"Failed to open JP1.x interface" w/DIY cable

[kupakai]

cursedgriffin,
Are you able to measure the voltage at the remote pin 6? Another user is reporting similar issues and measured +2.6v at this pin. My guess is that this is marginal and is causing switching problems for the Q4 transistor.

He sent me his cable to look at and in his case, one of the wire had come off the circuit board. I soldered it back on and it worked fine on my computer. He said he received the cable, but he didn't mention if the cable worked for him or not (I'm assuming it does).

[binky123]

Thanks for the update. So it looks like it was a hardware issue after all. I thought the wires were pre-etched onto the circuit board.

[rickgtx]

Got my new diygadget JP1.2 serial interface yesterday! I can't get to work on my URC-6820.

Tried with USB-Serial connector and on COM1 on a PC with a serial port.

I ran the test JP1xTEST.BAT and got

jp1xtest version 0.00
**** NO JP1.x COMPATIBLE REMOTE FOUND! ****


However, the remote flashed twice two times during the test and when disconnecting.

I did steps A-D in 6.Troubleshooting from "EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT TESTING A JP1.x INTERFACE" at http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7987
Everything seems OK, and I did a continuity check from the PCB to the IDC connector.
In step 6.D my readings are off from what is listed.
DB9 pin 5 to IDC pin 3 is closed circuit *
IDC pin 1 to IDC pin 2 is 1K ohms
IDC pin 1 to IDC pin 3 is 1K ohms *
IDC pin 1 to IDC pin 4 is open *
IDC pin 1 to IDC pin 5 is open
IDC pin 1 to IDC pin 6 is open

* Differs from what is listed.

Is this a bad cable? Are there other tests.

Thanks,
Rick

[underquark]

I'm going clairvoyant here, but I think these result could be obtained by mixing up a capacitor with a resistor, namely C2 and R7.

I assume you're checking the cable with it unplugged from the PC and the remote?

DB9 pin 5 should be connected directly across to IDC pin 3 (common ground) and, therefore, resistance should be (virtually) zero. This step is to find out where IDC pin 3 is and, hence, which is IDC pin 1.

IDC 1 to 2 is 1K (through R8 )
IDC 1 to 3 ought to be real high resistance unless current is flowing through transistor Q2 or Q3; are you sure you haven't got a resistor in place of C2?
IDC 1 to 4 should be 1K (through R7); are you sure you haven't got a capacitor in here instead of a resistor?
IDC 1 to 5 shows no current since IDC 5 isn't in use
IDC 1 to 6 is near infinite resistance (at these voltages) since they're miles apart, electrically.

[rickgtx]

Thanks underquark, I contacted Diygadget and sent the cable back for a replacement.

[abroadst]

I'm getting the same error using the DIY cable. When I click "download from remote" in ir the remote's "cable" light blinks 2 long blinks and one short blink. Then I get the error message: "Failed to open JP1.x interface". If I plug it in upside down nothing happens, so I don't think that's it.

The remote is a URC-1067bx3 I think. Vicky says it should work even though it might be JP1.3.

[Tommy Tyler]

abroadst,

What were the results of testing your interface as described in:

Serial:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=5964

USB:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=5965

Tommy

[abroadst]

I downloaded jp1xtest and ran it. The remote blinked one long blink and then 2 short blinks (on the "cable" button). The program then reported "no JP1.x compatible remote found!"

I don't have a multimeter or really any familiarity with electronics below the software level, so I'm not able to do the advanced stuff in your doc. I'm assuming the cable was tested before it left DIYGadget, so it's unlikely to be the cable. Also, since the remote is blinking I think the cable is connected correctly.

Any other ideas?

[cywelchjr]

My experience has been that you MUST be very careful that you don't have any other active COM devices at a lower device address than the JP1.x interface. In particular, I have had trouble with built-in modems and bluetooth serial ports.

I found that if I made sure that the JP1.x interface is lower numbered than any other connected device that it would work. Also make sure you don't have something running that might grab any serial ports that come up (palm hotsync is the offender on my system) as that can cause trouble also.

[abroadst]

The built-in modem seems to be COM3, and the Bluetooth device seems to be on the USB bus, and not assigned to a COM address. The serial port is COM1. The settings are 9600 baud, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit, no flow control.

Again the blinking lights make me think there's a connection, even though I'm getting errors.

This seems to be a URC-1067bx3 remote - newly received from Comcast on Cape Cod for use with a new Scientific Atlanta dual tuner DVR. The 6-pin connector is labeled "1003".

