Build a JP1.x/JP2 cable using an FTDI Serial Converter Cable

roadking00 · Post by **roadking00** » Mon Sep 15, 2014 9:43 pm

nejpski wrote:Actually the cable I purchased (with color reference) was slightly different.

See link below. [So the colors are based on this cable rather than the one referenced above for $8.54.....although the color crossreference MAY be the same.]

The cable I purchased (as noted above in my post) has single pin connector and I didnt bother putting them in a 2x3 connector....[Although now that TRANX has provided that link, I probably will.]

Just wanted to say thanks for the links and good luck with the purchases.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261101529602?ss ... 1438.l2649

First cable is $8.50 (current price discounted 20%) plus $1 shipping for first cable and free for each additional.

I think as difference between these 2 fleabay cables might be the LEDs.

[l RX and TX LEDs indicator in cable I used.] Apparently some people like to see the blinking lights. I must admit, my experience is like that of cythraul (in another thread). I built an old JP1 cable YEARS ago, and had not been back in SEVERAL (5-9 years). So this is just what I chose, and may not have the support of the true experts on this forum.

PS...Thanks rern (above) for "colorizing" my post!!

I bought the same cable and cannot for the life of me get it to recognize my remote? At first it was a no driver issue , now have the driver installed and just says "No remotes found" when I try to download from remote ?? RMIR is set on interface "JP1.X Serial" and NOT USB and still nothing but a couple red/grn blinking light as soon as I plug the cable in but thats it ?? Brand new JP1.3 remote and new batteries ... First time with JP1 remotes so VERY new to all this....

Any help is MUCH appreciated ....

roadking00 · Post by **roadking00** » Mon Sep 15, 2014 9:57 pm

3FG wrote:Please don't use the color of the wires as guide to how to hook up the cable, because the colors aren't standardized in any way. Also, the numbers nejpski gave are wire numbers which are unrelated to the JP1 6 pin connector pin numbers. Instead use the following list and information from your vendor to find the correct colors or signal names for your particular interface:
Code: Select all
JP1.3      --->         FTDI  Signal Name 
Pin      
1   --------------- Not connected
2   --------------- RTS
3   --------------- Ground
4   --------------- TXD
5   --------------- Not Connected
6   --------------- RXD
Anyway, don't attach either CTS or VCC. CTS can confuse the communication with the remote, and VCC (if it is +5 volts) can possibly damage the remote.

Finally be sure to not connect anything to pin 5 on the JP1 connector-- that can put the remote into Tool mode, and it will likely brick the remote.

Well Dang, I wish I would have found this sooner....I hope I didnt "Brick" this brand new remote....I did not realize the #'s in past posts were just wire #'s and not the remote pin #'s ....I did at a time or 2 have pin 5 connected to my White wire which is my "RXD" on this cable....Then I tried it the correct way with pin 1 & 5 empty and nothing still?? Can only assume I ruined the remote ??

After I unplugged from the remotes JP1 conn and pulled the batteries and then replaced them I have backlight on the remote , is there a quick easy way to tell if its bricked or not ?

Update !!
Had a brain F__T , I'm at work trying to get this set up on my laptop and just realized I can try to program my remote to the TV here (yep at work TV) by the old fashion way with codes and blinks manually set up from the remote itself.....Well it still works so hopefully this will be a good thing and still be able to access it (eventually) with the cable and tweak around with JP1 in the near future.....Done for the night right now though until I read a bit more and see where I messed up and possibly missed a step ?

Update 2

OK, I read through the TROUBLESHOOTING A USB JP1.2/3 INTERFACE PDF file and ran through the interface test and everything works up to the point I actually do the test, the test just keeps on going ,never stops, kept trying a few times and nothing, the remote works before and after the test every-time, even while hooked up to my cable correctly (as far as I can tell) check device manage and no COM Ports are listed , when I connect to the PC the "USB Serial Converter" shows up at the bottom of the list under USB controllers but that's about it, no com ports at all?

I'm done for now (eyes hurt ,headache from reading and hitting head on table), any help is definitely appreciated... Not getting off to a great start with JP1 as of yet but not giving up yet.....

roadking00 · Post by **roadking00** » Wed Sep 17, 2014 2:32 am

roadking00 wrote:
3FG wrote:Please don't use the color of the wires as guide to how to hook up the cable, because the colors aren't standardized in any way. Also, the numbers nejpski gave are wire numbers which are unrelated to the JP1 6 pin connector pin numbers. Instead use the following list and information from your vendor to find the correct colors or signal names for your particular interface:
Code: Select all
JP1.3      --->         FTDI  Signal Name 
Pin      
1   --------------- Not connected
2   --------------- RTS
3   --------------- Ground
4   --------------- TXD
5   --------------- Not Connected
6   --------------- RXD
Anyway, don't attach either CTS or VCC. CTS can confuse the communication with the remote, and VCC (if it is +5 volts) can possibly damage the remote.

