JP1 Remotes Forum Index JP1 Remotes


FAQFAQ SearchSearch 7 days of topics7 Days MemberlistMemberlist UsergroupsUsergroups RegisterRegister
ProfileProfile Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages Log inLog in

JP1.x USB cable (Prolific) on Windows 10 - remote damaged?

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    JP1 Remotes Forum Index -> JP1 - Hardware
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
weeple2000



Joined: 21 Sep 2016
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2016 9:02 pm    Post subject: JP1.x USB cable (Prolific) on Windows 10 - remote damaged? Reply with quote

I initially had the same problem that doctorwizz posted about here:

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17358

That seems to have resolved the issue with my prolific cable and the drivers. The cable shows up as Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port (COM4) in Device Manager.

I wasn't sure which pin was pin 1 on the cable, I contacted the seller (from eBay) and was sent the following, indicating that pins 1 and 5 are empty:

http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/JP1,_JP1.1,_JP1.2_and_JP1.3_Frequently_Asked_Questions

I have plugged and unplugged my cable several times since I have been troubleshooting this. In the process, pins 2 and 6 have gotten recessed into the remote in comparison to the rest of the pins. I have used a tweezers to pull them out to be in line with the other pins.

Is my remote ruined? It is tough because I have been troubleshooting the cable, I haven't gotten it to download from the remote. But now I've noticed this issue with the pins.

I am using RMIR and selecting the option for remote interface jp 1.x serial com4.

Any ideas?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
weeple2000



Joined: 21 Sep 2016
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2016 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another thought to add:

The remote in question is an RCA RCRP05BR. If I need to order a new remote, should I order the same one? Or should I order something different? I intend to control my Samsung Television, HTPC, Logitech z-680 speakers, blu-ray player, and Roku 3.

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-RCRP05BR-Device-Replacement-Universal/dp/B0028IKXLS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474514628&sr=8-7&keywords=rca+universal+remote
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
3FG
Expert


Joined: 19 May 2009
Posts: 3241

PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2016 12:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 6 pin connector consists of 6 gold plated square pins in a plastic header. Each of the 6 pins are supposed to soldered to the printed circuit board. Assuming normal assembly, it would be quite difficult to push the pins to a different depth, becasue both the header and the solder connections to the PCB are quite strong. Also, it's hard to see how one could generate enough grip with tweezers to move the pins. So I suppose that the header is broken, and the solder joints also. If it were my remote, I'd open the case and re-solder the pins to the PCB, but of course you may not have the tools at hand to do that.

The difficulty at the moment is that we don't have a way to tell if the interface works, or if the problem is just poor contact from pins 2 and 6 to the PCB. Both pins are needed for communication. It's possible that replacing the remote still won't allow communication, because the DIY Gadget cables seem to have a fairly high incidence of out-of-the-box failures.

I don't really have any advice for a replacement remote, assuming you decide to get one. Seems like people vary quite a bit in preferences.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
mdavej
Expert


Joined: 08 Oct 2003
Posts: 3761

PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2016 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a USB JP1 remote like OARUSB04G or Nevo C2 and you won't have to use that terrible DIYGadgets cable or mess with pins ever again.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
weeple2000



Joined: 21 Sep 2016
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

3FG wrote:
The 6 pin connector consists of 6 gold plated square pins in a plastic header. Each of the 6 pins are supposed to soldered to the printed circuit board. Assuming normal assembly, it would be quite difficult to push the pins to a different depth, becasue both the header and the solder connections to the PCB are quite strong. Also, it's hard to see how one could generate enough grip with tweezers to move the pins. So I suppose that the header is broken, and the solder joints also. If it were my remote, I'd open the case and re-solder the pins to the PCB, but of course you may not have the tools at hand to do that.

The difficulty at the moment is that we don't have a way to tell if the interface works, or if the problem is just poor contact from pins 2 and 6 to the PCB. Both pins are needed for communication. It's possible that replacing the remote still won't allow communication, because the DIY Gadget cables seem to have a fairly high incidence of out-of-the-box failures.

I don't really have any advice for a replacement remote, assuming you decide to get one. Seems like people vary quite a bit in preferences.


So I do have a precision screw driver with a pry tool. I didn't have a soldering iron, but I have been thinking it would be nice to have one, so I picked one up. I took the remote apart and saw the pin that was lose, the solder obviously wasn't sticking to the back of the circuit board.

