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Luxman TP-117
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n8nagel



Joined: 03 Jun 2018
Posts: 62

PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking the same but am not electronics knowledgeable enough to actually design the circuit, but looks like there are several simple options there. I guess there's no way around having to provide a 5V power supply though? I guess I could use an old USB wall charger plugged into switched power to make that happen yes?

I feel like I'm getting back on track here, hopefully I can get this done. Now I can't wait to leave work and confirm with the scope Smile

Dumb question - if I went with an IC inverter with a bypass cap as shown on the diagram, I'm assuming that I would tie the ring of both the input and output jacks to ground on the diagram? Just concerned because both the Luxman and the 5V power supply would have their own "ground" not sure if this would be an issue or not (most of my experience with electronics has to do with fire alarm systems actually, where we have to be really careful about different ground references)

Edit: if my assumptions are correct about this, I could also use an inverter as we are discussing to use a standard IR repeater to control the Luxman CDP through a cable correct?
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yaworski



Joined: 22 Jun 2014
Posts: 450
Location: Warsaw, Poland

PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ideal situation would be if you could somehow get the +5 v from the Luxman itself. But if it's not possible and you'd need to use external PSU, then the ground of both the Luxman and your extra power supply needs to be at the same level. This means that you'd need to connect the ground (or negative) cable from the power supply to the ground in the 3.5 mm jack. Only then the +5 v from the power supply would be at the same level as +5 v from the Luxman. There's usually nothing wrong with connecting grounds from different power sources together. But I'd make sure that the power supply is well filtered, maybe adding an extra cap between + and gnd from the PSU would be a good idea (in addition to the bypass cap, and with larger capacity).
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n8nagel



Joined: 03 Jun 2018
Posts: 62

PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was thinking of just using an old USB phone charger wall wart that way I could just build a little project box with a single gate inverter, two 3.5mm mono jacks, and a USB B female jack that way all the cables and such would be stuff I'd have in my junk box. I'm not sure how to get 5V from the Luxman unless there's an easy way to use the 5V that is coming out of the IR control jack without killing the signal.
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Barf
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Joined: 24 Oct 2008
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Oppo has a USB connector just to right of the IR in jack; you should be able to snarf supply voltage from that. For the inverter, I would use an optocoupler 4N35 or similar: connect anode and catode to the sender side (possibly a resistor in series, catode to ground, anode to signal in), the emitter to the receiver's (Oppo's) ground (IR in sleve), the collector to a resistor (say 1k) to the supply voltage AND the IR in tip. It has the advantage of guaranteeing a complete galvanic isolation. No chance for hum!

PS. I am the proud owner of am OPPO 93 since many years...
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n8nagel



Joined: 03 Jun 2018
Posts: 62

PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barf, that's a great idea, I completely forgot about the Oppo's USB connections. Thank you for catching that!

Edit: I'll have to check that there's 5V present on there during standby though; it's no problem if the box is powered down when the Luxman is powered down, but if it's powered down with the Oppo, I won't be able to turn it on using the remote.
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n8nagel



Joined: 03 Jun 2018
Posts: 62

PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK so here's the bad news. It looks like there is no carrier as the short pulses are about 0.5ms so a period of 1ms = 1000Hz so... what can I do now? Or am I just over my head?
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yaworski



Joined: 22 Jun 2014
Posts: 450
Location: Warsaw, Poland

PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So my first thought was correct and this is a demodulated signal. Can you post a picture of the waveform?

If it is demodulated then you "just" need to modulate it again :). There are probably multiple ways to do this. For example using a 555 timer or a microcontroller running some code.
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n8nagel



Joined: 03 Jun 2018
Posts: 62

PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yaworski wrote:
So my first thought was correct and this is a demodulated signal. Can you post a picture of the waveform?

If it is demodulated then you "just" need to modulate it again Smile. There are probably multiple ways to do this. For example using a 555 timer or a microcontroller running some code.


