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JP1 Simple Interface To Programme JP1.2/3 Remote?

 
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Tiku



Joined: 11 Mar 2014
Posts: 103

                    
PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 2:56 am    Post subject: JP1 Simple Interface To Programme JP1.2/3 Remote? Reply with quote

Hi, i have succesfuuly programmed my URC-7541/44 Remote with JP1 Simple Interface, now can any friend tell me is it possible to programme JP1.3 Remote with JP1 Interface with some modification in the Jack like changing pin connections or using jp1 adapter converter.
Here is my another Remote:-




There is a thread here regarding same remote.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11607
Thanks.


Last edited by Tiku on Wed Apr 02, 2014 8:08 am; edited 1 time in total
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mdavej
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, it isn't. Communication protocol is completely different. So it isn't a matter of moving some pins around. You need something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330809610323
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Tiku



Joined: 11 Mar 2014
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks mdavej for making it clear,now regarding TTL Cable its very hard to find CA-42 Cable in our local market, i tried very hard but found DKU-5 Instead, available at one shop only, he hardly had few pieces and were from the same factory, so i had no other choice than to buy one, after carefully cutting it i found only three wires soldered, TX,RX & GND, (GND Was shorted also) Dont know why? adding more to my problem it does not have a RTS Pad on the PCB Circuit, Now Can you please tell me or guide me whether it is possible to Detect RTS Connection, on the circuit with the help of Multimeter or By Hyper Terminal. I Managed to find XP Driver and it has ARK 3116 Chip Inside & in the Device manager its showing USB-UART, Driver Working Properly.Here are the Pics:-




Thanks.
here is the data sheet of the chip:-
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mdavej
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, I don't know how you could connect the RTS. The cable I linked ships worldwide and is known to work.
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3FG
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Joined: 19 May 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should be able to use this write up by Tommy Tyler and a voltmeter to see which pin is affected by setting/clearing RTS. RealTerm is much more powerful than HyperTerminal.
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mdavej
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just noticed you said CA-42. I'm not recommending that at all. I'm recommending an FTDI.
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Tiku



Joined: 11 Mar 2014
Posts: 103

                    
PostPosted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mdavej wrote:
I just noticed you said CA-42. I'm not recommending that at all. I'm recommending an FTDI.


FTDI is impossible to find here and buying on net is costly for me,I thought that i may be able to find CA-42 as there are many shops which are still selling outdated old models cell phone cables but unfortunately i could not found either original or cheap copy of CA-42,& I also know that not all the CA-42 Cables works.
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Tiku



Joined: 11 Mar 2014
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

3FG wrote:
You should be able to use this write up by Tommy Tyler and a voltmeter to see which pin is affected by setting/clearing RTS. RealTerm is much more powerful than HyperTerminal.


Ok, 3FG, I've been half way through, can you please guide me how to test with voltmeter, i have a simple analog voltmeter it only has Ohms & Volts,do i have to test on Ohms or Volt? Thanks.
Here's the screenshot of my Device Manager & Realterm:-



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3FG
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First, make sure that you don't inadvertently let the voltmeter probe tips short out two adjacent traces. You could damage the IC by doing that.

To measure RTS, TXD, or RXD, use the volts function. If instead you want to check if two spots on the PCB are connected to each other, use the ohmmeter function. The two spots are connected if the resistance is less than a few ohms.

Before looking for RTS, first check that you can measure a change in voltage. Use the voltmeter to measure between GND and TXD. When SetBreak has been clicked, you should measure nearly 0 volts. When ClearBreak has been clicked, the voltage should be 3.3 or 5 volts. Once that is working, you can search for RTS. Note that RTS_N is pin 6 on the ARK3116, while TXD is 4 and RXD is 8. So there is a pretty good chance that the trace from RTS is located close to the traces for TXD and RXD. It probably is also close to VPP. Try midway between C3 and U2, or near VPP on the other side of the board. The green coating on the PCB is insulating, so you'll need to carefully scrape off a small patch at each place you want to test. RTS_N should have near zero voltage to GND when it is set, and 3.3/5 volts when set.

It isn't obvious that the RTS pin of the IC has any trace connected to it, but it still worth a try. If you do find RTS and are hooking up to the remote, make sure that you connect TXD to pin 4 of the JP1 connector, and RXD to pin 6. GND goes to pin 3, and RTS_N to pin 2
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Tiku



Joined: 11 Mar 2014
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok,i checked the GND & TXD By Clicking Setbreak & Clearbreak,but there is no change in the voltage. its showing 3.3 not dropping. tried with different Baudrate, 57600, 19200 check marked ANSI,HALFDUPLEX,SCROLLBACK also tried the RTS Which i think is near VPP see the pic but there is no change over there also its showing fix Volts 3.3.At Present RXD.TXD,3.3 and the trace near VPP Which i scrape all showing 3.3 Volts, not dropping to zero, now what to do?
Thanks.
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StephenR0



Joined: 12 Feb 2007
Posts: 109
Location: Iowa, US

                    
PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know, that picture is so detailed, you can see what look like cold solder joints on the crystal. I'd get out my soldering iron and heat up some of these connections.
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Tiku



Joined: 11 Mar 2014
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I re-soldered on both sides of the crystal, but the result is same, no changes in the voltage. i have also tried different USB Ports, but no luck,
i want to know how it changes voltage via terminal because as soon as the USB is plugged in it takes 5 volt from the usb and converts into 3.3, the Realterm Exe. comes later, but the DKU-5 PCB is constantly taking current from the usb.
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Tiku



Joined: 11 Mar 2014
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

New development i shorted the GND AND RI which was the original position
when removed from hard mold and then i get CTS Green on the Realterm,
is it necessary to short? I checked again but still no drop in voltage. Fix on 3.3v.
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3FG
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With a FTDI based interface, setting/clearing RTS has no effect on the CTS line. I wouldn't expect it to, because CTS and RTS are two different signals.

We know that some Prolific chips aren't capable of sending break, and others should be able to send break but apparently the supplied drivers don't support it.

According to posts describing custom built Linux drivers for the ARK3116, it is capable of sending break. But it isn't obvious that standard drivers have this capability. So it may be worth trying to see if you can detect any activity on the TXD line. I used a digital voltmeter to look at TXD/GND while sending a long string of ASCII characters. The voltmeter (set to DC) shows a small dip from 5 (3.3 in your case) volts whiel the transmit is occurring. If the voltmeter is set to AC, an even bigger change from zero is seen. If you can see any change in the voltmeter when transmitting, it implies that TXD is working, but the break signal is not implemented. JP1.2 and JP1.3 flash remotes require a functioning break capability.
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Tiku



Joined: 11 Mar 2014
Posts: 103

                    
PostPosted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, i checked with A voltmeter set to AC, not even a minute drop in the voltage,the needle was little higher than on DC.
Anyways i then soldered the scraped patch with the negative (Black) Test probe of voltmeter to check whether it is shorted to any of the pads on the circuit, i am attaching the pics with the colored patched which were Less Than Zero Ohms (Shorted) to the Scraped patch, what do you think is it RTS Or DTS? or None of Them.

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