Question regarding 6131NW modding.
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Question regarding 6131NW modding.
Thanks to Tommy Tyler. I have managed to get the case apart on a new 6131nw. When I look inside I see the spot for the 6 pin header but I don't see a spot for an eeprom to go. I'm just a dumb old mechanical guy who usually uses all the information that you smart guys come up with to do any mods. I searched and didn't find any information that is directly related to the 6131nw. Is this going to require some creative jury-rigging? I wish I had the knowledge to figure all the trace stuff out and answer my own question but pipes are so much easier for me to figure out. I saw the post from Robman saying that he hasn't started modding the 6131nw yet and he prefers the old 6131. Well I have this one now and figured I would give it a go. It's only $13 at Walmart. The worst thing that could happen is I'm out that plus the header and eeprom price. As always any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Mark Pierson
- Expert
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I see a spot that looks like it could be where the eeprom goes. 8 pads that have solder bumps on them. It isn't labelled though. Now the question is how to determine the orientation of the eeprom to prevent installing it backwards. I don't like the 50/50/90 thing. It always works out that I install something the wrong way first. Maybe I should decide, change it 180 and install it. With my luck that would be the one time my first guess was right.
Have you read this?
-- Greg
Original RemoteMaster developer
JP1 How-To's and Software Tools
The #1 Code Search FAQ and it's answer (PLEASE READ FIRST)
Original RemoteMaster developer
JP1 How-To's and Software Tools
The #1 Code Search FAQ and it's answer (PLEASE READ FIRST)
I did see the post but did not follow it to the information on the 6011, 6012w because the remote was different. I did look at it now that you brought it up and it looks like it should prevent me from making a mistake provided the orientation is the same for the 6131nw and the 6011, 6012w for eeprom. To bad there are no pictures posted for the mod. I may have to make some of the mod as I do it. Then make a good title for people to search so they aren't asking my question again. Thanks for the help.
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The Robman
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The four spots that are tied together by the traces are for pins 1 thru 4.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
Hi guys, I was using the old 6011 remotes but it's been a while since I needed one and those are more scarce, as I'm sure you know.
So I got the 6131n which is fine with me. But I was used to the 6011 mod which required a JP1 jumper to be installed. I see no obvious place for a jumper on the 6131. Is a jumper required on the 6131n mod, or only the eeprom and header?
Thanks,
Scott
So I got the 6131n which is fine with me. But I was used to the 6011 mod which required a JP1 jumper to be installed. I see no obvious place for a jumper on the 6131. Is a jumper required on the 6131n mod, or only the eeprom and header?
Thanks,
Scott
I purchased 10 of each from Mouser. They were cheap and came in a few days. Here's the relevant info from my order:jsevinsk wrote:I just bought one of these remotes. Is there anyone who sells the EEPROM and 6-pin header as a mod kit?
Code: Select all
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ORDERED STOCK NUMBER SHIPPED PRICE EXTENDED
-----------------------------------------------------------------
10 579-24LC16B-I/SN 10 0.350 3.50
Microchip Serial EEP
2kx8 - 2.5V
10 538-10-89-7062 10 0.310 3.10
Molex C-Grid Connect
VERT BRKAWAY HDR 6P
-----------------------------------------------------------------
SHIPPING INFORMATION
FOB: SHP POINT
-----------------------------------------------------------------
MERCHANDISE 6.60
HANDLING 0.00
FREIGHT 3.07
TAX 0.00
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TOTAL $9.67I purchased and converted 8 of the 6131n remotes purchased from Overstock.com for less than $10 each. Took less than 2 hours.
A recommendation: use a thin putty knife, with a blade an inch or so wide, to open the sides. By about the fourth unit, I was snapping them open in well under a minute, with no visible marks at all.