Upgrade for Go Video DV1030 doesn't work?
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I'm close ... I can tell. I can't seem to find the code for the power button though. The remote I'm programming will not allow that button to learn, and I cannot figure out how to get the EFC value from my earlier downloads. If I can figure this out, I'm now confident the rest will fall into place.
Is there a setting in IR.exe that shows this value? I see place where I need to put it in the Keymap Master XLS file.
Is there a setting in IR.exe that shows this value? I see place where I need to put it in the Keymap Master XLS file.
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The Robman
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Those all decode as Proton with a device code of 21, so that should give you all the info you need to build an upgrade. Don't worry about the buttons that appear to show multiple decodes, that's just because you didn't learn the buttons as well as you did the others. You can still read the OBC for the button from the first entry.
For buttons like the PLAY/PAUSE button, just enter it once in the KM file and then assign it to both the PLAY and PAUSE buttons on your JP1 remote.
For buttons like the PLAY/PAUSE button, just enter it once in the KM file and then assign it to both the PLAY and PAUSE buttons on your JP1 remote.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
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Capn Trips
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You have all of the info you need from above.
I'll just underscore that all of your learns are quite adequate to decode. Use the portion of the learned signal that decodes into a clean protocol/Device/OBC combination (Proton/21/XXX).
The "Gap" decodes that precede or follow are useless to you and me, and are immaterial - i.e it doesn't matter whether they match when they're "supposed" to or not. They indicate a weakness in your learning process. Likely causes were listed by me earlier in this thread. (Weak batteries in one or both remotes, or learning technique - i.e. the remotes are not steady relative to one another during the learn, the 2104 is not fully in learning mode before you start sending the signal from the OEM remote, you stop pressing the button on the OEM remote too early) Regardless, you have sufficient clarity in your decodes to build your upgrade in KM or RM.
As for the Power button, learn it to any other button and decode it. There's no requirement that you learn it to the Power button.
I'll just underscore that all of your learns are quite adequate to decode. Use the portion of the learned signal that decodes into a clean protocol/Device/OBC combination (Proton/21/XXX).
The "Gap" decodes that precede or follow are useless to you and me, and are immaterial - i.e it doesn't matter whether they match when they're "supposed" to or not. They indicate a weakness in your learning process. Likely causes were listed by me earlier in this thread. (Weak batteries in one or both remotes, or learning technique - i.e. the remotes are not steady relative to one another during the learn, the 2104 is not fully in learning mode before you start sending the signal from the OEM remote, you stop pressing the button on the OEM remote too early) Regardless, you have sufficient clarity in your decodes to build your upgrade in KM or RM.
As for the Power button, learn it to any other button and decode it. There's no requirement that you learn it to the Power button.
Beginners - Read this thread first
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!
Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!
Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
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underquark
- Expert
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- Location: UK
Save your IR file.Capn Trips wrote:As for the Power button, learn it to any other button and decode it. There's no requirement that you learn it to the Power button.
Clear the learning memory (from the remote or from within IR - just clear the memory and upload back to the remote).
Carefully attempt learns of the Power button to multiple different buttons and maybe one will give you a decent decode.
Incidentally, are you using 1s, 2s etc. to denote [Shift]-1, [Shift-2]? If so, then please remember that if you create an upgrade and assign a code to a Shifted-Numeric key then when it comes to selecting that button to send a signal that you have to press [Shift] twice before pressing the numeric key. If you're just using [shift]-1 etc. as a place to hold the decode temporarily then this doesn't matter.
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Capn Trips
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UQ,underquark wrote:Incidentally, are you using 1s, 2s etc. to denote [Shift]-1, [Shift-2]?
If you take a look at the 2104, it actually has 4 buttons labelled "1s", "2s", "3s", and "4s". They are designated as the "smart" buttons - designated for learning and/or macros, but as we all know, one can learn and assign macros to almost ANY button on most JP1 remotes
Beginners - Read this thread first
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!
Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!
Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
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underquark
- Expert
- Posts: 874
- Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 4:58 am
- Location: UK
Thanks. So used to macros on any button now with JP1. Come to think of it, I don't have anything at all programmed to the actual Macro button on my Kameleon 8040.Capn Trips wrote:If you take a look at the 2104, it actually has 4 buttons labelled "1s", "2s", "3s", and "4s". They are designated as the "smart" buttons
In my collection of CCF files, there is one including this code set. Since the CCF isn't in English, I can't tell whether it includes the Power function you were missing.
