PC (running Kodi) is left on all the time.

Another option is to better physically separate your PJ and switch. I imagine that your PJ is already behind you, well away from your switch. So maybe move the switch so that you're never aiming anywhere near the PJ when switching.

Ive got a receiver/emitter in the AV cupboard at the front which spits the signal back over my shoulders to the PJ on the ceiling at the rear of the room. This avoids the issue of missed PJ commands. ( As you need to be pointing forwards for the rest of your devices, ie when running macros) Plus its inelegant to have to point the remote backwards ...

I admit I don't understand why you have a switch at all.

Im forced to because all the sound needs to go through the AV\BR combo ( runs the 5.1 sound system) and it doesnt have any discrete inputs.
It goes TV - SWITCH - COMBO - PJ or KODI - SWITCH - COMBO - PJ
The combo can now stay on HDMI input1 because the switch is choosing what input it gets. HDMI input2 on the combo is unused. If I could reliably select the combo HDMI input2 I could connect the other device to it and not need the switch. Sorry If this isnt clear, its hard to translate my twisted setup into text lol.

When you want to watch a DVD or BR disc, the combo unit changes its input to itself ( internal-source) when you press play or insert a disc. To return to kodi or tv, I have described above a macro that manually selects combo HDMI input1 again, as I found a way to make the starting point the same, by choosing MENU. ( The combo units main menu). From here you can go left, down 3 times and press OK on the correct input from the list of choices.

[Sauce]

Hi vickyg2003,

Nice to meet you, The big guns are here lol.

I tried to change the protocol to a non repeating by ticking show Slingbox protocols, but still coudnt see any non-repeaters. I think the process to do so involved updating my protocol.ini next but didnt want to break anything.

Then I broke a HDMI adapater and had to go the local store, where I found another splitter and upgraded to avoid the hassles.

So I ended up ditching my cheapo switcher , and am now in the process of setting up another one. This looks to be state of the art, and supports separating the sound out and sending it to your AV receiver via a optical TOS link.

So now I can use the splitter in a more conventional sense, with all devices going to the splitter first (inc the combo unit) and have the HDMI audio fed back into the digital-in on the combo AV\BR for the 5.1 surround sound for the other devices.

The main bonus of course, was luckily it doesn't respond to the PJ codes - whew !

Thanks for the advice,
Sauce.