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AIRWidget: an Arduino-based IR Widget
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2022 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The trouble with Mouser is, the shipping costs are usually pretty high, so that $2 part would probably come with $10 shipping (though I didn't check what the current costs are), that's why I was trying to source something from ebay.

I did order the Nano and the kit, and I just got an email saying I can expect the kit on Feb 1, 2023 Very Happy
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Barf
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2022 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boards: The Uno is definitely "identical", and can be used. If trying to use another board, check the following:

1, capacity of the chip, including frequency, memory (SRAM and flash).
2. Pinout
3. Which pins can be used, i.e, associated with an interrup with the attachinterrupt API call?
4. If using a QSE159 or similar, must be 5V tolerant (TSMP58xxx can work on 5 or 3.3 volts).

Casing: Unfortunately, I am not aware of professional quality cases for Nano and similar (as opposed to Uno etc). There are 3D-printed ones on eBay, but they look like the incarnation of the concept of ugly, and block the sensor (and possible LEDs). Instead, I prefer this: Get a smartphone mounting bracket for a (mini) tripod, cut a piece containing the thread, and attach the board, for example with zip ties or double adhesive tape. Then attach to a small tripod: the coolest on are the Gorillapods. This makes a board that stands very steadily on the desk. I may make photos...

LEDs: As I already said, I am a big fan of LEDs with integrated resistor, saving one component on the finished board. They are only marginally more expensive (Kingbright), easy to buy (unfortunately only red, yellow and green) (just google). Oh, and LEDs are not required at all, as I wrote previously (for example LED_BUILTIN).

Sensor: See above on 5V vs 3.3V. AFAIA, the QSExxx are optimized for 890nm light (wavelength of IrDA, not consumer IR, which uses 940-950nm).

Mouser: Ironically, I live within walking distance from their European HQ here in Munich. I emailed them if I could pick up order there; no, they send everything from Texas. I think the threshold for free shipping is relatively low (I think around 70 EUR when I last ordered.) Try to add things you need/want anyway: Raspberry Pis, tools, 3M duallock, SD-cards, TSMPs, LEDs, ...
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Barf
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2022 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Open collector etc: In a normal transistor circuit (bipolar, CE (common emitter)), there is a resistor between the collector and the supply voltage (often called Vcc), or something else that brings the pin in a defined state (high) when the transistor is not active (a "pull up"). I think in the context of local circuits, the "open collector" concept was invented: just leave out the pull up ("open collector"), connect the collectors from several different transistors together (normally, connecting outputs together is a no-no), and use one external resistor to Vcc for pull-up. That way, you get an AND-gate for free (more correctly, for the price of one resistor, which is cheaper than a 7408). For example the QSE157 (Kevin's choice) has a "totem-pole" pull-up, replacing the pull-up resistor with transistor(s), so that the diagram looks a bit like a totem pole. (QSE157 is end-of-life, replaced by OPL551). Altogether,

1. If you use an open-collector sensor, a pull-up must be supplied externally. The Arduino can do this internally in the chip, by using INPUT_PULLUP as second argument to pinMode function. (For some reason, Graham does not trust this, but supplies an extra pull-up resistor himself.)

2. If using a sensor with internal pull-ups, you may not use more than one sensor in parallel Smile. An external pull-up does not change anything (unless very small).

Short version: In 99% of all cases it does not matter. Use any.

Just for completeness: There are sensors with inverted ouput (light -> low, no light -> high), and with non-inverted output (for example QSE156,QSE158). The firmware discussed here all use inverting sensors. MikeT used a non-inverting sensor (Panasonic IIRC) in his work a few years ago. Modifying the firmware for using a non-inverting sensor is easy and is left as excercise for the reader Wink

Hope that this helps and is understandable Very Happy
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mathdon
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2022 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barf wrote:
1. If you use an open-collector sensor, a pull-up must be supplied externally. The Arduino can do this internally in the chip, by using INPUT_PULLUP as second argument to pinMode function. (For some reason, Graham does not trust this, but supplies an extra pull-up resistor himself.)

As I have said several times, this is not my project or my design. It is a result of a collaboration between three people: me, Tommy, and an Arduino forum member who wished to remain anonymous. The circuit is one that all three of us could agree on. The story of the pull-up resistor is that the Arduino forum member wanted to get the device to operate up to 100kHz as the original PIC design has been claimed to do so. Without the external pull-up it was found to work only up to around 60kHz, which is enough for our purposes but did not satisfy him. Tommy put an oscilloscope on it and wrote:

Quote:
I looked at the QSE signal output on an oscilloscape both with and without the 4.7K resistor. Without, the signal was shortened and rolled off at the top due to marginal pullup as our collaborator said. It works OK, but with the resistor it is full height and squared up nicely. I'm going to leave it in as he recommends.