Anyway, I extracted its full list of OBC to function name (all of these are Pronto protocol, device 21).
It is very similar to the set of learned signals you posted, but with enough differences, I'm not sure whether you or the author of that CCF made mistakes about which button was which, or whether his device really has those differences from your device. You can easily tell which functions do what by testing.
0 --> 0
1 --> 1
2 --> 2
3 --> 3
4 --> 4
5 --> 5
6 --> 6
7 --> 7
8 --> 8
9 --> 9
10 --> reste
13 --> stop
14 --> play
15 --> >>
16 --> <<
17 --> pause
18 --> enr.imm
19 --> ralent
21 --> veille
22 --> tv/vcr
23 --> pr+
26 --> audio
27 --> vn/vl
31 --> sys.sel
33 --> eject
34 --> menu
37 --> +
41 --> ok
45 --> -
49 --> <
53 --> >
54 --> entree
55 --> align
57 --> shoview
Anyway, I extracted its full list of OBC to function name (all of these are Pronto protocol, device 21).
It is very similar to the set of learned signals you posted, but with enough differences, I'm not sure whether you or the author of that CCF made mistakes about which button was which, or whether his device really has those differences from your device. You can easily tell which functions do what by testing.
0 --> 0
1 --> 1
2 --> 2
3 --> 3
4 --> 4
5 --> 5
6 --> 6
7 --> 7
8 --> 8
9 --> 9
10 --> reste
13 --> stop
14 --> play
15 --> >>
16 --> <<
17 --> pause
18 --> enr.imm
19 --> ralent
21 --> veille
22 --> tv/vcr
23 --> pr+
26 --> audio
27 --> vn/vl
31 --> sys.sel
33 --> eject
34 --> menu
37 --> +
41 --> ok
45 --> -
49 --> <
53 --> >
54 --> entree
55 --> align
57 --> shoview
I thank you all for your help yesterday. I finally was able to take care of pretty much everything thanks to your patient help (and, I suppose, my patient reading). It definitely helped to reset my remote and learn from scratch ... I was having problems there. Also, Excel didn't have the ToolPak installed at first. Once I clued into that, the spreadsheet started working for me.
One final question: I noted the VPT settings, and am I correct in understanding that my remote only allows you to control one other device's volume across the board? In a perfect world, I'd like for my TV, VCR and CBL/SAT modes to control the TV volume, but the AUX, DVD and CD modes to control the AUX volume. AUX is my amplifier, which I tend only to use for my DVD/CD player.
But it seems that I can only assign one VPT device to my remote. Is that correct?
Also, should I publish these upgrades I created? I created one for VCR mode and one for DVD mode. Most of the buttons were the same, but it made sense to enable/disable some different buttons depending on the actual mode on the settop. e.g., disabling the record button on DVD mode, enabling the TV/VCR and Speed buttons on VCR mode, Enabling the directional buttons on DVD but using them for manual tracking on the VCR.
One final question: I noted the VPT settings, and am I correct in understanding that my remote only allows you to control one other device's volume across the board? In a perfect world, I'd like for my TV, VCR and CBL/SAT modes to control the TV volume, but the AUX, DVD and CD modes to control the AUX volume. AUX is my amplifier, which I tend only to use for my DVD/CD player.
But it seems that I can only assign one VPT device to my remote. Is that correct?
Also, should I publish these upgrades I created? I created one for VCR mode and one for DVD mode. Most of the buttons were the same, but it made sense to enable/disable some different buttons depending on the actual mode on the settop. e.g., disabling the record button on DVD mode, enabling the TV/VCR and Speed buttons on VCR mode, Enabling the directional buttons on DVD but using them for manual tracking on the VCR.
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The Robman
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- Location: Chicago, IL
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Yes, there's only 1 VPT device, so here's what you should do. Set the VPT to the TV and then turn on VPT for TV, VCR and CBL modes. Turn VPT off for AUX, CD and DVD modes. Then program keymoves to copy the volume buttons from AUX mode to DVD and CD modes. You could also use learning to program the volume buttons in DVD and CD modea by learning the buttons from your audio remote if you like.clator wrote:One final question: I noted the VPT settings, and am I correct in understanding that my remote only allows you to control one other device's volume across the board? In a perfect world, I'd like for my TV, VCR and CBL/SAT modes to control the TV volume, but the AUX, DVD and CD modes to control the AUX volume. AUX is my amplifier, which I tend only to use for my DVD/CD player.
But it seems that I can only assign one VPT device to my remote. Is that correct?