Finally be sure to not connect anything to pin 5 on the JP1 connector-- that can put the remote into Tool mode, and it will likely brick the remote.
Well Dang, I wish I would have found this sooner....I hope I didnt "Brick" this brand new remote....I did not realize the #'s in past posts were just wire #'s and not the remote pin #'s ....I did at a time or 2 have pin 5 connected to my White wire which is my "RXD" on this cable....Then I tried it the correct way with pin 1 & 5 empty and nothing still?? Can only assume I ruined the remote ??

After I unplugged from the remotes JP1 conn and pulled the batteries and then replaced them I have backlight on the remote , is there a quick easy way to tell if its bricked or not ?

Update !!
Had a brain F__T , I'm at work trying to get this set up on my laptop and just realized I can try to program my remote to the TV here (yep at work TV) by the old fashion way with codes and blinks manually set up from the remote itself.....Well it still works so hopefully this will be a good thing and still be able to access it (eventually) with the cable and tweak around with JP1 in the near future.....Done for the night right now though until I read a bit more and see where I messed up and possibly missed a step ?

Update 2

OK, I read through the TROUBLESHOOTING A USB JP1.2/3 INTERFACE PDF file and ran through the interface test and everything works up to the point I actually do the test, the test just keeps on going ,never stops, kept trying a few times and nothing, the remote works before and after the test every-time, even while hooked up to my cable correctly (as far as I can tell) check device manage and no COM Ports are listed , when I connect to the PC the "USB Serial Converter" shows up at the bottom of the list under USB controllers but that's about it, no com ports at all?

I'm done for now (eyes hurt ,headache from reading and hitting head on table), any help is definitely appreciated... Not getting off to a great start with JP1 as of yet but not giving up yet.....

Hopefully someone can help me out getting RM working on my laptop (if even possible?) This is the cable I've purchased from ebay , http://www.ebay.com/itm/261101529602?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT And I have Windows 7 Ultimate on my HP Pavilion G71-340US laptop, just learning the tech part of things and I do not see a "COM Port" at all in my device manager list ?? Possibly the reason I cant communicate with this cable ?I had the pins hooked up just as the chart above shows that "3FG"inserted..

Any help and direction is much appreciated....

Here is a picture of the JP1.3 connection point on my Inteset INT-422 remote.

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:40 am

So this is the same cable as in this post by Revwillie and should have the same pinout, unless the colors have changed from the description: 2 Yellow, 3 Black, 4 Green, 6 White.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... 684#108684

Download and install the drivers linked in the ebay listing (I gave the seller that link when I bought my first cable from him).

That should at least get the COM port going. Since this is a new model to us, you won't be able to program it with Remote Master until we get some more data from you. Once you confirm the COM port is working, I'll PM you further instructions.

roadking00 · Post by **roadking00** » Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:28 pm

mdavej wrote:So this is the same cable as in this post by Revwillie and should have the same pinout, unless the colors have changed from the description: 2 Yellow, 3 Black, 4 Green, 6 White.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... 684#108684

Download and install the drivers linked in the ebay listing (I gave the seller that link when I bought my first cable from him).

That should at least get the COM port going. Since this is a new model to us, you won't be able to program it with Remote Master until we get some more data from you. Once you confirm the COM port is working, I'll PM you further instructions.

Sounds good, I am almost positive I did this already the other night but may have done it wrong, I have the remote and cable at work and will give it another slow detailed try tonight.
And yes that was the colors and pin configuration I have and used the last time....hopefully its just a driver install issue.
Thanks

3FG · Post by **3FG** » Wed Sep 17, 2014 1:42 pm

All of our software communicates with JP1.2 and newer remotes via COM port. If Device Manager doesn't show a defined COM port associated with your interface cable, there is no chance that the interface will be recognized by RMIR or by RealTerm.

roadking00 · Post by **roadking00** » Wed Sep 17, 2014 5:36 pm

mdavej wrote:So this is the same cable as in this post by Revwillie and should have the same pinout, unless the colors have changed from the description: 2 Yellow, 3 Black, 4 Green, 6 White.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewt ... 684#108684

Download and install the drivers linked in the ebay listing (I gave the seller that link when I bought my first cable from him).

That should at least get the COM port going. Since this is a new model to us, you won't be able to program it with Remote Master until we get some more data from you. Once you confirm the COM port is working, I'll PM you further instructions.

OK Dave, I got it figured out now, I have the com port recognition and correct drivers installed, I tried to download from remote (and it is communicating) but I get this Message now "No RDF matches signature starting 3494" ?? And yes I checked the RDF folder and the new files you sent me are showing up in the folder....I'm assuming there is more to do to get this in the system ??

Update
Just Opened RM and the new remote is now in the drop down list and the jpg file works as well, can see the remote under the layout tab

Getting there

roadking00 · Post by **roadking00** » Wed Sep 17, 2014 5:38 pm

3FG wrote:All of our software communicates with JP1.2 and newer remotes via COM port. If Device Manager doesn't show a defined COM port associated with your interface cable, there is no chance that the interface will be recognized by RMIR or by RealTerm.

