JP1 Remotes

pH7_jp1 · Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 8:57 am Post subject: Dead 15-100?

I was doing quite a few uploads to my 15-100, but not more than for any normal programming session. Suddenly IR couldn’t communicate any more. I put new batteries in and when that didn’t help, I decided to do a MFR reset. That is when I finally noticed that even when replacing the batteries, there was nothing happening – no screen display as usually seen on reset, no LED flash, nothing.

So, is it really dead, or is there something else that I didn’t think of to try?

This was one of the modified 15-100s that I had for sale: http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10935. It had been tested as I described in that post and was ready to be shipped out. I’m really glad it happened to me instead of someone who had bought it only to have it fail after an hour or two.

unclemiltie · Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:35 am Post subject:

There have been some reported cases where JP1.3 remotes have been put into a strange state by "noise" on the interface. I've seen it reported before on the Atlas remotes. There are a couple of posts in here (that I can't find) on how to get it back to normal. That may be your issue here.

-bill
_________________
this JP1 stuff is a sickness!

Tommy Tyler · Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:42 am Post subject:

Phil,

Considering the extent of modifications you had to go through to make the 15-100 JP1-able, I think there's no alternative than to open 'er up and look for broken or shorted wiring connections or other possible damage. A "completely dead" remote is very rare, and doesn't happen often enough that anyone can say what usually causes it. But I do think you can rule out the processor being locked up in some strange state because that's always kicked loose when you remove batteries. The only meaningful test I can think of would be to try and put a meter in series with the batteries and see if there is any, or excessive, current being drawn.

pH7_jp1 · Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 6:34 pm Post subject:

Hi Tommy,

Thanks, I will try that. I did open it up, checked the continuity for each of the 5 lines from the header pins to the PCB and for shorts between them. I also checked the voltage at the primary points on the PCB, but didn't think to check the current.

Tommy Tyler · Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 7:19 pm Post subject:

Admittedly, current is a long shot. What you're looking for is something unusual, such as (1)absolute zero current (as near as you can tell) meaning the battery circuit is broken somewhere; (2) very heavy current (in excess of 100 mA) meaning the battery circuit is shorted somewhere; (3) normal quiescent current of less than 100 uA (probably the worst news, because it means we haven't a clue).

pH7_jp1 · Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 2:52 pm Post subject:

It looks like this falls into the "we haven't a clue" category. My multimeter is very limited and has only 2 ranges: 50uA and 250mA. The current is over the top of 50uA and doesn't even register on the 250mA. This is the same as a known good one.

When I replace the batteries in the good one, I get 2 blinks of the LED and all segments on the LCD for a short time. On the "dead" one neither happens.

Tommy Tyler · Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 5:35 pm Post subject:

Well I'm stumped. The red LED and the display and the serial communications are pretty much independent of each other except for sharing the processor. The fact that NOTHING works may mean the processor has failed, or the memory is badly corrupted. I don't have any more ideas to try. Sorry.