If at some point you decide to use the extender for this remote, your VPT options will be alot simpler.
Absolutely, all the other files in the file section are user created. We just need one file for this device though. It doesn't really matter whether it has the buttons programmed more for the "DVD" or the "VCR", just make sure to include all of the functions in the file, even if they are not assigned to buttons.clator wrote:Also, should I publish these upgrades I created? I created one for VCR mode and one for DVD mode. Most of the buttons were the same, but it made sense to enable/disable some different buttons depending on the actual mode on the settop.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
Sigh. I figured out how to set up the keymoves to program, and for whatever reason, when I attempted to upload, the remote is no longer responding on the JP1 connection. It will neither upload the settings nor download. I've even rebooted the machine, but still no response.
The remote itself still handles its previous functions fine, but I can't communicate with it any longer. At least, for the most part, it's operational with my equipment.
Could I have fried it out somehow? I'm hesitant to reset it, in the event I can't get back into it.
The remote itself still handles its previous functions fine, but I can't communicate with it any longer. At least, for the most part, it's operational with my equipment.
Could I have fried it out somehow? I'm hesitant to reset it, in the event I can't get back into it.
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Capn Trips
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This is "The Capn's standard answer number 1"clator wrote:Sigh. ... the remote is no longer responding on the JP1 connection. It will neither upload the settings nor download. I've even rebooted the machine, but still no response.
Could I have fried it out somehow? I'm hesitant to reset it, in the event I can't get back into it.
I have used the simple parallel interface for years, but I CAN assert that for me, different remotes with different computers (desktop vs. laptop) require various battery configurations ranging from fully charged to weak-ish, to virtually dead, to open-circuited. I suggest you try NEW batteries, but several different combinations:
- Old, weak batteries;
- If you have four batteries, try reversing one (this simulates very weak batteries);
- Try removing a battery (open-circuiting it).
Beginners - Read this thread first
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!
Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
READ BEFORE POSTING or your post will be DELETED!
Remotes: OFA XSight Touch, AR XSight Touch
TVs: LG 65" Smart LED TV; Samsung QN850BF Series - 8K UHD Neo QLED LCD TV
RCVR: Onkyo TX-SR875; Integra DTR 40.3
DVD/VCR: Pioneer DV-400VK (multi-region DVD), Sony BDP-S350 (Blu-ray), Toshiba HD-A3 (HD-DVD), Panasonic AG-W1 (Multi-system VCR);
Laserdisc: Pioneer CLD-D704.
Amazon Firestick
tape deck: Pioneer CT 1380WR (double cassette deck)
(But I still have to get up for my beer)
I changed batteries promptly as my first order of defense. Put in brand-new Energizers. Alas, still the same problem. And yes, it's still plugged in the same way.
It's one of those days.
Edit: Is there any chance of frying the connector? I don't know how I could have fried anything, but this is just weird. Duracells and Energizers are both failing it. Plus, the remote itself doesn't want to learn today. I tried to teach it a few more commands (with the memory flushed, so it isn't full) but it refused to learn. Same procedure, double and triple checked. Nada.
Edit: Captain, taking out the batteries allowed it to accept the program. Thanks. Tempermental remotes, aren't they?
It's one of those days.
Edit: Is there any chance of frying the connector? I don't know how I could have fried anything, but this is just weird. Duracells and Energizers are both failing it. Plus, the remote itself doesn't want to learn today. I tried to teach it a few more commands (with the memory flushed, so it isn't full) but it refused to learn. Same procedure, double and triple checked. Nada.
Edit: Captain, taking out the batteries allowed it to accept the program. Thanks. Tempermental remotes, aren't they?
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The Robman
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- Posts: 21890
- Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2003 9:37 am
- Location: Chicago, IL
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It's not the remote, it's the parallel interface. In order to make it cheap and easy to make, it's not quite as robust as it might be.clator wrote:Tempermental remotes, aren't they?
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
Well, the good news is that I got the uploads and downloads working by removing the batteries.
The bad news is, the keymoves didn't allow me to control the AUX volume when in DVD mode. (It still works in AUX mode so I have that part of the code correct).
I've uploaded the file to here: http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=3202
Do I have something wrong?
Thanks again for all your patience.
The bad news is, the keymoves didn't allow me to control the AUX volume when in DVD mode. (It still works in AUX mode so I have that part of the code correct).
I've uploaded the file to here: http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... le_id=3202
Do I have something wrong?
Thanks again for all your patience.