Thanks 3FG, looks like I am getting somewhere now, at least I have the com port now and my PC is communicating with this new remote (or at least trying to)

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Wed Sep 17, 2014 6:36 pm

roadking, check your PMs.

slr_65 · Post by **slr_65** » Sat Oct 04, 2014 5:01 pm

Hi Guys,

I have a Jp1.2/3 usb cable that's 2-3 years old. I used to use it on an XP machine.

Recently I needed to upgrade the programming in my remote so I grabbed the cable and tried to use it on my Win7 laptop.

It would try to work, flash the red/green lights, even blink the remote led occasionally but then kept giving remote not found errors.

I finally found it seemed to be a bad 6 pin socket problem as i could push down on the cable and got it to work and program my remote.

I cut the shrink tube off the 6 pin connector but underneath it there was some white putty stuff. I tried to carefully whittle away the white stuff and it appeared the wires went like this (viewed from the top as it would plug into the remote):

1 - No connection
2 - White
3 - Black
4 - Green
5 - No Connection
6 - Red

I had some single wire jumpers with female sockets that I use when I play with my Arduino and I soldered them onto the wires and carefully plugged them in.

Now it doesn't work at all. It flashes the red led on the usb dongle, but that's it. No green flashes and no led blinking on the remote.

I'm assuming I got the wiring wrong, does anyone know what color wires should go to which pins?

BTW, I didn't need to load drivers for the usb dongle, it's found it as a FTDI and it does find a com port on port 3 when it's plugged in...and it DID work with the original 6 pin plug if I held down on it, got a remote read and a new program uploaded, so I'm pretty sure it was just a back plug and now I don't know how to wire in the new one.

Thanks!

Steve

gentzel · Post by **gentzel** » Sat Oct 04, 2014 5:26 pm

slr_65 wrote:I'm assuming I got the wiring wrong, does anyone know what color wires should go to which pins?

As observed by 3FG just a few posts back:

3FG wrote:Please don't use the color of the wires as guide to how to hook up the cable, because the colors aren't standardized in any way.

So unfortunately there's no way to know for sure what the color layout should be for your cable. The good news is that you have the right "no connection" locations (1 & 5) and black is likely in the right place, so that only gives you three wires to play with and six possible arrangements to try.

I'd try swapping white & red as a first stab, but that's little more than a guess.

3FG · Post by **3FG** » Sat Oct 04, 2014 7:36 pm

If you have a voltmeter, then you can use Tommy's instructions and Realterm to unambiguously identify the ground wire and the RTS wire. That would be the safest thing to do, since it avoids the possibility of putting a negative voltage on one of the JP1 pins. After plugging in the USB cable, RTS, TXD, and RXD should all have positive voltage with respect to ground. Once you've got the ground wire identified, use the instructions to clear and set RTS. That will identify the RTS wire. Figuring out RXD and TXD is more difficult, but usually RXD will show a half volt less voltage than RTS. You can also sometimes identify TXD by setting the voltmeter to AC and using RMIR to try a download, The TXD line may show a brief burst of AC voltage.

slr_65 · Post by **slr_65** » Sat Oct 04, 2014 8:29 pm

Thanks guys!

I thought I might be able to take a short cut - I took the clear shrink wrap off the usb dongle end and popped the case apart, I was hoping the circuit board connections would be labeled...they are, the red wire is hooked to the R connection, the green to the G, the black to the B and the white to the W! LOL! Yeah, that helped!

I'll probably just order a cable as i'm not up to playing...long story, but I woke up one morning and had lost about 80% of the vision in my right eye and they don't know why - it's a blood circulation issue in that eye, but the cause of that is unknown. On top of it I already had poor vision due to a corneal disease in both of them. I'm down to one eye and it's got poor vision...trying to solder was an adventure, poor depth perception doesn't lead to good solder joints!

I'm thinking the cable in the first post and just re-arranging the leads is the easiest way for me to go.

Thanks guys,

Steve

slr_65 · Post by **slr_65** » Sat Oct 04, 2014 10:24 pm

Looked the chip up and got a pin out of it, from what I can see for traces on the pcb and confirm with an ohm meter, it appears I was right for the pin hookups.

The problem seems to be that my white wire doesn't have continuity from the pcb to the end...GRRR! The cable looks looks good with no abrasions, and I've cut the remote end off, so I'm thinking the problem is in the usb dongle end.

I'm going to give a shot at soldering my Arduino jumpers directly to the pcb...wish me luck, this will be fun with my vision! I'll report back how it went.

Steve

slr_65 · Post by **slr_65** » Sat Oct 04, 2014 10:57 pm

Bingo! It's not pretty and it's a pain to plug individual wires in, BUT IT WORKS!

It must've had a wire break up at the dongle end. I can get by this way, but I'd like to find a cheap 2x3 female and get a more proper cord back on the thing.

Thanks guys!

Steve

(wink since I'm one eyed these days!)

Update (I'm not really up to playing, but yet old habits die hard...and just take me longer these days!): I cut six inches off both ends and then bared the leads and I still have no continuity on the white wire, so it must've broke somewhere in the middle, but again, no kinks, abrasions, etc.. Oh well, it's sorted and I'm ready for my next remote upgrade.