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Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 3:18 pm
by Capn Trips
floyd1977 wrote: I just tried it out, and it is a nuisance to me, but it may not be to someone more patient. Holding down Vol+ resulted in a slightly faster than +1/sec rate (1 Hz, I guess?)
I would guess db
floyd1977 wrote::
Macro Vol+ = DEV_TV;SHIFT-VOL+;DEV_AUD;SHIFT-VOL+;SHIFT-VOL+
Macro Vol- = DEV_TV;SHIFT-VOL-;DEV_AUD;SHIFT-VOL-;SHIFT-VOL-
RECV Vol+ (LKP) = Short: [Blank], Long: Vol+
RECV Vol- (LKP) = Short: [Blank], Long: Vol-
Changing the macros to increment/decrement volume 2 steps at a time made things more bearable. This goes along with Capn's suggestion of fine tuning to find the right ratio of receiver volume : TV volume.
A few questions:
The discussion above was sort of predicated on the premise that you would have the LKP call itself at the end of the long leg (i.e. put a Vol+ command at the end of the Long sequence). But the way you built it, I'm not sure whether it's calling the Macro or the LKP at the end, since you have TWO sequences assigned to the same button - ONE via the macro, and another via the LKP. I would put the macros on some other button, like xshift-Vol, and the LKP on the Vol button as you have and then append that button to the end of the LKP long sequence (I recognize your use of shift-cloaking for the raw functions within your macro)
Does this actually repeat if you hold down the Vol button? If it does, I'm surprised, since the way you have this constructed, you should get EXACTLY 1 increment of TV Vol and 2 increments of RCVR Vol for each Long press, regardless of how long you hold the button down.
Are you using a delay of ZERO? Then why not put one increment of each on the short leg? Then you have the fine granularity you want for a super-short keypress.
Just thinking out loud.
Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 3:41 pm
by floyd1977
Wow, I really screwed that up. It was right in IR, but not as I typed it before. Sorry! Here is the corrected version.
Macro Vol+ = DEV_TV;SHIFT-VOL+;DEV_AUD;SHIFT-VOL+;XSHIFT-VOL+
Macro Vol- = DEV_TV;SHIFT-VOL-;DEV_AUD;SHIFT-VOL-;XSHIFT-VOL-
RECV XSHIFT-Vol+ (LKP) = Short: [Blank], Long: Vol+
RECV XSHIFT-Vol- (LKP) = Short: [Blank], Long: Vol-
floyd1977 wrote:
I just tried it out, and it is a nuisance to me, but it may not be to someone more patient. Holding down Vol+ resulted in a slightly faster than +1/sec rate (1 Hz, I guess?)
I would guess db
I did mean 1/sec, which is Hz. I was referring at the rate the signal was sent, not the increase in volume.
Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 1:14 am
by scubasteve
so it works then? good to know. Looks like I've got a bit of homework for myself. Back when I was into jp1, I never learned extenders at all, so I'll have to research that.
I was hoping to have this done by father's day, but having to learn extenders, I dunno if that's gonna happen that soon (I'm fairly busy this week).
Plus I was hoping to get him a simpler remote, less confusion: I'm thinking this one looks about right:
http://www.ofausa.com/remote.php?type=URC4220
of course the RF/IR ones are all more of the high end type, with 8 devices, lots of buttons (i.e. lots of buttons to confuse him).
I think I'll just get the simpler model and hope that it gives a stronger signal than the old POS remote for his receiver. I mean its not frosted glass or anything, I would think it wouldn't be that hard for IR light to get through it.
Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 2:02 am
by Capn Trips
floyd1977 wrote:I did mean 1/sec, which is Hz. I was referring at the rate the signal was sent, not the increase in volume.
So you mean 1db/sec

I'm not sure that's precisely a "Hertz" (which is usually defined as a "dimensionless quantity"-or "cycles" per sec.

).
Anywhoooo ... it's cool that it works.
scubasteve wrote:I was hoping to have this done by father's day, but having to learn extenders, I dunno if that's gonna happen that soon
I'm not gonna tell ya how much time you have or don't, and there certainly is a bit of a learning curve, but from my own experience, I was extrememly hesitant to dive into the extender the first time, but once I started - step-by-step, just like with all matters JP1, it really was pretty understandable.
The key thing to remember is that the "new" OFA remotes are likely NOT JP1-capable, as most of them are the new JP1.2 for which the tools are being developed, but are not yet ready for prime-time. In particular, the 4220 you're looking at is NOT on the list of currently-identified JP1 remotes, and I would doubt that it is. It CERTAINLY has no extender developed for it.
Now I'm not shilling for Robman, but in the marketplace section, his sticky post lists a bunch of JP1-ready remotes he sells (or converts as necessary and sells) at probably the best prices and shipping speed around. Read the first post in that multi-post thread and I'd recommend you get gramps a modified old-style 6131 or 8811. Both are JP1-ready and have extenders. If you really need the RF blaster, then the 9910 is the way to go - but it's a little bulkier.
Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 5:56 am
by floyd1977
Capn Trips wrote:
floyd1977 wrote:
I did mean 1/sec, which is Hz. I was referring at the rate the signal was sent, not the increase in volume.
So you mean 1db/sec I'm not sure that's precisely a "Hertz" (which is usually defined as a "dimensionless quantity"-or "cycles" per sec. ).
Not to beat a dead horse here, but 1/sec (no units on top, in other words sec^-1)
is 1 hertz. I'm not talking about dB, but just the number of cycles of the IR command being sent out per second.