So the three of us agreed to leave the resistor in the circuit.
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mathdon
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2022 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Robman wrote:
The trouble with Mouser is, the shipping costs are usually pretty high, so that $2 part would probably come with $10 shipping (though I didn't check what the current costs are), that's why I was trying to source something from ebay.

I did order the Nano and the kit, and I just got an email saying I can expect the kit on Feb 1, 2023 Very Happy

I thought the high shipping costs if I buy from them is because I am in the UK. I had assumed that since they and you are both in the US, they would be reasonable. I quite understand your reluctance. As for your kit, surely you can find a suitable kit that ships from the US? I can find one here in the UK that ships from the UK and will be delivered within 7 days.

I have ordered 10 OPL551 that should arrive tomorrow, so will be able to report on their performance. They are not OPL551-OC but from what Barf says, these should work.
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StephenR0



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2022 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got five TSMP58000 sensors from Digi-Key with $5 shipping with USPS. The total was $11.35 with tax. Another data point.
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mathdon
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2022 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mathdon wrote:
I have ordered 10 OPL551 that should arrive tomorrow, so will be able to report on their performance.

These have now arrived and I can confirm that the OPL551 works and behaves as a complete replacement for the QSE159, as it also has the same pinout. Like the QSE159 it only has a range of a few inches rather than the few feet of the TSMP58000, but as I have said before, I do not see this as significant, considering the way that an IR Widget is expected to be used. It has a transparent casing rather than the black one of the QSE159 but this does not seem to cause a problem. I am testing it in my study at night with the overhead light on, and even if I point the sensor at the light, IR signals are still decoded correctly. Its short range may even be an advantage in this regard.
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treoer



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2023 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it possible to use an arduino ready ir receiver? It just I already have it, may be I can desolder the sensor out. I believen its a 38KHz IR Infrared sensor, Forward Voltage: 1.5-1.6v, Forward Current: 60mA, 120mA peak for 10% Pulse width.

Last edited by treoer on Tue Mar 28, 2023 4:27 am; edited 2 times in total
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Barf
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2023 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No. A non-demodulating receiver is needed, this one is demodulating. "38kHz" means that.
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treoer



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2023 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barf wrote:
No. A non-demodulating receiver is needed, this one is demodulating. "38kHz" means that.

Thanks, I have ordered a QSE159, I see what you mean after reading that it senses up to 100kHz. I have the rest of the parts already apart from the Ceramic Capacitor which I am not sure if I have or not. If I don't does it have to be Ceramic type for decoupling purposes? Many thanks
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mathdon
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 28, 2023 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you haven't got the decoupling capacitor, just leave it out. It is unlikely to cause any problems. Most of my testing was done without one.
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treoer



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2023 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I received the QSE159 sensor but I was so stupid I look at the diagram in the pdf saw left of sensor lens is 5v and right is GND. The sensor got quite hot there is a small burnt mark at the back. It seem the photo is correct and the diagram is pin number is correct but it shows the lens is facing at the back. I check the spec sheet and confirms it is the other way around. I corrected it then it works, is the QSE159 sensor still good to use?
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mathdon
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2023 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think there is an error in the pdf. A circuit diagram is a wiring diagram only, not a layout template. The symbols for most electronic components bear no relation to what the components actually look like. I am not the author of the diagram, that was another member of the three-man team that designed the AIRWidget, but I don't consider the diagram to be in error or even misleading. It does not show the lens facing the wrong way as it is not a picture, though if you do regard it as such then it shows it with the leads pointing upward. It is my text description that you should have used to determine the lead layout, and that is unambiguous.

Now for your actual question. The QSE159 seems to be very robust and forgiving. I have carelessly connected one the wrong way round for a short time without ill effects. The author of the diagram in fact did so and did not realise it till the sensor was too hot to handle, and even that still worked. So since you say that after turning it round it is now working, I think you can safely say that it has come to no harm.
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Barf
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2023 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Fairchild data sheet for the QSE159 does contain a perspective drawing, the kind used in mechanical engineering. On this, for someone without a mechanical engineering background, it is not a priori clear exactly what the projections depict; if it is the component seen from above or from beneath. In this manner, I once managed to interpret the drawing incorrectly, and, yes, I electrocuted the sensor. Smelt badly; was bricked.

Yet another reason to buy Vishay, TSMP58000 or TSMP58138 instead: their data sheets have a 3D perspective drawing instead. Wink

You can also look at my photo in posting #4 in this thread; it should be clear which pin is connected to GND.

Last word: if the mishandled sensor works, it works. Otherwise dispose.
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Barf
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2023 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TSMP58000 is End-of-lifed and no longer available from Mouser. Replacement is called TSMP98000.
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