JP1 Remotes

I have spent a considerable amount of time studying the wiring of the URC-2060 from the images that Randy has kindly supplied and concluded that there is no significant difference, from our point of view, from the standard wiring of a JP1.4 remote. I see from his images that the PCB does label the 6-pin connector as JP1.4, so that removes any doubt as to how UEI regards this remote. All six pins are connected to the 24-pin processor, which I believe to be an S3F80P5X (or very similar), with our pin number and the processor datasheet label as follows:

1 = 3.3V, 2 = nRESET/P0.2/INT2, 3 = Vss, 4 = SDAT/P0.0/INT0, 5 = TEST, 6 = SCLK/P0.1/INT1.

Tommy's examination of an OARI06G, also JP1.4, found a 44-pin processor which he identfied as an S3F80KB. I can find no such processor and take it to be an S3F80JB which Rob has posted as the JP1.3 processor. He has the following connections for the 6-pin connector, with the datasheet labels of that processor:

1 = 3.3V, 2 = nRESET, 3 = Vss, 4 = P3.0/TOPWM/T0CAP/SDAT, 5 = TEST, 6 = P3.1/REM/SCLK.

All this seems to match. Both datasheets say that TEST is normally set Low (0), setting it to High (1) puts the remote in TOOL mode in which the flash memory can be programmed by an external programmer through a serial interface using SDAT (pin 4) and SCLK (pin 6). In normal mode, these pins are available as P0.0/P0.1 or P3.0/P3.1 programmable I/O pins which we connect as TXD and RXD. Both processors have pin 2 available as nRESET, connected to RTS in our cables.

So for a long time I thought all was well and the remote should be programmable as any other JP1.4 remote. There was just one minor problem that puzzled me. This was the number of pins of the S3F80P5X that were connected in the remote, which was 23 of its 24 pins. The ones not used by the 6-pin connector are given on the datasheet as

Xin, Xout which are system clock input and output pins,
P0.3 - P0.7, P1.0 - P1.7 which are general I/O pins,
P2.0 which is a further general I/O pin,
P3.0 and P3.1 which are I/O pins with high current drive capability.

These are 18 pins of which only 17 appear to be allocated because of the total of 23 in use. Xin and Xout are connected to an external crystal, P3.0 and P3.1 appear to be connected to the IR LED and the LED on the Cable Power key. The backlight LEDs (many of them) need one pin, which may be P2.0. All LEDs are connected to GND (Vss) for their second pin.

This leaves P0.3 - P0.7 and P1.0 - P1.7 available for the keypad matrix. There are 40 keys, probably set as a 5 x 8 matrix, so 13 pins for the matrix and 13 pins are available, using all 24 pins. BUT ONLY 23 PINS ARE CONNECTED IN THE REMOTE! What is going on?

Unfortunately I have the solution. The one disparity between the 6-pin connectors in the two processors is that pin 2 is purely nRESET in the S3F80JB but has alternative uses as nRESET/P0.2/INT2 in the S3F80P5X. Careful reading of the datasheet shows that the nRESET/P0.2/INT2 pin acts as nRESET only in TOOL mode. If you look at the datasheet chapters on RESET for the two processors, the S3F80JB lists six different system reset sources, that for the S3F80P5X lists only five. The lists are the same apart from the one missing from the S3F80P5X, which is the External Reset Pin (nRESET). The only place nRESET/P0.2/INT2 is mentioned as nRESET is in the chapter on programming the flash memory in TOOL mode. So in normal mode it acts as another general I/O output pin P0.2, giving 14 pins P0.2 - P0.7 and P1.0 - P1.7 available for the 13 needed for the keypad matrix, so needing only 23 connections in all to the processor.

