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JP-1/IR control of a light...

 
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greenough1



Joined: 30 Jan 2005
Posts: 659

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 5:04 pm    Post subject: JP-1/IR control of a light... Reply with quote

Hi Guys,
I want to instal an Ideal-lume backlight ( http://www.ideal-lume.com/standard ) in the HT. It will be mounted on the back of the TV and the on/off switch won't be reachable.

Any suggestions on how to turn it on/off via and IR remote? Lowest cost? Compatible with JP1-able remotes? (I have looked at x10 briefly, but looks like you have to buy into their hardware and I'd need an interface/converter for JP1 to work, IIRC).

I do have an IR distribution system in place that can be extended to control some hardware
Thanks,
jeff
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
Posts: 18077
Location: Chicago, IL

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would use X10 myself. You can buy an IR543 box from homeautomationnet.com for $20 and then you'll need an appliance module to plug the Ideal into. You will be able to control the device using HOME/0167 or any X10 upgrade from the file section.
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Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!


Last edited by The Robman on Tue Jul 03, 2007 10:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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greenough1



Joined: 30 Jan 2005
Posts: 659

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rob. I'll check that out.
Best, jeff
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greenough1



Joined: 30 Jan 2005
Posts: 659

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rob,
I ordered the the applianceLinc and the IR receiver/controller. I also added the X-10 simple upgrade and created the necessary keymoves.

Thank looks to be the best solution.

Thanks for your help,
jeff
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pH7_jp1



Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Posts: 443
Location: Sterling Heights, MI

PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have back lighting set up as Rob suggested. The X-10 control has only discrete on/discrete off. On most devices this is preferred, but for the backlight a toggle made more sense to me. I used toadtog to give me a toggle power for this device. Of course this felt strange to do just the opposite of all my other uses of toadtog, but it allowed me to control the light as I wanted.
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greenough1



Joined: 30 Jan 2005
Posts: 659

PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi pH7_jp1,
I've not used toadtog eventhough I'm using most other features of the extender (both the 8811 and the 8910 extenders). I should add that to my list of things to learn Wink I could use a toggle for my RCVR mute function. It gets out of sync (muted when I want un-muted and visa-versa) very easily.

Best,
jeff
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pH7_jp1



Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Posts: 443
Location: Sterling Heights, MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The parameters for ToadTog for this application is pretty simple:
If the bit is off, then send the discrete to turn mute On and force the bit on. If the bit is on, then send the discrete to turn mute Off and force the bit off. The worst that happens if you get out if sync, is that you give the remote a funny look, hit the same button again and all is well.
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greenough1



Joined: 30 Jan 2005
Posts: 659

PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
I put together a first cut toadtog, prior to your post. I defined it as a force on/force off, not toggle, and describe it here:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7377&start=15

With the way I did it, looking at the remote funny and hitting the key again doesn't fix it, although my old way of doing it did fix it. But I was guarenteed to be out of sync when switching between CBL and DVD.

I haven't exhaustively tested the setup, but under more or less normal conditions, RCVR mute doesn't get out of sync.

do you have a different solution?

Best,
jeff
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pH7_jp1



Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Posts: 443
Location: Sterling Heights, MI

PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, I misunderstood your first post in this thread. The comment I made about the light was for a device that has only a discrete on, discrete off, and not toggle. I used toadtog "backwards" to enable a toggle for such a device. From your most recent comment, you are using toadtog in the "normal" fashion, that is to give you a On function on one button and an Off function on another for a device that only has toggle. So my comment about getting back in sync is totally inappropriate in your case.
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greenough1



Joined: 30 Jan 2005
Posts: 659

PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This follow-up probably should be in the X-10 subforum, but I'll put it here.

I got the IR543 and an ApplianceLinc as linked by Rob above. I got it all working in the office, before attempting to install it in the HT (home theater). (side note: I could not get the ApplianceLinc to respond to A1. I tried A4 and that worked, so I didn't test further).
The HT is on a 15amp circuit and I've not done a careful assessment of the power consumption for all component (AVR, DVR, DVD, CD, TV, VCR, 2 subwoofers, 1 low-voltage torche lamp, equipment rack lights (2@ 15W), ceiling fan/light. Adding the AppliancLinc controller trips the main panel breaker. I tried it in 3 different plugs and in one power strip all on the same circuit with the same results.

I found another solution for the backlight, but it requires I get up to hit the switch. The HT cabinets have a "touch-light" (you touch a metal bracket and the lights come on and have a low, medium and high setting). I plugged the backlight into this touch-light. turnin on the cabinet lights turns on the backlight. Not an optimal solution, but workable.

Now I've got to try and RMA the IR543 and ApplianceLinc. I'm pretty sure they'll hit me with a 15% restocking fee.

The family room circuit is troubling. I probably need to get an electrician out again.

Best,
jeff
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The Robman
Site Owner


Joined: 01 Aug 2003
Posts: 18077
Location: Chicago, IL

PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Given that the IR543 is so cheap (the $20 price that HAN charges is half of what some places charge), I would recommend that you keep it as I bet you'll find another use for it somewhere.

There might be a problem with the ApplianceLinc module. Radio Shack also sells lamp modules under their "Plug & Power" series, like the 61-3002, so you could try getting one from RS to see if it performs any better. If it does, keep the IR543 and return the ApplianceLinc, or use the ApplianceLinc in a different room.

Once you have an IR543 set up, you can also control the main lights if you replace the wall switches with X10 wall switches. If any of your devices have push-pull type POWER buttons, which means you can't turn them on with the remote, you can hook them up to X10 modules and power them on using your remote.
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GLT



Joined: 25 Feb 2005
Posts: 47

PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My guess is you blew the appliancelinc (probably the subwoofers) - but the fact it didn't work on A1 may mean it was faulty anyway.

From Smarthome :

Maximum Current
(For Resistive Loads): 15 amps
Maximum Wattage
(For Incandescent Loads): 480 watts


I have about 6 of the appliancelincs and only one is plugged in at the moment. I like that fact they are quiet, but they seem to revert to the A1 address on a power fluctuation.

I would probably use more than one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330144385348

They can be set to the SAME address (i.e. all three on A4) and then will come on with the same command. But:

1. They make a LOUD click.
2. You cannot easily disable "local control" on these units.

Local control allows you to flick a switch several times and have the module come on without having to send an X10 command. But it is problematic in that some items will turn themselves on. An example is when turning off a flourescent light, it will turn itself right back on.

If you are handy with electronics, there are modifications that can be made to address the above problems. They are found here:

http://www.geocities.com/idobartana/

HTH,

GLT

EDIT: BTW Rob's RS link is to a LAMP module which should ONLY be used on incandesent lights (but they dim nicely).
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
Posts: 18077
Location: Chicago, IL

PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2007 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GLT wrote:
BTW Rob's RS link is to a LAMP module which should ONLY be used on incandesent lights (but they dim nicely).

That was the only X10 module I could find on the RS site for some reason, maybe they're phasing out their "Plug & Power" line.
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Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
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