I guess my mistake was my original statement of +1/sec, since Hertz are not signed.
Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 6:44 am
by Capn Trips
Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:22 am
by The Robman
I dunno why that showed up as an additional post from me, all I did was fix the BBCode in Floyd's post. But regardless, I deleted the extra post.
Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 6:41 am
by scubasteve
Capn Trips wrote:The key thing to remember is that the "new" OFA remotes are likely NOT JP1-capable, as most of them are the new JP1.2 for which the tools are being developed, but are not yet ready for prime-time. In particular, the 4220 you're looking at is NOT on the list of currently-identified JP1 remotes, and I would doubt that it is. It CERTAINLY has no extender developed for it.
Now I'm not shilling for Robman, but in the marketplace section, his sticky post lists a bunch of JP1-ready remotes he sells (or converts as necessary and sells) at probably the best prices and shipping speed around. Read the first post in that multi-post thread and I'd recommend you get gramps a modified old-style 6131 or 8811. Both are JP1-ready and have extenders. If you really need the RF blaster, then the 9910 is the way to go - but it's a little bulkier.
well poo. I actually went out and bought that remote at Walmart before reading this. I liked that remote for him because it's not overly complicated, has big buttons, etc.
the remotes such as the 6131 and 8811 have significantly more buttons, and I don't think would be as easy for him.
the layout of the 6131n seems a little less cluttered IMO. Does anyone know if that remote is: 1. jp1 2. if you can use the extenders for the 6131 with it? 3. of a store that sells it.
Best Buy (online atleast) has the 6131, so I may end up with that anyway. They also sell the 8910 online, so it will probably be one of those. OFA's website says that circuit city sells their remotes, but the CC website doesn't have any listed.
Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 6:54 am
by Capn Trips
scubasteve wrote:
the layout of the 6131n seems a little less cluttered IMO. Does anyone know if that remote is: 1. jp1 2. if you can use the extenders for the 6131 with it? 3. of a store that sells it.
Yes, somebody knows.
Oh, you want to know whether it IS JP1-compatible, not just if "somebody knows" if it is? Why didn't you say so?
1. Yes, it is, but requires modification (addition of an EEPROM and 6-pin header);
2. Yes you can - they are electronically indistinguishable from one another;
3. Check the marketplace section of this forum and the vendors who have advertising banners on these pages - I repeat, Rob sells these (JP1-ready! - as opposed to the store-bought version which you will have to solder upon to modify)
Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 8:42 am
by The Robman
I haven't seen a URC-4220 "Big Easy" in person, but my guess is that it isn't a JP1 or JP1.2 remote. The cheap remotes are usually disposable. To verify, just look in the battery compartment to see whether there's a 6-pin connector, my bet is that there isn't.
The store bought URC-6131 remotes are not JP1 compatible, but they can be made compatible with a hardware mod. I sell modified URC-6131 remotes.
The URC-8811 and URC-8910 are JP1 ready out of the box, and I sell both of these models also.
If you want something less cluttered as far as the buttons are concerned, a
Millenium 4 might be the remote for you. All the buttons at the buttom of the remote are hidden under a sliding cover, so if you think he won't need them, he can just keep the cover closed.
I think I have a few spare Mil4 remotes somewhere, so I could probably sell you one if that's the way you decide to go.
Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:15 pm
by floyd1977
Am I the only one who hates the number keys that are shaped like numbers?
Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:33 pm
by The Robman
floyd1977 wrote:Am I the only one who hates the number keys that are shaped like numbers?
You're not the only one, I especially dislike the tiny number buttons on the URC-7800, but I have a feeling that they might work for this situation.
Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 1:58 pm
by gfb107
I don't like how they look, but I like the fact that you can distinguish them by feel, so you don't have to look at the remote to use them.
Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 3:30 pm
by scubasteve
floyd1977 wrote:Am I the only one who hates the number keys that are shaped like numbers?
actually i don't like them at all, but I figured they would be good for my grandfather.
Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 3:54 pm
by scubasteve
The Robman wrote:I haven't seen a URC-4220 "Big Easy" in person, but my guess is that it isn't a JP1 or JP1.2 remote. The cheap remotes are usually disposable. To verify, just look in the battery compartment to see whether there's a 6-pin connector, my bet is that there isn't.
The store bought URC-6131 remotes are not JP1 compatible, but they can be made compatible with a hardware mod. I sell modified URC-6131 remotes.
The URC-8811 and URC-8910 are JP1 ready out of the box, and I sell both of these models also.
If you want something less cluttered as far as the buttons are concerned, a
Millenium 4 might be the remote for you. All the buttons at the buttom of the remote are hidden under a sliding cover, so if you think he won't need them, he can just keep the cover closed.
I think I have a few spare Mil4 remotes somewhere, so I could probably sell you one if that's the way you decide to go.
The 4220 is in the same category on OFA's website as the 6131, so I'm betting its similar to that. If its possible to use jp1, it probably has to be modded like the 6131. I haven't actually opened it yet because I read the post here and figure I'm returning it.
Since this is a rather last minute thing, it seems like the best candidate is the 8910 as I can buy that locally tonight. If I had more time, I'd definitely buy from you (and who knows, I may end up not liking the 8910 for him and getting something else later on), but tomm. night is about the only free time I have before sunday, so if I'm gonna do this, I need to do it then.
Out of curiousity, that Mil4, there aren't extenders for it, are there? I didn't see any listed here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jp1/files/Extenders/
https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... &cat_id=36