Puzzle resolved but the solution is that this remote does not have the ability to modify the flash memory externally in normal mode. The existing firmware can modify it so that the E2 area can function as it does in any other JP1.4 remote, but we cannot do so. Perhaps this should not be a surprise, as the overview at the start of the datasheet shows that this processor has only 18kb of flash, compared with the 64kb of the S3F80JB.

mathdon wrote:I have spent a considerable amount of time studying the wiring of the URC-2060

Puzzle resolved but the solution is that this remote does not have the ability to modify the flash memory externally in normal mode. .

Great work Graham
It does not surprise me that we can not modify this remote
But at least the info you discovered may be of use to future JP1 users

Randy, I have done some experiments today on the URC-2060 to see if I could find a way to determine whether a JP1.4 remote which fails the RTS test with RealTerm was one like the URC-2060 with a S3F80P5X processor that we cannot connect to. I was looking for something positive, as I don't like drawing conclusions from something NOT happening. I am mystified by my findings, as they are inconsistent.

My first attempt, which I thought would work, was to connect GND to pin 3 and RTS to pin 2 as usual, but also DTR to pin 5 using a CP2102 interface as that has a DTR pin and make no other connections. This enabled me to control the TEST pin of the processor with RealTerm as this is connected to pin 5 of the 6-pin connector. My understanding from the datasheet was that in TEST mode, that is with TEST set, RTS WOULD act as RESET and so would give two flashes when cleared. It didn't, so that idea failed though I still don't understand why.

Then I used a Chip Partner cable to check what you said originally, that clearing RTS with RealTerm would turn on the backlight. I am certain that I checked this when I first received the remote from you. Now it didn't work, but what clearing RTS did was output 0 on the RealTerm screen but not turn the backlight on.

I then tried what you said HAD produced two flashes which was (heart in mouth!) to reverse the connector and then do the RTS test. That didn't work for me. I then checked that the remote still worked normally, sending IR signals and turning on the backlight for a short period on each keypress. All worked correctly.

I went back to the Chip Partner cable connected normally to see what, if anything, happened this time on clearing RTS. I hoped that either it would turn on the backlight (your behaviour) or output 0 on the screen (as I had just found). Now neither happened. The remote still works normally.

I do not know what to make of these results. It is possible that reversing the connector has damaged the communication mechanism, even though it did not for you, but even so we have had different positive behaviour to clearing RTS on at least one occasion.

mathdon wrote:. I am mystified by my findings, as they are inconsistent.

I do not know what to make of these results. It is possible that reversing the connector has damaged the communication mechanism, even though it did not for you, but even so we have had different positive behaviour to clearing RTS on at least one occasion.

I also ran into inconsistent results and thought I damaged the remote
To be on the safe side I closed Realterm and also pulled the batteries from the remote
and did a "980 and 981"
The remote returned to its previous state with no harm done
Perhaps they have things scrambled or copy protection to prevent changes ?

I have found how to use the URC-2060BC0 with RMIR. This would apply to any other remote that uses the 24-pin S3F80P5X, which I suspect may be the case with the remote that Tiku has trouble with. It is also the situation with the URC-2020B0-B1 which already has an RDF in RMIR.

The solution is REMOVE THE BATTERIES AND MODIFY THE WIRING TO THE CONNECTOR BY CONNECTING RTS TO PIN 1 RATHER THAN PIN 2. This applies to remotes with either the usual 6-pin connector used by the URC 2060BC0 or the 5-hole external connector used by the URC 2020B0-B1 as pins 1 and 2 correspond on both types of connector.

I have posted development build RMIR v3.1.8 in the RMIR Development folder on SourceForge. This includes RDF, map and image files for both the URC 2060BC0 and the URC 2020B0-B1. The RDFs for both remotes include a note explaining this method of connection.