-Andrew

[Tommy Tyler]

Andrew,

Your conclusion that the blinking response from remote indicates the PC configuration is correct is right on. And don't worry about those default settings for COM1 (9600 baud, etc.) Those are changed temporarily when our software communicates with the remote. There's something more sinister going on here. Generally, two blinks signals that a remote has come out of reset and likes what it sees in memory. A single, long blink generally means it does not like what it sees. So I can't interpret the contradictory results you are seeing. Maybe one of the other experts can tell us what this means.

I'm tempted to have you try a manufacturer's reset, but I don't want you to lose any programming in the remote.

Make sure you don't get caught in this trap: Some Comcast remotes (at least the earlier one I've used) are JP1.1. There have been some occasional problems with our multi-purpose software (works with both JP1.1 and JP1.2) when using it with JP1.2 remotes. Consequently, some suppliers have disabled the JP1.1 capability in the interfaces they build, leaving them useful for only JP1.2. If you try to use one of those interfaces with a JP1.1 remote, it will fail. On the other hand, if the URC-1067bx3 is a JP1.3 remote, it will work the same as a JP1.2, and disabling JP1.1 should be irrelevant.

The only other idea I have, one you may not have the luxury of, is to try another JP1.x remote. I strongly recommend that you stick to using the JP1xTEST program until it indicates successful operation. You have nothing to gain by trying to use IR, and it just adds more variables that can result in confusion or misdiagnosis.

Tommy

[abroadst]

Thanks Tommy.

I already did a manufacturer reset once, I think, which left several of the buttons unprogrammed ("On Demand" and "Live"). It was the only way I could get the remote to work with both the Scientific Atlanta box and my DVD player. I can do it again. Perhaps you could remind me of the proper sequence for a reset to make sure I'm doing it right

I don't have any other JP1.x remotes, unfortunately, or a JP1.1 cable. So I'm not sure there's much else I can try.

-Andrew

[abroadst]

To reset I tried holding down setup until it blinked twice and then typing 981. I also used 982. No change.

Is there a way to program macros for keys like the "On Demand" key without the PC interface, using some kind of key press sequence?

[Capn Trips]

Although your remote's manual doesn't mention this capability, most UEIC-manufactured remotes that ARE capable of having their macros reprogrammed use the following procedure.

PROGRAMMING MACRO KEYS
Macro keys allow you to set up key
macros to activate certain keys in a specific order. For
example, you can set up a key macro to change the
channels on your TV, raise or lower the volume, and
start recording on your VCR, all with the touch of one
key. If you want to change the macros stored in a
previously-programmed macro key, you’ll need to clear
the key first (see “Clearing a Macro Key” below).

Programming a Macro Key
1. On the remote control, press and hold SETUP
until it blinks twice.
2. Enter 9 9 5. The SETUP key blinks twice.
3. Select a macro key (for example, F1) and
press it once.
4. Press the key sequence you want to program
into the macro. For example, to turn on your
TV and raise its volume, press TV followed by
VOL+.
NOTE: You can program up to 15 key presses into one
macro.
5. Press and hold SETUP until it blinks twice.
6. To add another macro, repeat steps 1 through
5, substituting the new key sequence to be
added in step 4.
NOTE: Programming more than five macros on the
same macro key overwrites previous settings.

Clearing a Macro Key
1. On the remote control, press and hold SETUP
until it blinks twice.
2. Enter 9 9 5. The SETUP key blinks twice.
3. Press the macro key you want to clear once.
4. Press and hold SETUP until it blinks twice.
This macro key is now clear and ready for
reprogramming. If desired, repeat these to clear another Macro.

USING THE MASTER POWER KEY

NOTE: MASTER POWER (PWR) only works in the CBL
mode. If it is not programmed, only the cable
converter will turn on or off. In any other
mode, pressing MASTER POWER (PWR) once
will turn the selected device on or off.
Programming the Master Power Key
1. On the remote control, press and hold SETUP
until the last-selected device key blinks twice.
2. Enter 9 9 5. The last-selected device key
blinks twice.
3. Press PWR once.
4. For the first device you want in the power on
sequence, press a device key (e.g., CBL) once.
Then press PWR once. For the second device
in the power sequence, press its key once (e.g,
TV). Then press PWR.
5. Repeat step 4 up to four more times to add the
second, third, fourth, and fifth device, as
desired.
6. To save the settings and exit the program:
a. Press CBL once.
b. Press and hold SETUP until the CBL key blinks
twice.

It costs you nothing to try. That Power key business near the bottom of that excerpt is just a glorified macro. Who knows, you may be able to program a macro to ANY button. You won't know until you try.

[abroadst]

995 worked for reprogramming the "On Demand" button. Thanks for that. I'm still interested in making the PC interface work, though. Do you think it would be worthwhile to buy and try a JP1.1 cable? Is there anything else I can try?

Thanks to all.
-Andrew