I heated my soldering iron and touched the tip to the pin, I waited a bit and put it back together. I pressed on the pin to verify that it would stick, and it seemed good. I didn't press too hard.

I put the remote back together, and wound up having the same problem, the cable pushed the pin into the remote, the same pin. I was mistaken before that the issue was with 2 pins, it is the same pin, pin 2. I am going to take it apart again, maybe I soldered the wrong pin or something. Any tips for getting a good solder?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
yaworski



Joined: 22 Jun 2014
Posts: 432
Location: Warsaw, Poland

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 3:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

weeple2000 wrote:

I put the remote back together, and wound up having the same problem, the cable pushed the pin into the remote, the same pin. I was mistaken before that the issue was with 2 pins, it is the same pin, pin 2. I am going to take it apart again, maybe I soldered the wrong pin or something. Any tips for getting a good solder?


It's possible that the trace or solder pad on the PCB has been broken and got off the board together with the pin itself. Maybe you overheated it by heating it up too long? What king of soldering iron have you used? Was it temperature controlled? How long have you been holding it down on the pin?
_________________
Marcin
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
weeple2000



Joined: 21 Sep 2016
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Weller-40-Watt-LED-Soldering-Iron-Kit-SP40NKUS/204195330

That's the iron. I looked up some info on soldering and I think the connection didn't look like a volcano when it broke which leads me to believe it may have been bad to begin with. I tested the temperature with an infrared heat gun, it was around 300. I don't have much experience but I thought maybe I didn't hold it down long enough. I also shouldn't have used the tip of the iron, which i read after the fact as well.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
3FG
Expert


Joined: 19 May 2009
Posts: 3241

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When a manufacturer solders an electronic component to a PCB, of course they add solder. But even when repairing a previously soldered joint, it usually is desirable to add solder. Normally one coats the tip of the iron with solder because this promotes heat conduction from the iron to the joint. Adding solder to the joint allows one to directly observe that the solder has melted and has wetted both the PCB pad and the pins or leads. We're looking to have the PCB pad and the pin both be at or above the melting point of solder for at least a brief time.

Also, assuming that the pin and PCB pad have been firmly attached by soldering, we still have to worry that the pad can be pushed away from the PCB when attaching the cable. So you should make an attempt to glue the pin to the black plastic header. By design, the pins should be mechanically attached to the black header, and the insertion force is borne by the header pushing against the top of the PCB. If the pin isn't attached to the header, the insertion force will be borne by the pad at the bottom of the PCB. It's pretty easy to separate the pad from the PCB, and then the electrical contact is broken.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
weeple2000



Joined: 21 Sep 2016
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what should I glue the pin to the header with?

Should I try to remove the existing solder and add new? Or just add to it a bit? I suspect I didn't heat all parts long enough given your description.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
pH7_jp1



Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Posts: 457
Location: Sterling Heights, MI

PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soldering tiny parts isn't the best way to first learn how to solder, but you don't have much of a choice. You need just a bit of solder at the point where the tip touches the part, just to conduct heat as 3FG said, but the whole point is to get the pin and pad to the temperature to melt the solder, so have the solder touching the pin and pad on the opposite side of the pin from the iron. That way when the solder melts, you know it is the pin and pad melting it, not the iron. Just enough solder to make the "volcano" as you said. Remove the iron and solder and the joint should have a nice shiny appearance.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
yaworski



Joined: 22 Jun 2014
Posts: 432
Location: Warsaw, Poland

PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2016 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adding solder is also desirable because of the fact, that the solder used by the manufacturer is lead free. Its melting point is higher than most popular 60/40 (tin to lead ratio).

I'm assuming you're using Fahrenheit scale (300 C would be waaaay too much :)). The lead free solder melting point is at about 410 F and for the 60/40 is at about 365 F.

By using additional solder you're adding lead to the solder joint which also brings down the melting point of the joint which allows you to solder faster and keep the heat for a less amount of time. Also lead free solder is much more brittle so adding some lead to the joint makes it stronger.
_________________
Marcin
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
weeple2000



Joined: 21 Sep 2016
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How should I glue the pin to the header? Would gorilla glue work?

As for the solder, right now all I have is an iron. Should I get some flux, brass sponge, or wick to help solder? Reading up a bit it seems these items may help.

I appreciate everyone's help. I'd like to figure this out how to fix this as a learning experience. I know it won't be cost effective.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic       JP1 Remotes Forum Index -> JP1 - Hardware All times are GMT - 5 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


 

Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
Get Smart! the band's official homepage Rockabilly Central