Bush HD Set-Top Box DFTA13HDSIL

[digital_silence]

1. Device: Bush DFTA13HDSIL
2. Type of device: High-Def Digital STB
3. Year: ?? (2007 ?)
4. JP1/UEI Remote model: URC-8811 / 8910 / Comcast 1067Bx3
5. Do you have a JP1 cable? Yes
6. Still have original remote? No
7. Checked the file section? Yes (see item (a) below)
8. Checked Pronto file section (at R/C)? Yes (no listings for Bush brand)
9. Partially working setup code? No
10. Learning remote question? n/a
11. Have you tried the JP1 Lookup Tool? Yes (see item (b) below)


(a) Tried all four available upgrades from files section - none worked.

(b) Lookup tool search for BUSH brand hits plenty of protocols/devices all over the shop - need an expert advice/guidance before I start trying all of them one by one.
My concern here is that even if the protocol/device is correct in one of the Lookup tool listing, I still can miss that due to wrong set of OBCs.

Is there a way to find if the protocol is correct even though the transmitted code does not make a device to do anything?

Thanks.

[eferz]

1. Device: Bush DFTA13HDSIL
4. JP1/UEI Remote model: URC-8811 / 8910 / Comcast 1067Bx3
(b) Lookup tool search for BUSH brand hits plenty of protocols/devices all over the shop - need an expert advice/guidance before I start trying all of them one by one.

Recorded the IR signals with the JP1 tools to create the respective files. I hope it helps.

• ICT file: http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=10277
• RMDU file: http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=10279

My concern here is that even if the protocol/device is correct in one of the Lookup tool listing, I still can miss that due to wrong set of OBCs.

Is there a way to find if the protocol is correct even though the transmitted code does not make a device to do anything?

Well, even if you got all the parameters of the protocol set up correctly, you still have a 1 in 256 chance (if it uses a second OBC 1 in 65536) for the individual key to do nothing. That's why when people are fishing for discrete commands, they'll increase the odds by programming multiple functions and key assignments. In fact, they may even use more than one device profile and every single assignable button during their search expedition.

The only reliable way to determine all correct parameters is to use your learning remotes or an IR widget, and let the JP1 tools decipher the signal. If it can that is. A good habit to get into, is to back up all your OEM remotes with the JP1 tools and upload it to our File Section. Not only will you be helping to increase the community's available resources, but you'll have an offsite backup facility to retrieve the data in case of catastrophic remote failure.

[digital_silence]

Just got around to trying the upgrade above - works a treat, thanks a lot!

Just a minor remark: Both files you have uploaded are missing a letter "T" in their names: DFTA13HDSIL.

The only reliable way to determine all correct parameters is to use your learning remotes or an IR widget, and let the JP1 tools decipher the signal.

That's if you have the original remote. I didn't in this case.

A good habit to get into, is to back up all your OEM remotes with the JP1 tools and upload it to our File Section.

Good point, but again, I am not a typical case user here - all electronic devices around my house are living their second lives after I bought them defunct and fixed 'em... none came with the original remote, so all my RCs are universal JP1-type ones, "stuffed" with the upgrades from this forum... :-)

Thanks again for your prompt help.

[eferz]

Just a minor remark: Both files you have uploaded are missing a letter "T" in their names: DFTA13HDSIL.

Thanks for pointing that out. I've fixed both the file names as far as the File Section is concerned. That will make it easier for people to find it if it spelled appropriately.

That's if you have the original remote. I didn't in this case.

Yeah, I figured that from your form, "Still have original remote? No". That's why I answered your question in two paragraphs. You have to remember that controlling a device with an IR remote is a one way communication process. So, unless there's some sort of response then there's no way to tell if any part of the IR signal is correct.

Good point, but again, I am not a typical case user here - all electronic devices around my house are living their second lives after I bought them defunct and fixed 'em... none came with the original remote, so all my RCs are universal JP1-type ones, "stuffed" with the upgrades from this forum...

I've also gathered that from your other posts. Especially that entertaining one that I still think could be made into a John Woo / Tom Cruise movie.

Just got around to trying the upgrade above - works a treat, thanks a lot!

Thanks again for your prompt help.

You're welcome. Glad to help and thank you very much for the feedback!