Awesome work Graham
I never expected this remote to ever work in RMIR
I am in awe
Thank You

Thanks Graham your persistence paid off
The URC-2060BC0 is now downloading and uploading as you describe
The remote works as it is supposed to the only peculiarity that i observe
is that when i upload an upgrade the upgrade does not work
It works after i do a 980 reset though
Perhaps since to save myself time I am leaving the cable connected to the remote and only unplugging the USB from the computer I will do more tests some other time though
URC website states All keys on the remote are dedicated to controlling your cable box except for the TV POWER, VOLUME, and MUTE, and INPUT keys.
So the digit keys will not work for the TV
This remote has bigger buttons than some of them and will work perfectly
To operate a TV and DVR Just what I wanted it for
Once again
Thanks Graham

The solution is REMOVE THE BATTERIES AND MODIFY THE WIRING TO THE CONNECTOR BY CONNECTING RTS TO PIN 1 RATHER THAN PIN 2.

Graham i am still getting no remote found in my OSN Jp 1.4 Remote. I just Changed RTS From Pin2 To Pin1 In My 6 Pin Header.
Can make make out from the pic, which processor is behind the blob?

Tiku wrote:Can make make out from the pic, which processor is behind the blob?

Yes. The blob is in a different orientation to that in HamburgerHelper1's URC2060 but looks otherwise identical in its wiring. So it is an S3F80P5X. You say "I just Changed RTS From Pin2 To Pin1 In My 6 Pin Header" but you don't say that you took the batteries out. This is essential.

If it still doesn't work the no batteries and the RTS change, it might be something to do with the cable you are using. What cable is it?

but you don't say that you took the batteries out

You mean to say that i have to click download without the batteries inserted in the remote? If yes then i didn't do that, I just pulled the batteries out and then re-inserted the batteries again selected the remote in the RMIR and clicked download and Got "NO Remote Found".

I am using FT232RL (red pcb) usb-ttl serial cable.

Tiku wrote:

but you don't say that you took the batteries out

You mean to say that i have to click download without the batteries inserted in the remote? If yes then i didn't do that, I just pulled the batteries out and then re-inserted the batteries again selected the remote in the RMIR and clicked download and Got "NO Remote Found".

Yes, he meant to take the batteries out while you're using RMIR, only put them back in again afterwards.

Yes, he meant to take the batteries out while you're using RMIR, only put them back in again afterwards.

Kudos to Graham, This Time It Worked,but i am I am getting No Signature Found Starting with 3579

here is the pic

Glad it worked. The "No signature found" message simply means that we have no RDF for this remote. I am sure I have seen a post from Rob saying that he is willing to create one. If not, then despite what I have said in the past, I am willing to do so as a new remote with the S3F80P5X processor is of interest to me.

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=27117

I got your files Tiku, the next step is to create some macros. I count about 45 buttons on the remote, so 3 macros should cover it. I would suggest placing the macros on the colored buttons. Like, put the first macro on RED, the 2nd on GREEN and the 3rd on YELLOW. As you're not putting a macro on BLUE, be sure to include it on of the 3 macros. There's no need to put red, green and yellow in the macros as I can get their codes from the macro button itself.

When you create the macros, keep a note of exactly which buttons are in it, and in which order, then I will compare your list to the macro in the .ir file in order to get the button codes.

My fear is that this remote doesn't support macros or keymoves, in which we'll have to try getting the button codes the really hard way, which will be creating an upgrade for one of your personal devices, loading it up and then seeing where the functions end up. It's a painstaking process, but it's all that I can think of without PCB codes, macros or keymoves.

The website for OSN STBs is here:
https://www.osn.com/en-eg/osn-box/plus-hd

See if you can find a user manual, that will tell you what the substitute SETUP button is, like press TV_Power and OK simultaneously, something like that.

we'll have to try getting the button codes the really hard way

Just a silly query, isn't it possible to extract macros or button codes from the previous OSN 1.4 Remote files which you had created for me, as long as i remember it was also 1.4 version, since a do not recall it now.

Or if you want i may try to find the older OSN 1.4 Zip file which must be lying somwhere in my laptop?

here is the first thread Regarding OSN Remote
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... highlight=