I can try... I'm using a "new" HP scope (probably "only" 20-30 years old and theoretically I should be able to do a screen cap, I just don't know what I'm doing because I'm a mechanical guy trying to muddle my way through learning electronics... I was so proud of myself when I managed to diagnose a failed op-amp in the preamp all by myself, but I did have a schematic and a list of voltages on various test points to help me with that) I'm wondering if maybe using the F-connector wouldn't be better as it is intended to run a IR blaster (RC-503) to control non-Luxman components; unfortunately I do not have an RC-503 nor can I find an instruction sheet or schematics for it. I do know the RC-503 uses 9V batteries per a picture of one that I found online so my suspicion is that that F-connector has "raw" IR output on it but is probably a current sink, but don't really know how I can test it and ensure that I don't blow stuff up.

HiFiEngine has the service manual with schematics but I can't seem to find the F-connector on the schematics... (the 3.5mm that we are talking about is labeled Serial In/Out)

I do want to thank you all for your patience as I'm sure if you actually know anything about electronics following this thread has to be painful for you Smile

So if I'm understanding this correctly, and please correct me if I'm mistaken, then the signal that a standard IR blaster or distribution module or the Oppo's hardwired connection would be looking for would be the inverse of the signal that I'm getting out of the 3.5mm connector, with the ~38kHz carrier left superimposed on it?
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n8nagel



Joined: 03 Jun 2018
Posts: 62

PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While in the process of selling my parts preamp and programming a remote for it I found that there was an error in the spreadsheet for the "Tape 2" functionality. The codes for Stop and Rewind are transposed for Tape 2 from what they are on Tape 1. I've verified this on both TP-117s. Will learn the codes from my one factory remote before reuploading as one last check. Apparently the upgrades were correct somehow but the spreadsheet was wrong. I will reupload as soon as I confirm with the remote.
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
Posts: 19080
Location: Chicago, IL

PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here the link to the file that Nate is referring to:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=25241
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n8nagel



Joined: 03 Jun 2018
Posts: 62

PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2018 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Verified that while it looks wrong, the OBCs for the tape decks are in fact different as I describe above. Files are now updated, if anyone else is using this.
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n8nagel



Joined: 03 Jun 2018
Posts: 62

PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2018 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Copy of post I just made to audiokarma if anyone finds this thread looking for info on using a TP-117 to its full capabilities:

So I gave up on trying to find a way to duplicate the factory RC-503 box and just bought one that showed up on A Certain Auction Site. I paid literally 3x for this stupid box than I did for the TP-117 itself, but hey, whaddayagonnado. I'm a stubborn cuss and would like this to operate as transparently as possible.

If anyone has any documentation of this thing, I would appreciate it. I know that at least an instruction sheet exists for the RC-50x accessories, but I have only seen them for sale on eBay, I have been unable to find a scan of one. My immediate question is this: the RC-503 works splendidly to control my Oppo BDP-95 (using the control cable - mini mono headphone cord - no less, not even the IR repeater, which is fantastic, that means that I don't have to put the RC-503 which is larger than a pack of cigarettes, somewhere in front of the Oppo, which is not practical as this is all sitting on a sideboard in the dining room. It also means that if I were going to build a "big" system with lots of source components, I could use off the shelf IR blaster bugs in the same manner, or multiple hardwired connections with an IR hub) but ONLY if I have the RC-501 connected. It will not pass a non-Luxman signal from the built in sensor on the front panel. I have the same behavior on both the working and semi-busted TP-117 units that I have. I would like to know if this is correct behavior for the unit; if it is, then that means that if I am using any non-Luxman source components, you would need TWO RC-501s (and of course the RC-503) to use Zone 2, and unfortunately, I only have one RC-501. If anyone who has used one of these tuner/pres over the years and/or has the documentation could tell me if this is normal behavior, or if there's a fault with both of my units, I would appreciate it. In the meantime I guess I am going to have to hope that another RC-501 shows up for sale.
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