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Build a JP1.x/JP2 cable using an FTDI Serial Converter Cable
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2devnull



Joined: 06 Dec 2005
Posts: 36

PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mdavej wrote:
Yes, any JP1 EEPROM cable or your Nokia cable plus a JP1 EEPROM adapter like this: http://www.diygadget.com/jp1-1-1-1-2-1-3-cables/jp1-2-1-3-to-jp1-adapter.html

You said you soldered the pins, but you also have to solder in an EEPROM chip. Have you done that as well? If not, I'd advise you just get a JP1.3 remote.


Yes, sorry....have the chip also soldered in. Which Nokia cable will work?
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mdavej
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Joined: 08 Oct 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sorry, I thought you were asking about the Nokia cable right above your initial post. I would not recommend that. I would recommend the FTDI cable in nejpski's post: http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=108649#108649

You will also have to buy the JP1 EEPROM adapter I linked.

That's one option. There are others. If you still have a PC with a parallel port, you can make a simple JP1 EEPROM cable for just a few dollars in parts from Radio Shack. Or you can buy an old USB JP1 EEPROM cable.

But getting back to your original question, when you ask will "this" work, what exactly is "this"?
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2devnull



Joined: 06 Dec 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mdavej wrote:
I'm sorry, I thought you were asking about the Nokia cable right above your initial post. I would not recommend that. I would recommend the FTDI cable in nejpski's post: http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=108649#108649

You will also have to buy the JP1 EEPROM adapter I linked.

That's one option. There are others. If you still have a PC with a parallel port, you can make a simple JP1 EEPROM cable for just a few dollars in parts from Radio Shack. Or you can buy an old USB JP1 EEPROM cable.

But getting back to your original question, when you ask will "this" work, what exactly is "this"?


Sorry, I was not clear either. I meant if the cable discussed in this thread will work. I still have computers with Parallel ports but not clear what parts are needed to build one as I was not able to find a retailer selling one at a reasonable cost.
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mdavej
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Parallel is by far the cheapest option, no additional JP1 EEPROM adapter required. Here how:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/files/interfaces/SimpleRev5.pdf

The risk is it won't work on a new computer since parallel is obsolete.
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2devnull



Joined: 06 Dec 2005
Posts: 36

PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mdavej wrote:
Parallel is by far the cheapest option, no additional JP1 EEPROM adapter required. Here how:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/files/interfaces/SimpleRev5.pdf

The risk is it won't work on a new computer since parallel is obsolete.


I got the parts from RS and the IDC head from eBay. Have a DB25 cable with the solder ends already.

BTW - there are PCI parallel ports for reasonable cost. I had bought one for an older fax/printer that I have now upgraded so perhaps will swap it to a new computer.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815166005

Has anyone managed to run the required tools like IR.exe etc in a VM of Windows 7?
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bowlerj



Joined: 08 Aug 2003
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Appreciate all the info in this thread.

nejpski's ebay seller still lists the same item. Ordered it for $8.65 shipped. Also got the DIYgadget JP1.2/1.3 to JP1 adapter.

Came out to near the same price as adding a parallel port to a PC and gives me more flexibility to jump between PC's.
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Ken S



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 17
Location: Texas

PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 12:49 pm    Post subject: Visit TxSat Electronics Web Site !! Reply with quote

We have our new JPX Flash and JP1 EEPROM everyone has been waiting for...both of our new products are using the newest FTDI technology....visit our web site for more information !!

Ken Stovall
Owner of TxSat Electronics

www.txsat.net
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Please visit our web site at: txsat.net
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unclemiltie
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW - I have no idea if this will work, I haven't tried it yet but the Arduino development boards with serial interfaces look an awful lot like the JP1.x serial cables, just a different connector.

I had to buy one to load up an Arduino board and got this one, it's an FTDI serial-USB adapter in the USB plug with a 6-pin connector on the end. I was thinking of wiring up an adapter to see if it would work with my remotes. The only difference appears that the wire colors are different from Tommy's document.

Anyway, they're cheap here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6pin-FTDI-FT232RL-USB-to-Serial-adapter-module-USB-TO-TTL-RS232-Arduino-Cable-/400356015296?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d3713fcc0
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Dilligaf



Joined: 05 Aug 2003
Posts: 79
Location: Michigan

PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That will work, just cut the connector into 2 3-way connectors and glue them back to back and pin out the wires to the right locations
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unclemiltie
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea, but I want to use it for my Arduino boards too.

I think I'll just make an adapter, should be pretty easy
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Tiku



Joined: 11 Mar 2014
Posts: 55

PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From page 4
@cauer29
Quote:
It would be best to put some series resistance in the cable's Tx and RTS lines to limit the current flow into the remote's ESD protection structures. 330 or 470 ohms should limit the current sufficiently without hurting the rise/fall times on the 38.4K baud serial baud rate.


I have tried with 330 and also with 470 ohms resistance, but i dont see any minute drop in the voltage,its still showing 5v in Tx,RTS. can anybody please guide me please, i just soldered the resistance straight in-between the output of Tx and the green cable, is it right?
Thanks.
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cauer29



Joined: 03 Feb 2010
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tiku wrote:
From page 4
@cauer29
Quote:
It would be best to put some series resistance in the cable's Tx and RTS lines to limit the current flow into the remote's ESD protection structures. 330 or 470 ohms should limit the current sufficiently without hurting the rise/fall times on the 38.4K baud serial baud rate.


I have tried with 330 and also with 470 ohms resistance, but i dont see any minute drop in the voltage,its still showing 5v in Tx,RTS. can anybody please guide me please, i just soldered the resistance straight in-between the output of Tx and the green cable, is it right?
Thanks.


You won't see any voltage drop unless the cable is connected to the remote. In that case, the series resistors will show a voltage drop if the chip in the remote is clamping to its 3.0 or 3.3V supply. It would probably still work without the series resistors, but it does put a big load on the Tx and RTS drivers in the USB serial converter IC and it also pumps a lot of current into the ESD clamp structures in the remote's chip.
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gentzel



Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Posts: 40

PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 2:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a quick note about picking an eBay FTDI serial cable.

I just happened to notice that the auction listing that many of us have used since neipski first posted it back on 1/26/2013 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261101529602) has changed the description from 3.3V to 5V.

Always check the listing before purchasing; a seller can keep the same auction open for years but change the item & description on you. Don't just click on a link others have used and assume it's good; read carefully first.
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roadking00



Joined: 03 Sep 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Charlotte, NC Area

PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rern wrote:
This FTDI FT232RL USB to Serial adapter is one of the cheapest, $8.54 + free shipping, on ebay that works just fine.
The actual color of wires are not as shown but nejpski has his research:
nejpski wrote:
Wire Number \ USE \ OLD COLOR \ NEW COLOR

[1] Ground \ Black \ BLACK

[2] CTS \ Brown \ BLUE (Not connected)

[3] VCC \ Red \ RED (Not connected) 5V

[4] TXD \ Orange \ GREEN

[5] RXD \ Yellow \ WHITE

[6] RTS \ Green \ YELLOW

And with this 2x3 connector housing, 50 pieces for $3.75 + free shipping, you are good to go.


OK , So correct me if Im wrong, the red and blue wires are not used at all for JP1.3 remotes and I need to eliminate the wires from those 2 pin connectors but utilize the 2 empty connectors just to assemble a more rigid 2x3 connector with super glue? Or can I just leave the wires there and it wont effect anything ??
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3FG
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please don't use the color of the wires as guide to how to hook up the cable, because the colors aren't standardized in any way. Also, the numbers nejpski gave are wire numbers which are unrelated to the JP1 6 pin connector pin numbers. Instead use the following list and information from your vendor to find the correct colors or signal names for your particular interface:
Code:
JP1.3      --->         FTDI  Signal Name
Pin     
1   --------------- Not connected
2   --------------- RTS
3   --------------- Ground
4   --------------- TXD
5   --------------- Not Connected
6   --------------- RXD
Anyway, don't attach either CTS or VCC. CTS can confuse the communication with the remote, and VCC (if it is +5 volts) can possibly damage the remote.

Finally be sure to not connect anything to pin 5 on the JP1 connector-- that can put the remote into Tool mode, and it will likely brick the remote.
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